Very basic wood carving gouges - advice needed

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bp122

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Hello all

I am thinking of venturing into wood carving. Nothing of the sort of stuff people on here can muster, but just carving faint patterns etc.

I just have a set of normal chisels, but I want to get into carving curves.

What would the basic 2 or 3 gouges I need to get started? I got very confused with the sizing of different v gouges.

Eyeing a few small sets of very old 3 to 5 gouges on eBay, but don't know which one to go for.

Any advice would be appreciated.

Cheers
B
 
If you take a look at Peter Follansbee "Carving the S scroll" or any of the box carving videos he has on the Lie-Nielsen website or his blog, you should get a good idea of what to go for.
 
Carving is generally about getting the gouges for what you're carving. