Wadkin free standing tool rest question

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Agreed as well. A washer should work in the circumstance you describe - unless of course the washer thickness is exactly the same as the thread pitch :wink:

Cheers, Vann.
 
The two bolts work in different ways. the larger one pinches across the width of the hole, and (due to a slit in the side) makes the hole a smaller diameter, clamping the shaft like a drill press base as previously discussed. Putting different washers behind the handle will change the point at which it tightens until I find a combination that fits.

The smaller one isnt really a clamp, it just has a threaded hole through the side, and the arm is just a bolt that goes through and presses on the side of the toolrest shaft to hold it still. So to change the point at which it tightens I need to shorten or lengthen the end of the bolt slightly.

The graduate (only on the main banjo for some reason) has a small brass fitting, like a bolt with no thread, which is pushed into the end of the clamp bolt. I intend to replicate this, then I can easily file the end of the brass part until the position of the handle is correct.
 
Ahh. Okay, I understand now. I call those brass pieces "slugs" - but there's probably a real name for them.

Cheers, Vann.
 
Gotcha too. But why not just file the end of the bolt? From your picture, assuming it is fully clamped, you need to remove a bit from the bolt: quarter to half a thread, so it won't take much. I shouldn't think it would be a very hard steel.
 
Yes filing the end of the bolt a bit would also work. I have found that using a steel pinch bolt when done up tight will sometimes mark the toolpost shaft, and give it a small burr which then binds when trying to rotate/remove it. The brass "slug" spreads the force out and prevents this, so its the better choice.
 
If you've got access to brazing equipment you could put a bit on the end of the thread and file to suit. I had a bit of brass rod I cut a slice off and put in the hole for my RS toolrest to cure the same problem.
 
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