Wadkin planer - moving...

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mickthetree":2xgvnvi7 said:
will make sure I take the right sockets and spanners.
Always worth taking a full range with you.
I've often found that an odd nut and bolt has been replaced with a similar sized one that came to hand in the past that's a different size.
 
There are specialist machine-moving firms, but they usually charge by the day or by the hour. By the time they've got there, loaded it, driven to you, unloaded and returned to base, it'll be at least half a day, so expect to pay £300 or more.

Moving something like that piece-small would be much easier and cheaper. Couple of tips - if you have to disconnect electrics between switch and motor, make a labelled sketch of how it was wired up BEFORE you disconnect anything. You might think you can remember, but... Also, take some small BA type spanners and a couple of screwdrivers. Good quality adjustable spanners can be very handy, but don't bother with the cheap ones. If you're really stuck with hex fasteners, using a slightly oversize open-ended spanner and slipping a coin between nut flat and spanner flat can sometimes get you there ( handily, the different denominations of the coinage of the realm vary a bit in thickness!). Can't do that with sockets or ringies, though.

There's a lot of moving you can do with a pinchbar and rollers, but take your time - it's easy for things to get out of control. Push low down or ease it along with the pinchbar - don't push high up; tipping things over is depressingly easy. Never put your fingers under anything unless it's firmly supported on wooden packing.

If you can hire or borrow a pallet truck, they make moving things that are just too awkward to carry much easier, provided the ground is flat and solid.

If steps are involved - even quite small ones - better to move in carryable pieces. Getting heavy machines up an down flights of stairs is possible, but not easy!

Take your time, lift carefully, secure loads before driving and you'll be fine. Enjoy!
 
Cheshirechappie":3lrrvg8e said:
Couple of tips - if you have to disconnect electrics between switch and motor, make a labelled sketch of how it was wired up BEFORE you disconnect anything. You might think you can remember, but...
I think you can extend that to all parts before disassembly.
I find a digital camera absolutely invaluable for this. Take loads of photographs before taking things apart and if there's the slightest complexity, take more as you take bits apart. Close ups and wider shots. It costs nothing, it's very quick and can be an absolute job saver when trying to work out what bit fitted where when you come to reassemble it all after the excitement/stress of purchase and removal.
 
Hi Mick. Just got your PM.

I have the three cutter block and the finish is fantastic. Setting the knives with the bloody spring loaded block is another story though... are you getting the setting tool?

To remove the tables you need to have the base off and the main body of the planer upside down. If you look at page 6 of the manual you will see that the tables run up and down on rods (No.36) that are bolted to the tables and locate into two corresponding channels in the body. The tables are then held against the body by the assembly shown underneath the right hand table in the diagram. It's this assembly/mechanism that needs unbolting to release the tables. IIRC it was fairly easy to do.

I hope that makes sense, it was a while ago I did this myself and can't remember the exact details.

http://www.wadkin.com/uploads/files/Wad ... 0(9%20inch)%20Planer%20Manual%20&%20Parts%20List.pdf

Are you planning to take the tables off to move it?
 
Well...I was until I read that!! Turning the whole thing over sounds horrific!! It looks like the planer can be removed from the base from the drawings. Is that right? 21 being the sub base and 5 being the sheet steel base. Being off the base in the back of the van would put me more at ease. Lower centre of gravity.

I have got a van and a pallet truck so maybe I dont need to remove them now. I would rather for the journey but I could could strap it to a pallet and strap the pallet to the van floor.

I havent asked about the setting tool, but the manual also says it is sort of essential. I have always managed to do my CT150 manually with perfect results. I'll ask the seller and see if he has it.

It states 235kg which is doable with two people and some boards.
 
Over flat surfaces 2 pallet trucks is good. We moved a big one but one truck wasn't enough - difficult to get it under the centre of gravity.
 
Mick

I'll have a proper look at it when I get home and get back to you. I don't trust my memory.
 
I assume you'll need to push it up a ramp onto and off the van. What I would do is make a dolly for it out of 4"x3" with lockable casters. Jack it up and slide the dolly under it. I'd rig up a winch to drag it up the ramp onto the van (in my case I have a 12v winch designed for such things), this can also be used to lower it back off at your destination. Obviously plenty of rtatchet straps to hold it down in transit.
 
Just been out for a look round...

There is a 5" dia hole below the switch panel that you can use to access the bolts that hold the three main sections together. (Looks like this is the purpose of the hole as there is no other way of accessing the bolts that I can see) The bolts securing the sheet steel stand to the sub base are easy to reach and can be seen when you look through the hole.(take a torch) The studs that hold the sub base to the main body aren't visible but can be loosened with the aid of an extension bar. You'll need to fondle about in the dust to find them but it is do-able. The drive belts and cover are the only other thing that you'll need to remove but those are a doddle.

If you are breaking it into the three sections, start at the top and work down.

I would recommend at least taking it off of the stand as these things are very tippy. I've had a few brown trouser moments when moving mine around the workshop. I reckon the base only weighs about 35kilos leaving about 200 up top.

Setting the knives isn't impossible without the tool but it would be nice to have.
 
I have one of these too off eBay which is getting delivered Monday on a pallet. In a previous post it mentioned going on Internet to get correct procedure for lifting . I can't find this though .

How are you supposed to lift it without using the top tables ? Surely it's impossible ? Unless you have a trolly , which in my case won't work as there are two thresholds to cross and a set of stairs !
 
You can lift by the tops but just don't hold the ends of the tables, grab them as close to the middle as possible.

To be honest the tables are so damn thick it probably won't matter anyway.

It is seriously heavy but two of us managed to man handle it.

So so pleased with mine. It's a fantastic bit of kit.
 
Well according to the wadkin literature it's about 185 kg , which is about 30kg lighter than my table saw which me and my dad lifted in , so hoping it will be ok
 
It would transpire the Wadkin literature was "optimistic" in term of weight or I had the wrong manual.....Weighed an absolute tonne ! Got it in though and what a machine ! So very pleased.
 

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