where are my trunnions?

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psycho_grizz

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Hi there,
First time poster here. I've been getting into woodworking for a few months now and for some reason kept justifying the need to keep buying a new tool and getting in trouble with the missus for it lol.

Anyways, I was lucky enough to get a table saw for free off a relative's relative. Its an old Scheppach 5201/5100 and there is next to no information about it on the internet. I'm assuming its a contractors saw because its driven directly from the motor? I've been getting along fine with it for a while now but only recently noticed just how badly misaligned it is. With both the mitre and fence, the cuts are out about 2mm, which I'm assuming is seriously bad. I looked online and people say to adjust the trunnion bolts but the problem is, I don't think I can locate them with my saw.

I attached photos which hopefully shows up and maybe someone can locate them for me. God its a really old table, theres not even a mitre track, but is that how European style tablesaws work?

Cheers,

Grizz
 

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A trunnion is what the motor will tilt upon when doing bevelled cuts. Is their no adjustment in the fence. I would normally align the fence to the blade.
HTH
Mark
 
As already mentioned, trunnions are the parts that hold the motor assemble to the saw. They either connect the saw assembly to the base or in your case the table top itself. Personally, I think you are best adjusting the trunnions as opposed to the fence as to align the fence only will make your mitre slot redundant. In fact I would be using the mitre slot itself to align the blade.

The second picture you post is where you need to be looking, without more detailed pics I would assume the bolts you refer to are the only resettable options you have.

Google your query, plenty of dedicated web sites that will show you how to do it step by step such as; http://www.newwoodworker.com/algntruns.html

I'm sure someone will be along shortly with far more knowledge than me to help.
 
shed9":1n2p49gz said:
Personally, I think you are best adjusting the trunnions as opposed to the fence as to align the fence only will make your mitre slot redundant. In fact I would be using the mitre slot itself to align the blade.

According to Grizz there are no mitre slots in the table.
 
Owl":3bj0vv4e said:
shed9":3bj0vv4e said:
Personally, I think you are best adjusting the trunnions as opposed to the fence as to align the fence only will make your mitre slot redundant. In fact I would be using the mitre slot itself to align the blade.

According to Grizz there are no mitre slots in the table.

Yeah that threw me, he points out that the mitre and fence are out by 2mm but then says it has no track for a mitre. Just did a search on the actual saw and it seems the table is just a piece of formed steel bent over the edge of the frame, so no there isn't a slot. With so little in terms of reference for work going through the blade, I'd have to agree with Wallace / Mark in adjusting the fence if possible.
 
My dad had one of these, good powerful saw, but it is a site saw, and no way refined for joinery work.
But saying that, it was the only saw we had for a while.
The mitre slide, I believe was used on the L/H table edge.
We ended up tapering a piece of hardwood,true to the saw blade, and then screwed it on as a false fence,and setting the riving knife up properly.
Any variation afterwards is soon quickly rectified.
HTH, regards Rodders.
 
I'll try to upload a pic pf the saw as a whole tomorrow. Like Shed9 says, there is no mitre slot, it's a steel bar on a 45 degree angled bar running on bearings.

If it is indeed a site saw then I'm outta luck jigging it for accurate cuts?

I just noticed this earlier rutlands co uk/sp+210mm-bench-top-table-saw+DK2102

Am I better off getting this? Seems good for the price but concerned with plastic parts which may seriously compromise accuracy but at this point, it seems better than my site saw.
 
Technical specs for the rutlands tablesaw for £79


Motor 1200W
Cut Depth at 90 Degrees 50mm
Cut Depth at 45 Degrees 45mm
Blade Dia. 210mm x 30mm
Blade Type 20 Tooth TCT
Main Table 400mm wide x 525mm long
Main Table with Extension 640mm wide x 525mm long
Weight 16kg
 
Added some pics of my tablesaw for those who are curious, I apologize for the bombsite of a workshop I have too.
 

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psycho_grizz":pfqtur2n said:
Added some pics of my tablesaw for those who are curious, I apologize for the bombsite of a workshop I have too.


Yep! that's the one! A very good and powerful saw, I still have all the mitre and slide stuff.
Did you think to have a go at tapering a piece of hardwood to rectify the fence and saw line and screw it on?
That worked on my dads very well, I'm still using the HM 260 planer, just keeps going.
Regards Rodders
 
Yeah that would be a good idea. Next problem is that I'm relative new to woodworking and all I have atm are salvaged SPF and wouldn't know where to get a piece of hardwood. How would I go about tapering it either? I'm not bothered by the mitre fence because I also have a compound sliding mitre saw to make up for it. It's a toss up between getting a new tablesaw or as you suggested align the fence with the blade and lose the mitre function
 

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