Wedged through tenon

[MikeG.]

I'm astonished at the width of some of the wedges.

And personally I would try to keep the flare and my wedges as fine as is possible consistent with doing the job.
S

I'm with you two. I was incredulous about the size of the flare in the photo that Mark T posted, but kept quiet in case the way I had done it through trial and error was wrong!!! So long as the glue sticks, (and it is long-grain to long-grain, so it should stick well), any taper or flare at all will lock that joint solid.

Mike

 

[MarkT]

I do the saw kerf in the tenon going towards the edge of the tenon - not straight down.

This means you can have a thicker wedge and a nice big flare if you want one because there's not so much wood to be shifted when you bang the wedge in. If you overdo it a bit any splitting should hopefully be confined inside the tenon and never seen. That's the theory anyway! Of course, this is only worth the risk if you like the look of the chunky wedge.

 

[CHJ]

Welcome to the forum MarkT, Your post was caught by the spam trap, it will leave you alone after a few posts.

 

[Mr Ed]

any taper or flare at all will lock that joint solid.

I'm with Mike - I don't see the need for a huge flare, as a wedge only needs to spread the tenon slightly. As soon as it is bigger than the hole its locked tight and not going anywhere.

There is probably a slight distinction to be made between joints constructed for decorative effect and those intended to deal with high structural loads. In most of my applications I'm doing it mainly for appearance, although it obviously adds a structural benefit.

Cheers, Ed

 

[MarkT]

Absolutely - there is no need - I'm with Mike too. Even with an ultra-slender wedge, if you didn't glue it you'd have a serious job getting it apart.

 

[PerranOak]

Fabulous pics and explanations!

Right. I think I have it now. One last question:

when doing the dry-run before final glue-up, do you bang the wedges in all the way to assess the fit?

 

[MikeG.]

Fabulous pics and explanations!
Right. I think I have it now. One last question:
when doing the dry-run before final glue-up, do you bang the wedges in all the way to assess the fit?

No. There is no need for any wedging during a dry fit. Don't worry.........it works!!

Mike

 

[woodbloke]

Nice, tenon Rob! Would you be willing to share what procedure you use for rounding over the protruding bit of tenon - I never get mine as neat as I would like :?

Thanks

Marcus.

As others have said, once the wedges start to go in the joint becomes almost impossible to break apart again so you need to double check that the size of the saw cut, the length of the wedge and the tenon 'flare' are all spot on.

Marcus - I use skew chisels to shape the end grain (being very careful not to let the points score the surface ) then a shoulder plane is used with zero projection on the side (again for the same reason) to round over the long section, after which it's smoothing off with grades of sandpaper wrapped round small sticks - Rob

 

[gidon]

I'm not sure if you use wedges inside the tenon (not at the sides) you need to splay the mortise. You could easily end up splitting the tenon. And there's going to be guesswork to get it right. Plus this joint would be used more decoratively than structurally surely. This joint does have the added benefit of closing up any gaps at the sides of the through M&T!

For doors and windows, end wedged tenons (wedges hammered in at the sides of the tenon) would be more appropriate since you then do splay the mortise and hammer in wedges to lock the joint, and provide structural stength. But I'm very happy to be corrected by a joiner!

Cheers

Gidon