What Glue

[Chris_belgium]

Have been making some rather large mortices lately https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=34019, two of the twelve mortices are slightly wider at the bottom due to the bit grabbing the wood and forcing the router to tilt slightly.
This is not more than 1mm maximum, is there some kind of glue wich can fill a void like this and still give a very strong glue connection? I was thinking something along the line of an epoxy glue but have no experience with this. Any tips as to what brands or type of glue to use?

Thanks, Christof.

 

[plymouth pirate]

One used in boat building which foams on application and filles gaps is Cascemite.

I've got joints on my old woody that were made seven or eight years ago and are still good.

Rgds

John

 

[Oryxdesign]

West Epoxy mixed with colloidal silica. Wet the joint first and then mix in the colloidal silica.

 

[les chicken]

Gorilla glue should be fine but wear disposable gloves, it is a sod to get off your hands.

Les

 

[Derek Willis.]

Polyurethane adhesive expands and is good for this.
Derek.

 

[wizer]

Try Pritt Stick

 

[woodbloke]

Try Pritt Stick

...or a bit of Grip Fill - Rob

 

[wizer]

perfect, Grip Fill is the solution to everything

 

[Russ]

perfect, Grip Fill is the solution to everything

Yep; And expandable-foam...

Has anyone noticed that SuperGlue doesn't work anymore?

 

[Paul Chapman]

Just another thought, Christof. You could consider gluing in a piece of veneer or opening up the mortice a little more and gluing in a thin sliver of wood so that the mortice is the right size, rather than trying to fill the gap with glue.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[Anonymous]

Forget glue to fill the gap.

Glue on a piece of veneer to thicken the tenon and then trim to get a snug fit. The strength in a mortise and tenon comes from the mechanical contact, not the glue

 

[FogggyTown]

Forget glue to fill the gap.

Glue on a piece of veneer to thicken the tenon and then trim to get a snug fit. The strength in a mortise and tenon comes from the mechanical contact, not the glue

What he said!

 

[TheTiddles]

NAILS!

 

[Chris_belgium]

Lost in translation as usual , I have a feeling that my explanation is misunderstood.

It is not that the whole tenon is loos in the mortice, when I test fit the tenon in the mortice, afterwards I can see discoloration on the wood where there was actual contact between the tenon walls and the mortice walls. Only on two tenon's there are some area's the size of a poststamp wich didn't contact.

At my work we use epoxy to glue ( correct term is wirelock) steel cables to pulling eyes, forces applied to these cables are over 40 tonnes. I know this is a long way from woodworking, but maybe there was a good epoxy glue wich both glues a hardens out.

Hope this makes more sense, probably not tough, that's what you get from sniffing to much pritt glue when one is younger

 

[SBJ]

Epoxy is your friend, as it is best for gap filling, I believe that PVA also has some gap filling qualities. PU on the other hand has very poor gap filling qualities, dont be tricked by the foam as it has no (relatively speaking) strength. As i understand it PU glue works best under high clamping pressure.

 

[Oryxdesign]

What Stuart says is correct, pu may foam and fill the gap but this foam has no strength.
Si

 

[Chris_belgium]

West Epoxy mixed with colloidal silica. Wet the joint first and then mix in the colloidal silica.

What exactly is the colloidal silica and what does it doe? Have heard of the west epoxy glue before so should be able to find it. Is the glue strengt of epoxy glue comparable to titebond,...?

 

[Oryxdesign]

Epoxy glues are quite thin, to make them suitable for the application it is often required that you add a filler or thickener. Colloidal silica is a thickener suited for bonding applications a better description can be found on the West website.
When I say wet the joint out first I mean mix the epoxy and paint it onto the joint surfaces then add the filler apply to the joint and mate the surfaces.
Wests run a good one day course in the uk but I'm not sure if one is available near you. If you want a chat on the phone pm me.
Hope that helps Simon

 

[Chris_belgium]

Epoxy glues are quite thin, to make them suitable for the application it is often required that you add a filler or thickener. Colloidal silica is a thickener suited for bonding applications a better description can be found on the West website.
When I say wet the joint out first I mean mix the epoxy and paint it onto the joint surfaces then add the filler apply to the joint and mate the surfaces.
Wests run a good one day course in the uk but I'm not sure if one is available near you. If you want a chat on the phone pm me.
Hope that helps Simon

I'v looked through their site tonight and found it very informative. I have ordered the resin + slow hardener, the silica and even their pump system to be sure to get the perfect resin/hardener mixture

Thanks for the tip, keep an eye on my build thread if you want to see a poor Belgian who is covered from head to toe in epoxy with half his tools glued to his body :twisted:

 

[Oryxdesign]

Seriously wear gloves and glasses, if you are that messy you might need a latex body suit! Don't eat anything until you have washed your hands.
Remember take your time, start with warm resin and hardener, mix the epoxy very well especially into the corners of the pot, you can wet the joint out at this stage and then add the filler. Once the filler has been added keep the epoxy spread out around the inside of the pot, epoxy is exothermic, so the thicker it is, the more heat it creates, the faster it goes off therefor you can increase pot life by keeping it spread out.
Good luck, it takes a bit of getting used to using but once you get the hang of it it's great. Pm me if you get in a mess and need a bit of advice but I think you'll be fine.
Si