When beads meet...

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Tweedy

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Hello gang.

I'm doing some reconstruction work on a modern Gypsy Caravan, this involves a rebuild of the back walls, some improvements to water dispersal and some new windows and seating.

The attached picture is the new frame for the lower back wall. This also supports the bed and will barely be seen.

In spite of that, I put a bead on each of the visible faces to soften the edge. Any excuse to pull out a beading plane if I'm honest.

However where the vertical beads meet the horizontal beads looks... wrong.

I could plane down the verticals and set them back.

If i had left more length, i could have put in a notched overlap.

I could notch out a chamfer.

Is there a better way to do such a meeting in future?
 

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Something similar to below would work with the moulding intersection either scribed as in the rather rough and ready example below in softwood, or mitred as in the walnut mirror at the bottom. Depending upon the precise layout of the joint and any groove, if included, on the same edge as the moulding it might be you need to do a long and short shouldered mortice and tenon. Slainte.

Scribed-MandT-3.JPG


Scribed-MandT-5.JPG


walnut-mirror-20-700px.jpg
 
Last edited:
This old thread by Jar944 shows the way I’ve done it before

Post in thread 'Notching machine (**** bead, jack mitre)'
https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/threads/notching-machine-****-bead-jack-mitre.121289/post-1334972
 
Something similar to below would work with the moulding intersection either scribed as in the rather rough and ready example below in softwood, or mitred as in the walnut mirror at the bottom. Depending upon the precise layout of the joint and any groove, if included, on the same edge as the moulding it might be you need to do a long and short shouldered mortice and tenon. Slainte.

Diolch! Much tidier than my original. Given the amount of movement I'm expecting scribing would be spot on
 
This old thread by Jar944 shows the way I’ve done it before

Post in thread 'Notching machine (**** bead, jack mitre)'
https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/threads/notching-machine-****-bead-jack-mitre.121289/post-1334972
Well cover me in jam and call me a scone. That is a very neat setup, thanks!!
 
Really intresting that this topic should pop up as Ive been looking at creating these joints with beaded edge material, obviously I can cut by hand but I might get a neater joint using the router, trouble is that so far I can only find the Kreg router bit,,and its very expensive, I need a 45 degree bit without a bearing,,even wondered if I could modify an existing bit by removing the bearing and grinding off the spiggot?
 
Another way of doing this is to mitre and glue on these beads after jointing the stock. No additional gear is needed apart from a simple beading cutter and a saw bench to slice the beaded strips off after they have been run on the edge of a board.
The only evidence of this method is from behind, though if the work is painted it will be invisible.

Edit. Short strips of masking tape are really useful for holding on these beads, so one isn't limited by the number of cramps one has access to .
 
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Hi Niall, that certainly would make things easier, Ive not done it like that before feeling quite wrongly that its somehow not the way to do it, but hell, its the same result!
Steve.
 

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