Where to get a loverly old tenon saw sharpened.

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REN

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Hi all ,
I have the loverly old tyzack tendon saw that I bought second hand . I have tried to sharpen old saws before to an okay standard but when it comes to a fine a tendon saw pitch I’m at a loss. Does any one know where I can get this saw sharpened at a reasonable cost. I live in the Keighley area but can post.
Thanks
 
I’ve purchased a set of Distons from force 10 power tools ( eBay shops ) he does all the resto work and has good reviews . Not sure of cost but easy to contact via eBay ..
 
I can appreciate the desire to keep a fine saw operating at the peak of it's potential performance.I'm a bit surprised that anybody capable of sharpening a saw doesn't recognise that he is already operating on a level way above most hobby woodworkers.I would offer encouragement to visit a car boot sale or two and buy a beat up,blunt tenon saw or two.Take them home and give them a good overhaul,not necessarily to new condition,just to get a good usable saw.Use it,re-sharpen and see how long it takes to elevate your skill level to the point where dealing with a really nice saw isn't such a big mental leap.

I would be exaggerating if I claimed to be an expert sharpener of saws and I regret that my sight isn't as good as it once was,but I do improve a blunt saw every time I pick up a saw file.Which is really helpful if I run into something that takes the edge off as I am trying to reach a significant stage in a project on a Sunday afternoon.By following the advice I am dishing out I now have several saws and tend to select a sharp one while leaving the blunt examples to one side until they leave me with no choice other than having a major sharpening extravaganza.During the course of which I start with the biggest and coarsest saw and work my way down to the more delicate specimens.It seems harder now than formerly to find a really fine saw file and they seem to have bigger corner radii these days but with the aid of an off the stand set of more powerful glasses than I normally use I will keep at it.Any recommendations for a source of really fine files would be appreciated.
 
I can appreciate the desire to keep a fine saw operating at the peak of it's potential performance.I'm a bit surprised that anybody capable of sharpening a saw doesn't recognise that he is already operating on a level way above most hobby woodworkers.I would offer encouragement to visit a car boot sale or two and buy a beat up,blunt tenon saw or two.Take them home and give them a good overhaul,not necessarily to new condition,just to get a good usable saw.Use it,re-sharpen and see how long it takes to elevate your skill level to the point where dealing with a really nice saw isn't such a big mental leap.

I would be exaggerating if I claimed to be an expert sharpener of saws and I regret that my sight isn't as good as it once was,but I do improve a blunt saw every time I pick up a saw file.Which is really helpful if I run into something that takes the edge off as I am trying to reach a significant stage in a project on a Sunday afternoon.By following the advice I am dishing out I now have several saws and tend to select a sharp one while leaving the blunt examples to one side until they leave me with no choice other than having a major sharpening extravaganza.During the course of which I start with the biggest and coarsest saw and work my way down to the more delicate specimens.It seems harder now than formerly to find a really fine saw file and they seem to have bigger corner radii these days but with the aid of an off the stand set of more powerful glasses than I normally use I will keep at it.Any recommendations for a source of really fine files would be appreciated.
Me too with eyesight and fine saw blades. Black felt-tip helps - you can see where you've been. Other then that it's a question of repeating the motion/angles and just making sure I'm hitting alternate gullets.
Can't really see the teeth - but the regular repeated movement is more important than filing each tooth to the "correct" shape IMHO.
 
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I can appreciate the desire to keep a fine saw operating at the peak of it's potential performance.I'm a bit surprised that anybody capable of sharpening a saw doesn't recognise that he is already operating on a level way above most hobby woodworkers.I would offer encouragement to visit a car boot sale or two and buy a beat up,blunt tenon saw or two.Take them home and give them a good overhaul,not necessarily to new condition,just to get a good usable saw.Use it,re-sharpen and see how long it takes to elevate your skill level to the point where dealing with a really nice saw isn't such a big mental leap.

I would be exaggerating if I claimed to be an expert sharpener of saws and I regret that my sight isn't as good as it once was,but I do improve a blunt saw every time I pick up a saw file.Which is really helpful if I run into something that takes the edge off as I am trying to reach a significant stage in a project on a Sunday afternoon.By following the advice I am dishing out I now have several saws and tend to select a sharp one while leaving the blunt examples to one side until they leave me with no choice other than having a major sharpening extravaganza.During the course of which I start with the biggest and coarsest saw and work my way down to the more delicate specimens.It seems harder now than formerly to find a really fine saw file and they seem to have bigger corner radii these days but with the aid of an off the stand set of more powerful glasses than I normally use I will keep at it.Any recommendations for a source of really fine files would be appreciated.
I can appreciate the desire to keep a fine saw operating at the peak of it's potential performance.I'm a bit surprised that anybody capable of sharpening a saw doesn't recognise that he is already operating on a level way above most hobby woodworkers.I would offer encouragement to visit a car boot sale or two and buy a beat up,blunt tenon saw or two.Take them home and give them a good overhaul,not necessarily to new condition,just to get a good usable saw.Use it,re-sharpen and see how long it takes to elevate your skill level to the point where dealing with a really nice saw isn't such a big mental leap.

