What MDF

[Vinny]

I'm in the sketchup stage of designing a new computer desk/storage facility/general area for dumping everyone elses crap. (we've all got one of those) that will live at one end of my dining room.

The plan at the mo is to make the basic cabinets and hutch (??) from mdf which will be painted/sprayed (new spraying toy coming soon) with the drawers, cupboard doors and desk top from recycled solid oak flooring.

This is my first project which could be described as "furniture", everything thus far has been "functional" - shelf units and cupboards for the utility room, shoe racks for another nondescript area of my house, boxing in of pipework and the list goes on.

So down to the main question, what type of mdf for the units? From what I've read (and i've done some reading on this - i'm onto my third set of eyes already). So far i've only used stuff from the sheds and TP, this has that lovely fluffy edge which i've been using sealer and primer on to get to some sort of finish.

Robbins in Bristol do Medite MDF, is this the stuff I should be going for or should I continue down the fluffy edge route sealing, priming and sanding as i go.

As always thanks in advance for any advice.

Vinny

Edit. I may add that I'm sure this has probably been covered at length and i have looked but the search facility and me speak a different language. Apologies for possibly going over old ground

 

[BradNaylor]

I would recommend that you use a good brand of moisture resistant MDF - it is recognisable by the green colouring which is added to the mix.

Medite is one of the best, but make sure you specify moisture resisant or MR MDF.

As for paints, the best primer you will find is Morrells AC white primer. Two coats with a good sand in between will give a perfect surface for your top coat.

http://www.morrells.co.uk/products/wood/4

They've got a branch in Bristol;

http://www.morrells.co.uk/branch/5

 

[The Bear]

Hi

I asked the same Q at the start of the week, though got few replies.
It would seem Caber brand MR MDF is also good for this purpose and I think is slightly cheeper.

Mark

 

[Mr Mike]

Just out of interest Duncan, do you use the 'Ready For Use' primer 5005/600

or the other white coloured 2-pack AC primer 5005/619 ?

Morrells have recently opened a branch in South London now, just need to find the time to pop in there and open an account.

.....Am even considering their 2 day course in sunny Stockport.....

 

[Vinny]

Brad/Bear

Thanks for the replies. Robbins have the green Medite, will check whether its MR.
I am going to to try and go the Morrels route. using the precat range as a starter (white or very close to white) so the natural order of things would suggest using the Morrels primer as well. Only reservation is that i think you mentioned in a recent thread that Morrels will only supply to trade, I'm not that good at BullShi**ing (although you'd have thought that 22 years in the RAF would make me a grade 1 BS'er) and did plan to "front up" and explain my situation (just starting to spray mdf after an age of hobbying with a brush and roller) in the hope they'd take me at face value and not turn me away - any advice on this please or indeed anyone with previous experience of non trade purchases from Morrels.

Cheers

Vinny

 

[woodbloke]

... you'd have thought that 22 years in the RAF would make me a grade 1 BS'er...

Cheers

Vinny

Absolutely! :lol: :lol: - Rob

 

[BradNaylor]

Just out of interest Duncan, do you use the 'Ready For Use' primer 5005/600

or the other white coloured 2-pack AC primer 5005/619 ?

Morrells have recently opened a branch in South London now, just need to find the time to pop in there and open an account.

.....Am even considering their 2 day course in sunny Stockport.....

I'm not sure; I just phone up and ask for 'White AC Primer'! I'll have to check on Monday.

I suspect I use the 5005/619 as by no stretch of the imagination could it be described as 'Ready For Use'. I have to thin it down by around 10% to make it sprayable. I don't mind though, because thinners is cheaper than paint!

I believe their course is excellent; I wouldn't mind it myself. I've been spraying furniture for nearly 30 years but being entirely self-taught I've no idea whether I'm doing it properly!

If you're coming to Stockport you really must have a pint of Robinson's. I know just the place...

:wink:

 

[JoinerySolutions]

Just a note on sealing MDF, when I made some built-in's some years ago I sealed the mdf with shellac then coated with a mahogany coloured varnish the result was really good, no blotchy areas at all. The idea was taken from an american program all about finishing furniture, the guys tended to spit coat with shellac almost every job!

