Well, someone was bound to start this thread so,....

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graduate_owner

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Might as well be me. Subject? New Year's Resolution of course although a little early. Mine is to get my pigsty sorted so it resembles a workshop again. It is so disheartening to even contemplate but really needs doing badly. I am fed up of apologising when visitors see it, I am fed up of climbing over oddments of timber, and I am fed up of not being able to find what I want even though I know it is in there somewhere. Things have got to change.

K
 
I am going on a diet.
...........just the same as for the past 45 years of New Years resolutions
 
Actually I managed to succeed at last years resolution.. mind you it took 20 years of the same resolution to do it, so I'm not making any more for the sake of my sanity :)
 
I intend to get some more woodworking done. I've got the wood and some design ideas so I just need to get started.

I have found in the past that writing up projects on here is a great help in keeping going through to completion, past that easy daydreaming stage where nothing has gone wrong, so I shall be doing that again.
 
AndyT":zrtcmalz said:
I intend to get some more woodworking done. I've got the wood and some design ideas so I just need to get started.

I have found in the past that writing up projects on here is a great help in keeping going through to completion, past that easy daydreaming stage where nothing has gone wrong, so I shall be doing that again.

Great
I like your write ups
I even break out into a vicarious sweat when you hand saw all that wood :lol: :lol:
 
AndyT":2hqtxsms said:
I intend to get some more woodworking done. I've got the wood and some design ideas so I just need to get started.

I have found in the past that writing up projects on here is a great help in keeping going through to completion, past that easy daydreaming stage where nothing has gone wrong, so I shall be doing that again.

That's a good idea Andy, there were a few builds I wanted to do last year but never did in the end, doing a write up forces one's hand so to speak.
 
Selwyn, I have trouble with moles too and I thought it would be a job for an experienced catcher, but it turns out to be quite straightforward. I asked for a quote from a mole catcher - £100 set up fee and £10 per mole caught. I have since found some that do not charge a set up fee, and £6 per mole, but after the shock of the initial quote I decided to try it myself and I'm glad I did.

Basically you need the following kit -

Mole traps (obviously) and. I use the ones with two pairs of curved jaws held apart by a piece of metal with a 1 1/2" or so hole in. They cost me £5 each. Then you need a metal rod, and I use a piece of steel about 2' 6" long, 1" x 1/4" or so in section. Do not sharpen the end. Finally you need a trowel, a kneeling pad, a plastic sheet and something to use as a marker such as a bit of stick, plastic rod, whatever.

So, you go to a fresh mole hill and you poke about in the ground until the metal rod goes in easily, indicating you have found a tunnel (tape around one ond of the steel makes this easier on the hands). If you had sharpened the steel then it would go in easily everywhere and so would not help to locate the tunnel. You put the plastic sheet on the grass with the kneeling pad on top - not essential of course but makes life easier on the knees ( I'm 67 !!) and the plastic stops the moisture from the grass from seeping through into the kneeling pad.
Then you use the trowel to dig around to expose the tunnel, insert the set trap in line with the tunnel, and cover up to exclude light. You must make sure the soil you put back does not interfere with the trap so I use the grass clod I removed when digging out to stop the backfill soil from falling into the hole. You must exclude all light or the mole will stay away.
Finally you stick your marker in the ground so you know where the trap is - sounds trivial but we have moles in a field and it is a big area to have to search.

Final point. I borrowed some traps - great, caught 4 moles straighg away. Returned the traps and bought my own, and they were useless. An online search showed the reason - the jaws need to be curved, mine were straight. This meant the jaws were too long, and to clear the bottom of the tunnel to allow the jaws to close I had to position the trap too high - the moles were going under the trap and springing it, but not getting caught. I bent the jaws by hammering in the vice, and now I'm catching them again.
You can find help online, and see pictures of what I mean by the traps having unsuitable jaws.

Hope this helps. Try it, it is not as difficult as people seem to think.

K

Edit - where in West Wales are you?
 
graduate_owner":1zdimw8n said:
Selwyn, I have trouble with moles too and I thought it would be a job for an experienced catcher, but it turns out to be quite straightforward. I asked for a quote from a mole catcher - £100 set up fee and £10 per mole caught. I have since found some that do not charge a set up fee, and £6 per mole, but after the shock of the initial quote I decided to try it myself and I'm glad I did.

