which bandsaw for woodcarving?

UKworkshop.co.uk

Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

cyno

Member
Joined
6 Nov 2012
Messages
5
Reaction score
0
Location
Birmingham
Hi... I started woodcarving 3 months ago and am looking to buy a decent bandsaw to cut blanks, mostly from 1 - 2.5" thick lime wood. From what I've read a 3/16" blade width would be best for this.

I was looking at the Axminster AWHBS250N, but it seems the minimum blade width is 1/4".

Can this be easily modified to use a 3/16"blade or any other suggestions??

New to all this so any advice would be much appreciated...

Cheers
 
cyno":2hnish9m said:
Hi... I started woodcarving 3 months ago and am looking to buy a decent bandsaw to cut blanks, mostly from 1 - 2.5" thick lime wood. From what I've read a 3/16" blade width would be best for this.

I was looking at the Axminster AWHBS250N, but it seems the minimum blade width is 1/4".

Can this be easily modified to use a 3/16"blade or any other suggestions??

New to all this so any advice would be much appreciated...

Cheers
If you are cutting rectangular blanks the width of blade is immaterial. Narrow blades are only needed for cutting tight curves - the narrower the blade the smaller the circle that can be cut. Wider blades will more easily cut straight lines.

.
 
thanks... cutting tight curves is important for me...

I meant I'd be cutting shaped blanks.... cutting out a design on bandsaw then finishing off with knives/ chisels, so need to be able to cut curves.... most of the carvers on american websites/ forums suggest 3/16" blade is best for this...

Any suggestions?

Cheers
 
3/16" minimum cutting circle 5/16"
1/4" minimum cutting circle 5/8"
3/8" minimum cutting circle 1 1/2"

Best place for blades is Tuffsaws http://www.tuffsaws.co.uk/

I don't know how easy it would be to convert the Axminster saw to take 3/16" blades - it's probably that the blade guide bearings would foul the teeth of a very narrow blade.
 
May I suggest you keep an eye out for a second-hand Inca 205. The Incas have a fan club, and for good reason I think (I have a slightly bigger 260) - they are beautifully made, mainly aluminium with the very smart cast ali main frame which tensions the blade really well. For the capacities you need a 205 would be excellent I think. They are light enough at around 20Kg to store in a corner (but most users put them on a small wheeled base unit I expect). I seriously don't think there is a new bandsaw in this capacity range that could beat it, at ANY price.
AND, I saw a nice one go for £57 (I think, fifty-odd anyway) just a few days ago. Worth putting a saved alert on ebay and see what comes up - I am sure you would not be disappointed (plus if you ever sell, you will; get all your cash back, maybe plus some =D> )
 
Cheers guys,

That Inca sounds good, I'll put a saved alert on ebay for one.......

Thanks for your help........
 
cyno":m7cchjeu said:
thanks... cutting tight curves is important for me...

I meant I'd be cutting shaped blanks.... cutting out a design on bandsaw then finishing off with knives/ chisels, so need to be able to cut curves.... most of the carvers on american websites/ forums suggest 3/16" blade is best for this...

Any suggestions?

Cheers

As you are only cutting blanks for carving and surface finish is not critical a coarse 1/4" blade with decent set will get down to 17mm or so hole diameter.
file.php
 
The only problem with using narrow blades is that of support. I stick a couple of thin MDF disks to my guides. Sure they get eaten away, but only so far, after which they support the blade without disintegrating completely.
S
 
Steve Maskery":25ugwu4a said:
The only problem with using narrow blades is that of support. I stick a couple of thin MDF disks to my guides. Sure they get eaten away, but only so far, after which they support the blade without disintegrating completely.
S



Sorry if this is a silly newbie question, but how exactly do you do this? just stick mdf discs to side guides with glue? Any pictures?

Cheers
 
My blade guides are circular bearings about 35mm or so dia. So I stick 2mm MDF (picture frame backing board) to them using DS tape. The blade eats into them, but once bedded, they support the blade fully without damaging it. I support 1/16" blades this way.
I don't have any pics but I do have some video of it. I'll see if I can extract a still from that.
 
The whole issue of 'sacrificial' guides is really good I think - many users have Lignum guides on bandsaws, and this is another variant. Zero-clearance, total support, quick to make and very effective indeed. I would like to see Steve's pics (or I could save up for the video :( )
 
Sorry about the quality, this is a still extracted from a video.
The disks are just cut out using a hole saw and stuck on with DS tape. The pic should make it clear.
MDF guides.png


Cheers
Steve
 

Attachments

  • MDF guides.png
    MDF guides.png
    198.3 KB
That's a neat solution for me - on my saw the supporting wheels are on screws, which makes adjustment easy........that is, if they were actually long enough to get within 3mm of the blade on one side! It would probably be better than packing the wheel off with washers.
 
Back
Top