What do I ask for? First time buying wood

[codaamok]

I'm doing a course and the first project is to build a mobile workbench.

Before I make the first daunting call, I just want to make sure I use the correct terminology so it's clear what I'm asking for.

The project stipulates 2x "boards" which are basically two "two by fours" approx 2.5m / 8ft long. I also need one plywood sheet, approx 19 mm x 1.219 m x 2.438 m.

Is what I've written clear enough and reasonable enough language to use? "boards" to me seems a little vague - maybe I'm over thinking it but I think might more commonly called something else. Also, knowing when to use imperial or metric drives me a little nuts.

The spec sheet doesn't stipulate the species of wood, but I guess that's dictated for me by the size and what's commonly used/available? I'm not particular about the species, but I think 2x4's are typically pine.

 

[Blackswanwood]

Two by four is simply the thickness and width in inches. I’ve never really thought about it but boards, planks and stock are all interchangeable when describing wood.

You may find the wood in the DIY sheds is a bit variable in quality. For something like this I’d go to Jewson (or similar) and make sure I got straight and reasonable knot free boards.

 

[Jake]

Quite a lot to unpack in there, so no surprise it's a bit baffling for someone new to it. Where are you planning to purchase from?

I'd read a reference to 2 x 4s without any other details as meaning just standard carpentry timber for joists etc - whitewood/spruce. Redwood (pine) is higher quality and used for joinery, and is more dense and tougher and better looking. Sticking with the standard whitewood timber, there are still a few variations, you can it plain sawn, so a rougher finish, or planed (usually with eased/rounded edges), and treated or untreated (wood preservative designed to help with construction timber which might be exposed to moisture). You want two 'lengths' - depending on the merchant's stock you'll need to buy two at 2.7m or 3m to get your finished sizes.

On the plywood, the default sheet size is nominally 8' x 4' (2440mm x 1220mm), and if you ask for a sheet of 18mm plywood the only question which will be asked will be what kind of ply you want as there are various types (and a wide range of pricing to go with them).

If I were in your shoes I'd go to a timber merchant and have a mosey around to see what looks right for the finished result you want. A builder's merchant would also do but the choice might be a bit more limited. But a big shed like a Selco will, for instance, have several types of plywood and both whitewood and redwood 2 x 4s.

 

[Katomi woodsmith]

There is a nice timbour yard on the meon valley road used to be known as meon valley timbour
Hope this helps

 

[Blackswanwood]

Just to add - don’t feel daunted. There’s a lot of helpful people who work in builders merchants and timber yards!

 

[MarkAW]

You may find in many places the timber is stored outside, and so quite damp. As it dries it will shrink, so it's best to give it some time to acclimatise in the workshop before you build it.

Also varying species that plywood is made of can be a bit more splintery than others. I'd avoid the splintery type for a bench.
The low grade plywood tends to be called shuttering ply, depending on the level of quality you want on your bench you can avoid that too. (Though saying that, it's what my 'temporary' bench has been made of, that's still going strong)

 

[rs6mra]

I am not sure on how mobile you need the workbench to be but you might want to consider using a solid core door for the top of the workbench. These are doors that usually comprise of solid wood edges, thin sheet ply faces and MDF or glued-up wood for the core. The best ones come without mortices or holes. They are completely flat and blank and as they are dense it makes the workbench heavy and solid.

 

[codaamok]

Wow lots of very helpful replies, thank you very much

I'm planning on contacting a local small timber merchant, South Cost Timber.

I'll have to measure the boot with the chairs down to see what I can get away. Maybe I'll ask them to cut the bigger parts of the job just I can in the car.

Using a door is a good idea, and I'm kicking myself a bit because I took an old door to the tip just a couple of months ago.

Thanks again for replying so quickly. I'm more confident now with this additional info.

 

[Jameshow]

Also Totten timber are good too.

Try and get PAR (planned all round) rather than eased edge c16 as the quality will be better.

 

[robgul]

I'm doing a course and the first project is to build a mobile workbench.

Before I make the first daunting call, I just want to make sure I use the correct terminology so it's clear what I'm asking for.

The project stipulates 2x "boards" which are basically two "two by fours" approx 2.5m / 8ft long. I also need one plywood sheet, approx 19 mm x 1.219 m x 2.438 m.

Is what I've written clear enough and reasonable enough language to use? "boards" to me seems a little vague - maybe I'm over thinking it but I think might more commonly called something else. Also, knowing when to use imperial or metric drives me a little nuts.

The spec sheet doesn't stipulate the species of wood, but I guess that's dictated for me by the size and what's commonly used/available? I'm not particular about the species, but I think 2x4's are typically pine.

For future clarity - in the USA timber is often described as "boards" - e.g. "2 x 4 boards" - and they are yet to catch on that the rest of the world, pretty much, uses metric.

