Which heat gun for stripping paint?

[Simon89]

Looking for a suitable heat gun for stripping paint from a guitar body.

I think I need something around 2000W but that doesn’t particularly narrow down the price.

For £21.99 I can get a 2000w Titan from screwfix but the reviews seem to be largely 5* or 1*
I’d rather buy something they will last beyond the 2 year warranty but want to keep costs low.

thanks

 

[Droogs]

I've had an earlex for about 20 years and it's is still going strong

 

[mikej460]

I've got the Titan and it's excellent

 

[--Tom--]

I’ve got the Dewalt and had no issues, they’re simple things. So long as they don’t overheat and cutout can’t see what would make a “bad” one.

 

[cowtown_eric]

card scraper does a gentler job and you don't risk discolouring wood from a heat gun

Eric

 

[mrpercysnodgrass]

I have owned many heat guns and tried cheap ones which are generally okay especially if they are not going to get a great deal of use. I have had two bosch guns in the past, both lasted three or four years of almost daily use. I have now had the Dewalt gun for about three years, it is by far the best heat gun I have owned, it sits well in the hand with a well positioned on/off switch and a great feature for me is the stand that unfolds from the handle enabling the gun to be stood freehand on the bench if both hands are needed to hold something above the heat.
I would however join Eric and question why you would want to strip a guitar with a heat gun! I think it is the last thing I would consider for a job like that.

 

[clogs]

my Bosch heat gun has got to be 15 years old and it was bought used....
still works a treat.....def would buy another....

 

[JoeSheffer]

I've got a blue one. Just buy one.

 

[Simon89]

Thanks for the advise, the Titan it is

 

[BillK]

Be careful if the body is multi-piece, I've seen more than one where a join was opened up by heat gun, and singed etc (guitar builder/repair person). That said I've had a Silverline for must be 10 years or more, it refuses to die despite the super cheap price.

 

[Sideways]

Bought a Bosch model with variable heat and a display.
I use it regularly, most often for heat shrink sleeving electrical cables. Very happy with it.

 

[julianf]

I've got an old black and decker that I acquired off my old man. Its one of the blue era. I reckon early 80s.

It still works fine but, as of late, has started spraying out fine dust from the element supports decaying.

I fear it could well be aesbestos and have shelved it, and planning the purchase of a new one. Which certainly won't last 40 years, that's for sure : (

 

[Ollie78]

Any will do, but I prefer to use a Bahco carbide scraper if I can.

I only use a heat gun when its really caked on thick. Wear a proper carbon filter mask, I got complacent about it and ended up going over the safe blood lead level, had to have 2 weeks off work and another test before returning, I know others with much worse levels, mine went down to normal but lead poisoning is no joke.

Also try infra red it works well, heats the wood so the paint gets hot from the back.

Ollie

 

[Tuna808]

What type of guitar is it?

 

[sometimewoodworker]

Be careful if the body is multi-piece, I've seen more than one where a join was opened up by heat gun, and singed etc (guitar builder/repair person). That said I've had a Silverline for must be 10 years or more, it refuses to die despite the super cheap price.

Since quality instruments will use hide glue for exactly the purpose of being able to take them apart for repair/maintenance along with shellac finishes for precisely the reason that they do not need heat to strip or refresh it’s not surprising that you had a joint open by heat as that is exactly what they are designed to do.

 

[BillK]

It's true hide glue is sometimes used in some places on electrics but not commonly, much more so on acoustics. It isn't really an indicator of quality, most smaller bespoke electric builders use Titebond 1 or similar.
An electric solid body is often 2 pieces or more. Fender are commonly 3-piece, and with different makes you can find more than that. These you really don't want to come apart. Top is 2-piece, middle is three.
Like these -

Sometimes you get lucky and the topcoat will peel easily with heat, usually when it's not so well adhered to the sealer. Some sealers out there are insanely hard and top coats can come away almost in sheets. Other times it's more of a fight and then you get dangers of overheating and opening out a body join.
The other thing is people dig away trying to make the paint peel off and mark up the body, especially edges & roundovers. But they can save time if you're careful.

 

[gregmcateer]

I've got an old black and decker that I acquired off my old man. Its one of the blue era. I reckon early 80s.

It still works fine but, as of late, has started spraying out fine dust from the element supports decaying.

I fear it could well be aesbestos and have shelved it, and planning the purchase of a new one. Which certainly won't last 40 years, that's for sure : (

Wise move, despite the new one not having any chance of lasting as long.

Love the way you've "shelved it" rather than bin it, just in case?... Man after my own heart