Which Glue Do You Use

[maltrout512]

I use a range of glues in the workshop and it would be interesting to know what others use.

The second part of this post is, When you have had a dry fit, made any minor adjustments and re tried second dry fit and all is fine.Everything lines up no problems. Then you take the top off the glue bottle and apply the glue. You start to reassemble the item and place the clamps on. Why does it never seem to fit like the (perfect fit when dry). Does that wood sense that this is it. The B..st..d got the glue bottle out, were done for, were doomed. Or is it me.!!!!!!!!!!

 

[shim20]

mostly pva and animal (pearl) glue at work. sometimes p.u also.

 

[joiner_sim]

:arrow: You're not wrong about a dry fit. Everything looks great, the second the glue comes out the timber goes all shy!

In the commercial workshop I use casamite http://www.tool-net.co.uk/p-320781/...mite-1-5k-g-cascamite-extramite-adhesive.html and waterproof white glue http://www.hardware-ironmongers.com/details.aspx?code=1800336

In my private workshop I am using evo-stick wood adhesive that is for interior use only. I am using this glue mainly because i have got it for free! :lol: Might use it again, but probably want a waterproof one.
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/59593...sives-_-Evo-Stik Wood Adhesive Interior 500ml

Only screwfix is recommended as a supplier, the other suppliers are just for visual links. All brands are recommended of course. :wink:

 

[9fingers]

I use mainly PVA and PU.

With regard to glue up problems, most of mine come from trying to glue up too much at once.
I tend to be impatient after all the careful cutting of the joints etc to want to get to the completed article instantly.

Ideally the first glue up should just be items that will lie flat in one plane up to the limit of the clamps you have. Once that glue has gone off, progress to the 3 -D structure.
All I need to do is to take my own advice !! :lol:

Bob

 

[MikeG.]

Wise words from Bob 9 Fingers......

I have generally used white PVA in the past, but have taken to using PU for the last 2 or 3 years. That can be really nerve-wracking, though, with the short "open-time". You have to get all your clamps prepared and open to the right amount, packers ready etc, and then be really quick but really methodical.........who says woodworking is boring? (Well, that was my wife actually.....)

I have got fed-up with PVA because no matter how carefully you prepare, and how little squeeze-out you get, and no matter how well you clean up.......surplus on the surface will show through most finishes. PU, on the other hand, cleans off the surface beautifully once dry.

My recent projects with spalted sycamore have led to an experiment with with Titebond 3. This is because trying to mechanically remove PU would have pulled the friable wood surface apart. I have been very impressed (and incidentally, really like the bottle and nozzle). It cleans off the surface very well with a wet rag. The downside is that it dries dark brown, so you really have to be extra careful to remove it from every nook and cranny.

Mike

 

[Mr T]

Hi

PVA and Titebond generally. Cascamite for larger veneer jobs and lipping and PU occasionally for repairs.

The problem with gluing up is that as soon as you put the glue on the wood swells a bit and you nice snug joints then become tight. Also any unsecured surfaces start sliding around when the glue is there to lubricate them.

Chris

 

[joiner_sim]

Also any unsecured surfaces start sliding around when the glue is there to lubricate them.

I can sympathise with that! Just today! I got really nooked off when I was trying to cramp a angled wall packer to a bay window, it just kept on sliding! I ended up throwing it on the floor, and then having to machine it all over again just to end up with the same problem! Except I had patience the second time around!

 

[toysandboats]

Titebond III or Cascamite.

I also share the glue up problem through impatience (as has been said above) trying to do too much at one time. I have plenty of time so why do I still try to rush?

David

 

[Mr T]

Hi

Ocasionally with slidy pieces I put a couple of veneer pins in one of the gluing surfaces and snip off the tops a mm or so above the surface before gluing up, this can stop slippy problems.

Chris

 

[hpl]

I use PVA for general glueing and PU's for gluing up blocks for turning. www.edwardharpley.com shows the finials that we produce. The tension in the timber changes when it is turned and the joints have to be very well glued otherwise the joints open up.
I especially like the Bison Timbermax PU, comes in a mastic type tube, and doesn't expand as much as some of the others. This gives a denser glue. I have to glue up a lot of blocks for turning the finials, 4-6" squares, in metre lengths, and have found that the timbermax is the only one that gives a consistently reliable joint that doesn't open up after turning on oak and other dense timber. Also on oak we sand the face with worn 60 grit paper across the grain to give it a good key and fully spread the glue on both faces. This gives a reliable joint. Softer timbers we use Winzer Wurth PU. Cascamite is as good as the timbermax but too much fiddle to mix up.
I also agree with the joint not looking as good once the glue is applied. I think some of it is from the wood swelling as it seems to be worse on softer timbers. On a piece of oak with plenty of time it seems to me to be easier than on a mahogany or other soft timber.
Sometimes when glueing up there are several joints that all need to go together at the same time and the glue always starts to go off too quickly to get it together with the same amount of fiddling and moving the joints around that there was time to do when there was no glue in the joint. Maybe that is where cascamite would be useful, but it takes so long before the clamps can come off.

Johnny B

 

[Derek Willis.]

Titebond for me, since my stock of glue nearly a gallon became unstable, and I had joints on a finished project coming apart, Titebond is so efficient and sets very quickly.
Saying this, when using glue for external work, I have a supply of Polyurethane adhesive, alyhough messy it is very efficient again.
Derek.

 

[wizer]

I have been getting away with the Lidl UHU PVA for about 4yrs with no memorable failures. I recently invested in a large bottle of TitebondII but I am nervous about the shelf life of it. Will have to get on and make some stuff I guess!!

 

[Derek Willis.]

I bought the U.S. Gallon size, but then I don't expect it to last me very long.
Derek.

 

[The Shark]

I have tried various adhesives over the years: PVA, cascamite, gorilla glue, Titebond.
As a matter of course, I now use ordinary waterproof PVA as I find it easy to work with, and perfectly adequate to glue up any job that I require. (Mind you, I don't tend to make many large projects). I only buy 1litre at a time, so hopefully shelf life won't be a concern.

As far as cramping goes, nothing really to add to what has been said already.

Malc

 

[OllyK]

I tend use Elk PU from Screwfix for most things after repeated failures with EvoStick PVA whilst gluing up skirting boards (3" architrave with 6" board, biscuit jointed).

 

[johnf]

Titebond 3 for me works fine and is waterproof

 

[DaveL]

I use Titebond III for projects but have some of the Lidl extra fast set PVA I use for jigs and try outs.

 

[Derek Willis.]

I have just had to re-build a piece of furniture that had the joints coming apart, I put it down to inferior P.V.A. glue and the lenght of time in use, this does not happen with the superior makes of adhesive.
Derek.