Wd40 for use as a lubricant with scary sharp?

[ByronBlack]

I've lost my bottle of camellia oil, and was wondering whether there is any adverse effects with using wd40 with the 3m lapping papers for sharpening chisels and blades? I'm paranoid about rust, could using this and then storing the tools expose them to the possibility of rust?

 

[wizer]

I'm sure I read somewhere once that WD40 can promote rust?

Even if it does, as long as you wipe everything down it should be ok. I uses 3in1 Oil before I got Camelia. Ultimately, why not just buy some more Camelia?

 

[ByronBlack]

I'm sure I read somewhere once that WD40 can promote rust?

Even if it does, as long as you wipe everything down it should be ok. I uses 3in1 Oil before I got Camelia. Ultimately, why not just buy some more Camelia?

I've cleaned the chisels well after sharpening, and have coated them with furniture polish, (a tip from blister) to help with the rust issue.

The only reason I've asked about WD40 is that I have 5 cans of the stuff and I really like it as a sharpening medium, and if there are no adverse affects, then it will be useful to use the cans up.

 

[Karl]

I use WD40 to lubricate my diamond stone without any issues. Don't "protect" the blades afterwards either.

Cheers

Karl

 

[woodbloke]

BB - WD40 will be fine, Camilla Oil will slow down the rate of cut as it's thick and gloopy but use it on all your blades at the end of each working session. I use paraffin on my 3M papers but any thin hydrocarbon will do the job...you could use water at a pinch - Rob

 

[Benchwayze]

I can't see why not Byron.
If water on a water or diamond stone doesn't affect tools (Given careful drying) then I'm sure WD 40 should be okay as long as you clean well afterwards.

I use WD40 mainly as a lubricant on my Triton, but it's also great for removing sticky residue from Bar-code labels!

For keeping my cast 'ironware' shiny and bright I use Briwax.

I haven't tried camellia oil, so I can't comment, other than, if it's what you normally use, why not do as Tom suggests?

regards
John

 

[Harbo]

Randall Knives (USA) recommend WD40 for honing.

Rod

 

[ByronBlack]

Thanks for the feedback chaps, I'll continue to use it. I didn't want to have to spend out on some camellia oil if the bulk load of WD40 I have is good to use. Using it on the white 3M paper, it really does cut quickly, I managed to re-grind new primary bevels on a set of AI chisels in about 10 mins.

 

[woodbloke]

Using it on the white 3M paper, it really does cut quickly, I managed to re-grind new primary bevels on a set of AI chisels in about 10 mins.

If that's the bendy stuff that Matthew sells (100g) how the hell to you stick it down? With anything I've tried it just lifts after about 10 mins :x ...haven't tried d/s tape though yet - Rob

 

[ByronBlack]

Rob, I first roll it the other way for a short while to help flatten it out, and then I used 3M craft adhesive spray - I use a piece of MDF to push down on it for a few mins, and then it's pretty much stuck for good unless I manage to rip it with too much exuberance

 

[woodbloke]

I've used a spray adhesive and then cramped it in the vice for 30 mins...still no good. I have though, been trying to glue it to 10mm plate glass which might not have been too clever, some mdf would have been better I suspect - Rob

 

[chingerspy]

I stick down Halfords wet'n'dry with double sided carpet tape straight onto 18mm MDF. I found yesterday that getting it off again is tricky! I think the tape has reacted in some way and has gone pretty gummy. The backing came off the paper and had to be scraped away.

 

[Benchwayze]

I stick down Halfords wet'n'dry with double sided carpet tape straight onto 18mm MDF. I found yesterday that getting it off again is tricky! I think the tape has reacted in some way and has gone pretty gummy. The backing came off the paper and had to be scraped away.

Cheaper than replacing a nice thick piece of glass though, eh? :wink:

Regards
John

 

[ByronBlack]

I've used a spray adhesive and then cramped it in the vice for 30 mins...still no good. I have though, been trying to glue it to 10mm plate glass which might not have been too clever, some mdf would have been better I suspect - Rob

Yes, glass for me has never worked too well - I used MDF as my substrate now and just replace it every now and then when it becomes too dirty/warped. My local homebase sell MDF off-cuts for 50p and they always seem to be exactly the right size.