Basically you need the following kit -

Mole traps (obviously) and. I use the ones with two pairs of curved jaws held apart by a piece of metal with a 1 1/2" or so hole in. They cost me £5 each. Then you need a metal rod, and I use a piece of steel about 2' 6" long, 1" x 1/4" or so in section. Do not sharpen the end. Finally you need a trowel, a kneeling pad, a plastic sheet and something to use as a marker such as a bit of stick, plastic rod, whatever.

So, you go to a fresh mole hill and you poke about in the ground until the metal rod goes in easily, indicating you have found a tunnel (tape around one ond of the steel makes this easier on the hands). If you had sharpened the steel then it would go in easily everywhere and so would not help to locate the tunnel. You put the plastic sheet on the grass with the kneeling pad on top - not essential of course but makes life easier on the knees ( I'm 67 !!) and the plastic stops the moisture from the grass from seeping through into the kneeling pad.
Then you use the trowel to dig around to expose the tunnel, insert the set trap in line with the tunnel, and cover up to exclude light. You must make sure the soil you put back does not interfere with the trap so I use the grass clod I removed when digging out to stop the backfill soil from falling into the hole. You must exclude all light or the mole will stay away.
Finally you stick your marker in the ground so you know where the trap is - sounds trivial but we have moles in a field and it is a big area to have to search.

Final point. I borrowed some traps - great, caught 4 moles straighg away. Returned the traps and bought my own, and they were useless. An online search showed the reason - the jaws need to be curved, mine were straight. This meant the jaws were too long, and to clear the bottom of the tunnel to allow the jaws to close I had to position the trap too high - the moles were going under the trap and springing it, but not getting caught. I bent the jaws by hammering in the vice, and now I'm catching them again.
You can find help online, and see pictures of what I mean by the traps having unsuitable jaws.

Hope this helps. Try it, it is not as difficult as people seem to think.

K

Edit - where in West Wales are you?

What happens to the mole?

Edit : Oh - those kinds of traps :( ... having read about this, it appears that killing them instantly is the most humane way.

The Guild of British Molecatcher's website. It had the following things to say about a live trap;

The Guild believes that Live Traps should be withdrawn from public sale and supply under the un-necessary stress that these traps may cause in their use.
Any captured mole would be subjected to dehydration and stress - followed by possible starvation from any prolonged period of time encased in the tight cylindrical shape.
The capture of a live mole would be with the intent to release at another location, which could also produce the mole further distress from the inability of the release point to provide adequate supply of natural available food.
The enormous work required to complete this task, if the mole had been released into an environment that has the required amount of food accessible to survive, could still result in the death of the mole due to tiredness from the ordeal. Death would obviously occur faster if inadequate food was available.
The territorial instincts of moles and the aggression they show to another of the same species would if a live captured mole was to be freed into a location of an existing mole, result in conflict. The captured mole would if suffering the effects of capture, be met with hostility that could cause further injury.
 
Same as last year - trying to end the year with fewer cats than before. Last year successful and we are down to the last one now. Muhahahaha! Sorry cat lovers I cannot bear them
 
The ultra sonic PIR cat scarers work well, but you have to move them around the garden every few days, as the cats soon learn exactly where to step to not set them off.

Mine worked extremely well aimed at a back garden hedge that was a main cat thoroughfare.
All except next doors cat, and after watching it ignore the machine several times, I asked the question of its owner, and yes, it was deaf.
 
The traps are intended to kill instantly, but being underground it is not possible to check on this. I don't like killing them but they really do make a mess. The mole hills can't be seen once the grass grows, and then the mower blades hit them and get damaged. Harrowing helps to spread them but my fields are usually too wet to harrow early in the season when the grass is short. So unfortunately the moles have to be controlled.


K
 
Getting back to the original subject, I went into the worksty today with the intention of starting a tidy up. Boy, was it cold. Quick look around, then lock the door and back to the house for a cuppa.
Perhaps I will try again when the cold snap ends.

K
 
Getting back to the moles - there's a body of opinion that they are a net advantage - aerating and draining the soil and bringing up nice clean soil free of pests. They eat worms but also other undesirable insects; larvae, leather jackets, millipedes etc.
 
In the spirit of the original post: Lose four stone, finish 'tuit' list (now on two sides of A4), finish "worksty" extension (to allow workpieces over 6' to be completed inside four walls), move nose hair back to crown of head, retire, buy car high enough off ground to accomodate wonky hips, intransigent vertebrae and huffy kneecap [I'm an ex-second row forward], find Jacob, buy him a nice Bushmills for entertaining us all these years. Then, the second week....

Sam
 
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