wadkin PK restoration

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cheers Van, I've got one sorted a bit closer to home. I got Matt Matts drawings but i thought the real thing would be easier to copy.
 
I had a rummage around my junk piles and found these which I'm going to try and make into a crown guard and support.

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I'm copying off the holy grail brass crown guard

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wallace":2ayrlg9r said:
I had a rummage around my junk piles and found these which I'm going to try and make into a crown guard and support.

If that's what you've got in your junk piles I would love to look at your "not junk" piles!
 
I've got that much junk I had to requisition my kids wendy house as an overflow, she doesn't need it now shes 20 years old.

To secure the fixing for bar I drilled and tapped it.

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Followed by a bit crow poo braze

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A bit filler

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And a splash of etch primer

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The nuts to tighten the bar clamps are missing so I remembered I had some offcuts of stair rods

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A bit more done, it was only 5 degrees so not the best weather to be spraying. Luckily this enamel is very forgiving and doesn't need perfect conditions for a decent finish. I did put the pieces under a chicken brooding lamp for a bit though.

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For the arms I got some round bar from a local fabrication place for the princely sum of £6

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My bitsa support seems to work pretty well

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This saw was missing a couple of adjustable pin that the sliding table runs on, I asked this guy to do them and he kindly agreed

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GoS6ipDd-bM&t=26s

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HLxiO0ui2qM
 
That is just so unbelievably impressive i'm speechless!

How on earth do you get the metal ware like wheels etc from being so rusty, back to a polished chrome? Do they sit in a solution of do you just go at them by hand and finish with brasso I have no idea
 
Things made from cast aluminium always looks a lot worse than they really are, Its just a matter of sanding through the grits and then polishing on a mop. Obviously steel takes more effort.
 
These are the eccentric pins that hold the bearing for the sliding table. Two of them were missing so I asked that doubleboost of youtube to make a couple, which he kindly did. The one on the right is the wadkin one.

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Bearings installed

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It was also missing a couple of the pins that hold plain bearings for lateral adjustment of the slider.
Luckily I had a couple spare that Matt Matt made for me a few years ago.

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I made some brass covers for the bearings

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This poor pk was also missing its extension for the table.

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All finished

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Nice to see a machine get another life of use rather than being shoved in the crusher for a couple quid scrap metal just because of a couple missing pieces.
 
The fine adjuster part is exactly the same as a pk one, the only difference is the EQ ones don't tilt. The guides on the bottom of the fence fit the dovetail slot in the table perfectly. I'd been searching for a pk fence for years so I think this is a good compromise.
 
more done, I'm pleased the motor was ok after spending 4 years outside. Bearings in good shape so just flushed and repacked.

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After much filling and sanding a few coats of primer

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Followed by the usual RAL 7011 enamel

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Theres no reason to paint inside other than it looks good

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This saw was missing its fence, its original fence ended up in canada. I've been looking for a fence for years so in the end I got the fence off a EQ spindle moulder which has the same fine adjuster but it doesnt tilt. I think it should work well and I think the provision to use the EQ's hold downs which go into the top of the fence will be quite usefull.

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That hand screw Knob is paramount. You can't mistake a Wadkin Spindle Moulder split fence. Brilliant use as a substitute rip fence. Tony
 
More done, to remove he handle from the handwheel is pretty easy, just drill the peened over end a bit and knock it out.

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The handles look a bit rough but since they are made from horn they clean up really easy. Stick the stub in a drill, hold some sandpaper and spin it in your hand, go through the grits and finish with t-cut

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The handwheels are in great shape and just needed putting in the lathe and used grey then red scotchbrite before polishing.

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This machine looked in bad order but the more I dig into its obvious it was well cared for.

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I tried gun bluing for blackening some bolt heads

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And just a little bling

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Thanks for the great thread! I was wondering, after removing the horn handles, how you put them back in? I would think there wouldn’t be enough material left to re-peen it? Thanks!
 

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