 

[woodbloke]

I've used a spray adhesive and then cramped it in the vice for 30 mins...still no good. I have though, been trying to glue it to 10mm plate glass which might not have been too clever, some mdf would have been better I suspect - Rob

Yes, glass for me has never worked too well - I used MDF as my substrate now and just replace it every now and then when it becomes too dirty/warped. My local homebase sell MDF off-cuts for 50p and they always seem to be exactly the right size.

BB - the glass was clearly the problem (you might need to think about that for a mo'...on t'other hand :lol: ) - Rob

 

[OldWood]

I'm sure I read somewhere once that WD40 can promote rust?

Wizer - as WD40 was originally developed to protect ICBMs in ground based silos from corrosion (at least that's what I've always been lead to believe!), I very much doubt it would encourage corrosion. I think it is an accepted fact that WD40 stands for Water Dispersant No 40 - the 39 previous attempts may well rotted whatever they were sprayed onto.

Rob

 

[head clansman]

Hi

I have used wd40 since longer than i can remember for just about everything to do in the workshop, when it get too cold in the workshop for the winter, a large lump of rag liberally coated in wd40 all steel tools get a good coating from planes chisels and saws in fact just about all my hand tools all get a real good soaking ,all are place back in the tool chest , when the box is reopened come warmer weather they are all rust free.

I use to do the same on my old machine beds as well , but now all of them have been replace with new machines I now use liberon lubricating wax on them. hc

 

[jimi43]

WD40 is

50%: Stoddard solvent (i.e., mineral spirits -- primarily hexane, somewhat similar to kerosene)
25%: Liquefied petroleum gas (presumably as a propellant; carbon dioxide is now used instead to reduce WD-40's considerable flammability)
15+%: Mineral oil (light lubricating oil)
10-%: Inert ingredients

according to WIKIPEDIA

It was developed to disperse water and prevent corrosion. The solvents carry the mineral oil to the required places then evaporate to leave the oil.

Therefore it is ideal for honing and for preventing corrosion.

There has been a huge amount of viral rubbish which is believed to eminate from competitors to send out a negative image of WD40 as it predominates the market share.

It certainly DOES NOT promote corrosion.

It is also tremendous for shining vinyl such as on car bumpers and dashboards of newer Landrovers....a tip shown to me by an old guy in Stanley where there are nothing but Rovers.

I use Camelia Oil for honing with 3M...sometimes I finish with green cutting paste mixed with Camelia Oil and it makes the edge so sharp it scares the living crap out of me....like that razor feel when you touch it!

I did both (yes I now have two) my Japanese chisels with this method and they par to perfection now...

3M Micro Mesh...the main ingredient in "Scary Sharp" other than float glass...is the dogs ******....super stuff and tough as hell. Go up the meshes from 1500 to 12000 and you can't get a better finish. Great for lapping too once you get the surface reasonably flat with courser grits

Jim

 

[Mike H]

I get very good results with just water, and the results are much the same as camelia Oil. I never stoke forward, just a few short backward strokes, so that a third sheet lasts ages. I just wipe the tool on my hand to strop and dry.

Water has the advantage that Japanese Waterstones can also be used in the process if needed.

I have found that cleaning the glass with acetone first improves adhesion with even PSA sheet.

Mike H

New to contribute but a long term fan of the site.

 

[Eric The Viking]

I've used a spray adhesive and then cramped it in the vice for 30 mins...still no good. I have though, been trying to glue it to 10mm plate glass which might not have been too clever, some mdf would have been better I suspect - Rob

I use mainly Axminster wet+dry, but both it and the Toolstation stuff come in flattish sheets.

Scotch (3M) Spray-Mount sticks it down (spray onto the back of the paper, not the glass - it's cleaner that way), and then a wallpaper seam roller (no bubbles) to ease it onto a 10mm glass plate, working from the centre outwards. I use a whole sheet at a time, and have room for two on the plate glass, great for flattening plane soles.

I find it only lifts if I use water, and even then only after a while. If I use a little spray, all the paper will come off in one go. If I'm over-generous, some gets left behind, but I can clean the glass surface with a Stanley knife blade and meths (let it stay damp for a while).

Works for me