What push sticks do you use to keep the fingers on????

[Scrit]

If you are using a notched push stick with the notch pushed firmly against the workpiece and the work is running against a short rip fence (i.e. minimal resistance) I fail to see how you can get a push strip to slip. After all you only use the stick for the last bit of the push. If you feel that way then line the notch by glueing on a bit of 80 grit (or coarser) sandpaper.......

 

[Anonymous]

Blimey Tom, that sounds pretty scary and painful. Hope the ribs improve soon.

I have used plastic push sticks for ages but the resoning behind this thread is to move away from them and you've just given me one more reason!

 

[Scrums]

Twice, not just the once - but I had to do it twice.....I stuck my finger - well, thumb to be precise into the path of the cutter - once on a spindle moulder, once on an upturned router.

How did I manage that? - with the guarding around it?....well, it was just a quick job - I wasn't going to do anything stupid was I?.

Didn't have any guarding in place - (just a quick job) ermm...no.!

You can get mesmerized by these things....I was very lucky, just a few bits missing that they couldn't sew back on (couldn't find them)

But seriously though - if you're scared of a machine or operation - you're gonna have a problem sooner or later, conversely - if you get to be over confident and cocky using these machines - the same thing will happen.

Make sure you cover all the cutting edges, have individual push sticks in place for each machine - and don't get complacent.

Chris.

 

[bg]

Especially for small widths on my router table I use a Gripper pushblock. (as on Rutlands web site as a Dakota Gripper). Actually I often find its better to use 2 of them, one for each hand so as to continually feed longer pieces past the cutter. They can take a bit longer to adjust to the wood size before they can be used than a simple push stick but I find it easy apply down pressured against the table and side pressure to the fence as well. Also the ‘rubber’ grip really does grip the wood very securely. I feel very save when using them and they have a big recommendation from me. They are also good for some work on the table saw although, as shown in this months GWW one must be very careful about using them without a guard on the saw (one of the main uses touted for the Gripper) when pushing the wood over the saw blade standing behind the table with one’s arm extended and possible getting one’s are just too near the saw blade. But for the router table I have found them ideal.

 

[Anonymous]

Hi Tony

Just ordered a couple of those Chris, thanks mate

If you don't mind me asking, how much was the carriage?

Cheers
Neil

$10.99 for each pad (I orderd 2)
$6.95 pack and indured delivery

UPDATE!!

Just been emailed to say that postage is in fact $23.95 :-k

 

[Neomorph]

(snip)... They are also good for some work on the table saw although, as shown in this months GWW one must be very careful about using them without a guard on the saw (one of the main uses touted for the Gripper) when pushing the wood over the saw blade standing behind the table with one’s arm extended and possible getting one’s are just too near the saw blade. But for the router table I have found them ideal.

Shouldn't you be standing at an angle and not right behind the the table to prevent "kickback evisceration" causing by the wood being thrown directly back at superluminous speed?

Looking around the net regarding pushsticks, many woodworkers suggest building your own out of 3/4" plywood but I'd make sure that you didn't use any screws in pushers. Imagine a saw clipping one of the screws out of the pusher... instant shrapnel time... :shock:

Another thing that Norm does confuses me. He made a box joint cutting jig for use on the table saw. He went over how to construct it and use it but when he started using the table saw a text block appeared saying "guards have been removed for photographing purposes" yet if the guards were attached the jig wouldnt work as the whole thing goes over the top of the blade... Catch 22 situation lol! The only safe way would be to not do it or use a router table like what is recommended here for doing dados.

 

[Richard in Smithville]

I used to notch what ever scrap I had handy. I always found it awkward to keep the work pushed flat on the table, tight against the fence when a feather board wouldn't work, and constant towards the blade. I came up with a push stick that acts as a hold down also. To make it comfortable, I cut the handle like a saw handle.

 

[Permutation_Jim]

Folks,

I've got a little Kity 419 and while small (8" blade), I like to be as careful as I can be.

First off, my push blocks are homemade. I use 18 mm ply with the bottom covered by a trimmed rubber mousepad. That's about the strongest grip I can imagine. The handles are either hardwood or 18 mm MDF, cut to shape on the bandsaw and then routed to soften the edges. I'll have to think about adding a retracting rear catch... neat idea.

For a push stick, I either use the plastic one (although, not for long after that story... eek!) or an "over the fence" one similar to the fence-straddling tenoning jigs I've seen some folks use. It keeps the fence between my hand and the blade, although it requires the use of a featherboard.

Lastly, and best of all, I splurged on a set of BoardBuddies (here), along with their track. The whole unit slides neatly into the top groove on the Kity saw fence (just used four standard M6 bolts with wing nuts).

The thing is fantastic. It holds the boards down (reducing the chance of the old "lift 'n throw") and pulls them toward the fence. As well, they only spin one way, further reducing the chance of high speed wood poisoning.

Hope that helps.

Thanks, Jim

 

[Anonymous]

Hi Neomorph,

What BG was referring to wasn't where you actually stand when making the cut (you are correct) but where your arm ends up when pushing the timber through with the Grripper. Your forearm ends up directly over the crown of the blade, and with no guarding to protect you, a very serious accident is very easy to achieve...

cheers,
Andy

 

[woodbloke]

Always make mine at least 400 mm long and from offcuts of 6mm ply, when the ends get mangled (better than your fingers), or to short to be safe, bin them and make some new ones - you don't need to buy them and you can save yourself some dosh. I also made some smaller ones to use on the bandsaw - Rob

 

[woodbloke]

Always make mine at least 400 mm long and from offcuts of 6mm ply, when the ends get mangled (better than your fingers), or to short to be safe, bin them and make some new ones - you don't need to buy them and you can save yourself some dosh. I also made some smaller ones to use on the bandsaw - Rob