Wadkin 10 AGS rip fence replacment
- Thread starter Willis88
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Cabinetman
Established Member
If you don’t have any luck it’s quite possible to make a whole new wooden fence, I did it to replace a 4ft long Aluminium one on my SCM combination machine including the clamping arrangement, (square tube on mine). And it works a whole lot better than what it replaced! After all the fence shouldn’t be over long for safety reasons. The one I made can easily slide in and out to be the correct length.
Pics if wanted. Ian
Pics if wanted. Ian
Hi Ian,
I don't think I explained properly, it's not so much the fence as the locking mechanism for it. Now when locking the whole fence still has a bit of play in it
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There is an AGS10 fence on ebay, look under the sold items as the listing ended without sale. However it is ÂŁ280.
There are lots of rip fence kits that bolt onto the front edge of the table, you'd need to drill new mounting holes. I bought a Kreg fence for my bandsaw that was a huge upgrade on the origninal startrite one. The Incra tablesaw fences look awesome but are very expensive. There are also lots of videos of DIY ones.
There are lots of rip fence kits that bolt onto the front edge of the table, you'd need to drill new mounting holes. I bought a Kreg fence for my bandsaw that was a huge upgrade on the origninal startrite one. The Incra tablesaw fences look awesome but are very expensive. There are also lots of videos of DIY ones.
Cabinetman
Established Member
Sorry yes I wasn’t explaining myself, I meant this could replace the broken casting, you would make a wooden piece that slides and locks on the rail and fasten your fence onto it, or replace the whole thing of course.
Ian
Oh that's interesting, yes pictures please Ian
Just a suggestion, as an interim, buy yourself a solid flange bridge bearing of the right inner diameter. Hack saw off a bit to allow it to go over the bolts and simply epoxy resin it in place. Alternatively a bit of appropriate steel seemless pipe can also be used.
Cabinetman
Established Member
Firstly I made a mistake and should have oriented the bottom block the other way, so I reinforced it with screws, works fine. It’s Ash btw.
So I have replicated the original cast iron bit in wood that slides up and down, and I used a ring bolt to apply pressure onto the rail, the rail is protected by a piece of Formica laminate, obviously there is a trapped nut inside the wooden block.
The fence slides up and down on the side of the block and is secured using two Carriage bolts, wingnuts waiting to be replaced by something nicer. It would have been better if I had used a thicker piece of wood to cover the C/bolt heads. Amazingly it works perfectly and is a huge improvement on the awkward 4 ft long extrusion which can now be used purely as the Planer fence instead of having to take it off and mess about each time I change from sawing to planing. The Machine is a Minimax C28.
So I have replicated the original cast iron bit in wood that slides up and down, and I used a ring bolt to apply pressure onto the rail, the rail is protected by a piece of Formica laminate, obviously there is a trapped nut inside the wooden block.
The fence slides up and down on the side of the block and is secured using two Carriage bolts, wingnuts waiting to be replaced by something nicer. It would have been better if I had used a thicker piece of wood to cover the C/bolt heads. Amazingly it works perfectly and is a huge improvement on the awkward 4 ft long extrusion which can now be used purely as the Planer fence instead of having to take it off and mess about each time I change from sawing to planing. The Machine is a Minimax C28.
Did you ever get a new fence? I'm looking for one right now. Not too happy with the amount of play in the original or how much work it will be to tune and keep tuned. I've heard good things about the Scott and sergeant one but for 400 I'm wondering if I should just add an extra 200 and get incra.
Depends why there is play in the original. Wear or damage?
Can it be fixed? Seems a lot of money to spend on a fence.
I'd be looking around, especially if I wanted originality.
I'm honestly not too fussed about originality. I have the model with the fence that attaches front and back. I'm having a little bit of trouble with the rod that goes down the middle of it. If I have it tight enough. The fence won't move back and forward easily. But if I have it too loose there is too much play. Problably just need to spend more time on it and stop bitching. But I was using a multi thousand pound fence that had a digital display up to .00 of a millimeter or something stupid like that before i left. So I'm fussy.
