What sort of roof ?

[David_c]

Hi ,

Getting hung up over what to go for , what is your roof made of , and
would you maybe choose different next time ?

Anyone used cheapo felt and been happy with it ?

Had any experience of katepal sbs shingles , they seem to
be good value compared to B&Q gear.


Any help gratefully received ...

Dave

edit - re-posted , sorry.

 

[MikeG.]

Dave,

as an architect, I seem to have designed more than my fair share of outbuildings, and I have a particular favourite material.......Onduline, a bitumous impregnated corrugated fibre-board.

http://www.ondulinebuildingproducts.net/p0007.htm

This stuff is cheap, easily worked, lasts years and years longer than felt, and looks a whole lot better too. There are a number of alternative brands, and your local Builder's Merchants will probably have their own favourite. I have done curved rooves with it, successfully, and I think it will go down to a pitch of a nominal 2 or 3 degrees.

My workshop originally had a felt on OSB roof, and as soon as I discovered Onduline I battened over the top of it and oversheeted with the dark green version.

The only pitfall is that it will cost you a saw!! It gunks up the teeth of an old saw pretty quickly.......but I reckon that is a small price to pay for the knowledge that your expensive tools are going to stay dry in the workshop!

Mike

 

[WellsWood]

The only pitfall is that it will cost you a saw!! It gunks up the teeth of an old saw pretty quickly.......Mike

Did a very big job in this stuff a few years ago, so I know what you mean. Try putting a couple of litres of white spirit in a bucket and with a small hand brush ( the kind that comes with cheap dustpans) just give your saw a quick scrub down after each cut - unclogs the teeth nicely ready for the next one.
I agree that Onduline is great stuff, the drawback is the nails will cost almost as much as the roofing sheets IIRC.

 

[9fingers]

My favourite roofing is Eternit fibre cement slates laid onto slaters underfelt or breathable membrane covering OSB decking. I always use a pitched roof.
Slates are easily cut and light weight so dont need massive rafters under the OSB
Matching ridge parts are stupidly expensive so I use 4" black plastic guttering upside down fixed with screws and plastic sealing covers.
Standard eaves protector mouldings can be adapted to form a tidy edge to lap over the bargeboards.
I've not done any roofs with valleys but I would imagine these would not present a problem.

Long life - no leaks - no worries

Bob

 

[Paul Chapman]

If it's a flat roof, then I reckon the seamless glass fibre stuff is best. I had several of my flat roofs done with it and think it's great. Guaranteed for over 20 years. Here's a random one picked from the internet, but loads of people do it now http://www.adrosol.com/?gclid=CLvxmaPH8 ... 1QodjWxzeg

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[Petiegolfer]

I used onduline on the shed I built at the old house. It works really well its easy to put up etc. Only thing I would do differently next time is overbaord the roof with ply rather than battens.

Ply would have made things a lot easier to get up.

Piers

 

[David_c]

Hi , Thanks all for the replies and tips !

Mike , Piers , looks like Onduline is King then. Those tiles sound really nice but possibly expensive Bob.

Yes Mark , i had noticed the nails were expensive possibly going to cost me as much again as the sheets with Onduline !

heres my dilemma though
I had almost decided on onduline , as a few people on here were singing its praises , until i realised that my roof shape
might make it a bit awkward ....
what do you think ?
My shed is built into an obtuse ? corner . So from the ridge at the rear the roof gable leads outwards . ( the shed is wider at the eaves than the ridge on the one side and narrower at the other ) Not easy for me to explain really, hope that makes sense .
The upshot is it might be a whole lot simpler for a novice like me to
use felt ,as i am not sure how to deal with stopping water getting in under the corrugations on the gable that leads out ?
Any ideas ?


Dave

 

[MikeG.]

Can you draw this for me? I have done odd shaped rooves with Onduline with no problem.......but a sketch will help.

Mike

 

[David_c]

Hi Mike ,

Many thanks for your kind offer of help.

i just knocked up a jpg , how can i post it ?

or can you view this -

http://picasaweb.google.com/iquiteliket ... 1466343074

cheers , Dave

 

[Woodmagnet]

Personally i would use the felt David, it needs replacing
every few years but so what. I have used other products in
the past and i still prefer felt, don't really know why though.
Ah! It's cheap :lol: i new there was a reason :lol:

 

[MikeG.]

David,

there is no problem at all with that shape shed and Onduline (or similar) roofing.

The edges of the roof are covered with a 90 degree covering strip which dresses over the top of the roof sheet and then down the gable or barge boards. Piece of cake.

If you do use one of these products, don't just use the horizontal battens that they recommend, but also have a batten parallel with the roof edge so that you can nail this cover strip in place anywhere along its length.

People keep on about how cheap felt is.........but you'll be surprised how cheap this stuff is too. The difference is, in 10 years time you won't be regretting your choice of material!

Mike

 

[David_c]

Hi Kevin ,
Felt certainly sounds the simplest option .

Mike , Thanks for you kind help . Good to know its an option.Still concerned about appearance and my technical ability / winter closing in etc
aswell as cost of nails /trims etc.

I think the self adhesive route is my fav option , but not cheap.
Is torch on felt an easy job i wonder ?
Can i do it with just my plumbing gas torch ?

Man i am so sad , i really should just get with it! :roll:

Dave

 

[MikeG.]

Nails aren't expensive........and I reckon it is simpler to get Onduline right than felt.........your choice!

 

[neilyweely]

Funny thing; last week I set a lean to up against the wall of the workshop.
I had never heard of, or used this onduline stuff. However, in my local wickes I saw this corrugated bitumenised stuff, and there were 2 sheets with ripped edges, which I got for a fiver each. Good enough. So, I got em home and fixed 'em up to the side of the workshop. I set a batten against the top of the wall, a foot under the roof line, and fixed the onduline to it. I used a piece of dp strip stuff, and a lot of sealant, and sealed the edge to the wall. It sits under the eaves anyway, so should be ok.

It looks good, and coverage is good for your pound. And if what Mike says it right, and he has been spot on for me in the past, then I made the right choice. I am going to extend it some, so I can work under it when cutting panels in the rain/snow/whatever.

In summary - Me? I'd go for the onduline.

Nice to get it right by fluke, eh? Better to be lucky than good, as they say.

HTH

Neil

 

[David_c]

Hi Update :

Bought self adhesive felt , 20yr sort . will let you know how i get on
had a few good reports.

Would def consider onduline for the future mind . Happy i've gone
for very simple option for now.

Got a good deal there Neil !

Dave

 

[chicken_house_man]

I use COroline. Slighly different spec but from the same manufacturer.

B&Q are cheapest for the sheets as they sell it as a lose leader then add the cost on to the nails.

Nails are cheapest from Blanchfords builders merchants about 90p/bag instaed of £3 from b&Q. there's postage to add but still works out cheaper.

 

[CWatters]

I'm in a conservation area and wanted to try shingles on my outbuilding but the planners said it had to be clay tiles. They initially said I had to use pantiles despite me having plain tiles on the house. One day I'll understand how their mind works.

PS if the building is bigger than 15 sqm (eg 5 x 3) and you are building within 1 meter of the boundary you need Building Control Approval. That may have implications for the roof?
http://www.planningportal.gov.uk/englan ... 33153.html

 

[MikeG.]

Colin,

pantiles are traditionally used for out buildings and agricultural buildings. The more expensive and labour intensive plain tiles were saved for houses.

The relevence of the 1 metre rule is for fire regulations, which typically only apply to walls (in these situations).

Mike