Is this a Steve Ramsey from YouTube course you're doing? - he has an interesting BMW (Basic Mobile Workbench) project

 

[joshvegas]

Also, knowing when to use imperial or metric drives me a little nuts.

Metric. Always metric. There is never a need to use imperial.

 

[artie]

Metric. Always metric. There is never a need to use imperial.

Only time I use imperial is when I visualize a project.

 

[codaamok]

For future clarity - in the USA timber is often described as "boards" - e.g. "2 x 4 boards" - and they are yet to catch on that the rest of the world, pretty much, uses metric.

Is this a Steve Ramsey from YouTube course you're doing? - he has an interesting BMW (Basic Mobile Workbench) project

Yes! It's his BMW I'm making

Steve is pretty good. While he's in the US, he definitely understand there's a world outside the US and offers metric measurements, too.

 

[HOJ]

I've had a look at his plans, they are based on imperial dims just converted to cm.

His 4" X 2" is actually CLS as in it was 4" X 2" before it was dimensioned/planed, so you are looking for a finished size of 3 /1/2" X 1 1/2", or in metric 89mm X 38mm, which in the UK is a standard CLS size, (which stands for Canadian Lumber Standard!!) commonly used for stud wall partitions etc, and readily available across a range of outlets.

 

[Bingy man]

The advice above is excellent especially for a beginner, as said most suppliers will help you as much as possible as they want you to return . Don’t buy anything yet but visit a few of the big stores bnq,,,wicks,, Selco , travis perkins , Jew son etc and any smaller timber merchants and do 2 things . 1 see what their quality and prices are like for similar products eg 2x1”. 2x2” 4x2” etc. how is it stored ( inside or outside) see how the staff help you at the different stores and go from there ..good luck

 

[Jameshow]

I've had a look at his plans, they are based on imperial dims just converted to cm.

His 4" X 2" is actually CLS as in it was 4" X 2" before it was dimensioned/planed, so you are looking for a finished size of 3 /1/2" X 1 1/2", or in metric 89mm X 38mm, which in the UK is a standard CLS size, (which stands for Canadian Lumber Standard!!) commonly used for stud wall partitions etc, and readily available across a range of outlets.

If that's the case I'd just buy 4x2 cls and pick though he stack at b+Q or Wickes.
The quality is often better than c16 timber from builders merchants. Look at the end grain and look for close rings then look down rhw length for twist and shakes (splits)
B+Q had some nice beech plywood in recently so you might get lucky with that?

 

[Cabinetman]

The best plywood might not be the most convenient, check that the place has a cutting service like B&Q do. The ply here will be 18mm btw.
Ian

 

[Scruples]

Also, knowing when to use imperial or metric drives me a little nuts.

Metric. Always metric. There is never a need to use imperial.

Well... I was brought up in the imperial days and was around when trades switched to SI units, back in the late 60s, although SI kicked off from 1965. Cable sizes became a litle easier, eventually. But I always stuck to imperial for longer lengths/distances and SI for more accurate shorter measurements; I still do at times. So, I would estimate a room, or a garden, in yards but use millimetres for positioning sockets, shelves etc.

But, of course, we must remember that road signs are still marked in miles and the slip roads in yards. The British have a way of being stubborn.

Seeing timber being called by its smallest dimension first has become common to us Brits as in 2X4s, 4x8s etc., because we watvh a fair bit of US woodworking, but I still prefer our way. I'm a bit too long in the tooth to change now.

 

[Scruples]

I'm doing a course and the first project is to build a mobile workbench.

Before I make the first daunting call, I just want to make sure I use the correct terminology so it's clear what I'm asking for.

The project stipulates 2x "boards" which are basically two "two by fours" approx 2.5m / 8ft long. I also need one plywood sheet, approx 19 mm x 1.219 m x 2.438 m.

Is what I've written clear enough and reasonable enough language to use? "boards" to me seems a little vague - maybe I'm over thinking it but I think might more commonly called something else. Also, knowing when to use imperial or metric drives me a little nuts.

The spec sheet doesn't stipulate the species of wood, but I guess that's dictated for me by the size and what's commonly used/available? I'm not particular about the species, but I think 2x4's are typically pine.

In the UK, 8ft and 2.438m stock is 2.4m when you buy them, and 4ft and 1.219m stock is 1.2m although the sizes can vary slightly because of cutting and shrinkage.

 

[Katomi woodsmith]

I too am a child of feet and inches, plus g dad, dad were builders so I grew up “seeing” in feet and inches. Left school and went into welding... so out went deg’s f and had to learn deg’s C
Feet and inch weren’t replaced but I had to learn mm’s and fractions of mm’s pie went from 3.142 to 3.14159
I still “see” in feet and inches but then the limited grey matter kicks in and converts to mm’s never did learn cm’s ant meters
My conversation when buying wood is something like
“3.8m 50*75 mm.”
My reply “ok what’s that’s in old money?”