What Make For Good Quality Long Lasting Spade Bits?

[ED65]

Your comments are somewhat disparaging bearing in mind some 50+ years experience with wood and hole drilling.

Apologies if it sounded disparaging. I don't know you or what your standards are so I could only go by what you said which IME (and that of others including Andy Rae and Steve Maxwell) applies only to spade bits that are not sharp or badly balanced or both.

 

[ED65]

A picture's worth a thousand words and all that, so here's my 4,000-word rebuttal to the naysayers:

Now these aren't the quality of hole you can get from a really nice Forstner, but they're better than you can get from a mediocre one. And I think anyone will grant that they are on a par with many a hole formed by an auger bit. Which puts spade bits in a class ever so slightly above completely useless

 

[pollys13]

https://www.workshopheaven.com/star-m-japanese-f-type-bit-singles.html

I got one of these with a pair of holdfasts and have invested in a few more since because they are great, highly recommended instead of flat bits.

I've read up on these and think will give them a try, thanks.

 

[pollys13]

Depending on what your application is, have you considered forstner bits?

I bought a pair of Fisch Wave Cutter Forstners. As are, too short and only one, a 300mm extension available for these. The extension makes unsuitable to fit in portable drill stand, can't use floor standing pillar drill. The Colt Forstners had a good write up and can get suitable length extenders. After reading up on the Auger Japanese M bits think will try them.

 

[pollys13]

I did use a single, Bahco 19mm spade bit for drilling holes in 18mm ply. Six rows of 14 holes each row, for making a peg board using dogs and wedges to hold carving projects in position. The Bahco held up really well but started to struggle on the last set. So bought a real cheapo off Ebay for the final 7th row. The cheapo did about 2/3 holes, then was hard work..... and brute force, got an ok clean hole though, same with the Bahco.
For drilling dog holes in a Beech work top I think will be ok with the Japanese M auger bits, with the portable drill stand clamped down into position.

 

[pcb1962]

I did use a single, Bahco 19mm spade bit for drilling holes in 18mm ply. Six rows of 14 holes each row, for making a peg board using dogs and wedges to hold carving projects in position. The Bahco held up really well but started to struggle on the last set. So bought a real cheapo off Ebay for the final 7th row.

Why didn't you just sharpen the Bahco bit?

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Depending on what your application is, have you considered forstner bits?

I bought a pair of Fisch Wave Cutter Forstners. As are, too short and only one, a 300mm extension available for these. The extension makes unsuitable to fit in portable drill stand, can't use floor standing pillar drill. The Colt Forstners had a good write up and can get suitable length extenders. After reading up on the Auger Japanese M bits think will try them.

You only need accuracy in the first inch or two with a forstner - its sides will keep it true (enough). Using the extension freehand shouldn't affect anything.

 

[pollys13]

I did use a single, Bahco 19mm spade bit for drilling holes in 18mm ply. Six rows of 14 holes each row, for making a peg board using dogs and wedges to hold carving projects in position. The Bahco held up really well but started to struggle on the last set. So bought a real cheapo off Ebay for the final 7th row.

Why didn't you just sharpen the Bahco bit?

Didn't think of it.

 

[ScottandSargeant]

Here is a German company called Famag which produce a vast range of wood bits - not sure who imports them though... I am sure google will give you the answer!

 

[gregmcateer]

Workshop Heaven import Famag, I believe

 

[Phil Pascoe]

I've not bored a hole with a spade bit yet that wouldn't have been quicker/cleaner/more accurate bored with something else.