I would be exaggerating if I claimed to be an expert sharpener of saws and I regret that my sight isn't as good as it once was,but I do improve a blunt saw every time I pick up a saw file.Which is really helpful if I run into something that takes the edge off as I am trying to reach a significant stage in a project on a Sunday afternoon.By following the advice I am dishing out I now have several saws and tend to select a sharp one while leaving the blunt examples to one side until they leave me with no choice other than having a major sharpening extravaganza.During the course of which I start with the biggest and coarsest saw and work my way down to the more delicate specimens.It seems harder now than formerly to find a really fine saw file and they seem to have bigger corner radii these days but with the aid of an off the stand set of more powerful glasses than I normally use I will keep at it.Any recommendations for a source of really fine files would be appreciated.
Many years ago I bought a saw tooth setting tool. It had a dial where you could set the teeth number. Worked well for rip and cross saws . I could do a fair job sharpening. But it didn’t have a setting for fine tendon teeth. I have tried by hand but wouldn’t call the result a success . Also can’t find a triangle file fine enough.
Not too much o a problem as for most of my work I use Japanese pull saws. It would be nice to use a fine old Tennon saw again.
 
If you alternate the filing direction that can be enough set on a very fine saw - just a bit of a burr left from the filing.
 
I also have a fine Tyzack tenon saw, lovely thing, my go to saw for cutting plane beds. You have to sharpen it yourself, it’s part of the initiation. Plus a skill worth learning. You won’t need to set it, as Jacob says, just alternate the filing. Most saw sticking problems can be solved by proper technique and a rub with a candle.

If it’s too far gone, use Deema‘s method to re-tooth it.
 
I would offer encouragement to visit a car boot sale or two and buy a beat up,blunt tenon saw or two.Take them home and give them a good overhaul,not necessarily to new condition,just to get a good usable saw.Use it,re-sharpen and see how long it takes to elevate your skill level to the point where dealing with a really nice saw isn't such a big mental leap.
I think this is key. There are a lot of old saws around. I bought a box full for a fiver. A great resource for learning to sharpen. I'm not great at it, but I am finding that each time I do it I get better. My best so far is a carcass saw I filed with flem for cross cuts. It has really brought home to me the good effect having a saw sharpened for a particular task can have.

A couple of good resources in my opinion:
  • Saw vice. I started with a piece of wood with a sawn slot that take a saw blade. The wood is then clamped in a vice, tightly holding the saw blade. Very flexible and cheap, but holds the saw very low and is a fiddle to get right in my experience. It's difficult to stop the blade slipping lower as you work on it. Since then I've got myself a dedicated second hand saw vice, and that makes the process so much easier.
  • The Veritas Saw File Holder. If you only want to sharpen rip saws, I don't think you need this. But if you want to play with different angles and combination of angles, I find it a really useful resource.
 
Hi all ,
I have the loverly old tyzack tendon saw that I bought second hand . I have tried to sharpen old saws before to an okay standard but when it comes to a fine a tendon saw pitch I’m at a loss. Does any one know where I can get this saw sharpened at a reasonable cost. I live in the Keighley area but can post.
Thanks
Bob down to Keighley men's shed ask for Alan and someone will be around who can sharpen it! Failing that come to Shipley tomorrow / Friday and one of my crew will do it!
 
Saw Doctor used to be a venerable profession I guess. You'll never be able to sharpen one as well as a bona fide expert who does dozens a day. Send it out. You don't have to be able to sharpen one to use it extremely effectively.
 
If you find that you end up having to do it yourself then Workshop Heaven, Classic Hand Tools and Axminster all sell small section triangular files. I think what I use on my tenon saws (13 tpi) is what they call "double extra slim".

Saw sets differ. Some have a wider "plunger" than others. Mine was second hand and chosen for the narrow plunger. It is an Eclipse No 77 and I seem to have been using it on the 11 setting from a 4 to 12 range, which suggests that the number chosen does not have to match the tpi.
 
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