 

[BradNaylor]

Brad/Bear

Thanks for the replies. Robbins have the green Medite, will check whether its MR.
I am going to to try and go the Morrels route. using the precat range as a starter (white or very close to white) so the natural order of things would suggest using the Morrels primer as well. Only reservation is that i think you mentioned in a recent thread that Morrels will only supply to trade, I'm not that good at BullShi**ing (although you'd have thought that 22 years in the RAF would make me a grade 1 BS'er) and did plan to "front up" and explain my situation (just starting to spray mdf after an age of hobbying with a brush and roller) in the hope they'd take me at face value and not turn me away - any advice on this please or indeed anyone with previous experience of non trade purchases from Morrels.

Cheers

Vinny

If it's green, it's MR.

I've been buying off Morrells for a quarter of a century :shock: so I've no experience of being a non-trade buyer. All I do know is that a few years ago big signs went up all over their trade counters emphasising that their products were for professional use only and that retail customers would be refused. They even 'prohibited' trade customers from reselling on to end users.

I suspect that this was more an elf'n'safety issue than a commercial decision. I don't know how strictly the policy is enforced at other trade counters but I'm pretty sure the guys at Manchester would be happy enough to sell to you. Probably best to phone up first. Then if it's a no-no you can print off some business cards and turn up as someone else!

 

[Mr Mike]

Vinny - I can't imagine they'd turn the business away if you're discreet. MR MDF will give the cleanest edges when machined, but even standard medite boards are a vast difference to the crumbly fluffy rubbish the sheds sell.



Brad - The course is free, over two days, at their Woodley factory. My father-in-law lives in Liverpool so he can put me up for a couple of days (though he doesn't know it yet).

For a moment there I thought you were talking about "Robinson's Barley Water" Mr. Naylor....... :shock: :lol:

......I definitely don't need much persuasion in sampling the local cask ale. It would be rude not to. :wink:

 

[Brian Jackson]

Pre cat is a laquer and therefore requires a laquer undercoat.

 

[BradNaylor]

Pre cat is a laquer and therefore requires a laquer undercoat.

Not necessarily.

Pre cat paints are also available. A pedant would insist that that they are 'pigmented lacquers'.

http://www.morrells.co.uk/products/wood/2

Pre cat is OK, but acid cat is much better and well worth the slight inconvenience of having to mix in the catalyst.

 

[JonnyD]

Just out of interest Duncan, do you use the 'Ready For Use' primer 5005/600

or the other white coloured 2-pack AC primer 5005/619 ?

I'm not sure; I just phone up and ask for 'White AC Primer'! I'll have to check on Monday.

I suspect I use the 5005/619 as by no stretch of the imagination could it be described as 'Ready For Use'. I have to thin it down by around 10% to make it sprayable. I don't mind though, because thinners is cheaper than paint!

Just been in the workshop today and checked what I use and its the 5005/619 White Primer and very good it is too. Like Brad I find it needs a little thinning about 5-10%

cheers

Jon

 

[Brian Jackson]

Pre cat is a laquer and therefore requires a laquer undercoat.

Not necessarily.

Pre cat paints are also available. A pedant would insist that that they are 'pigmented lacquers'.

http://www.morrells.co.uk/products/wood/2

Pre cat is OK, but acid cat is much better and well worth the slight inconvenience of having to mix in the catalyst.

Catalyzed lacquer: Hybrid reactive finishes that cure chemically, not solely through the evaporation of solvents


Large, high-volume shops prefer the pre-catalyzed lacquers because their production cycles guarantee that they will use a predictable quantity over a given period of time. Buying the pre-catalyzed version saves them labor and time, and it eliminates the possibility of operator error in not mixing the correct proportions. Small shops usually prefer the post-catalyzed variety because they can mix what they need in smaller batches, avoiding the waste of having to discard the unused finish before it goes bad. Regarding the pot life, it will be affected by storage temperatures and the formulations vary among the manufacturers, so you’d be well advised to follow their instructions closely.

 

[Vinny]

Morrels - first contact.

Just been speaking to morrels, they couldn't have been more helpful. Explained my situation and asked about the "trade Only" thang. apparently i would be classed as trade - they only stipulate Trade as if they were to sell to retailers (resellers) the insurance is different (I imagine for different you should read expensive)
Bottom line is - friendly bloke, full of advice on what to start out with (PreCat) and what to progress to, also the undercoating, priming etc etc.

Vinny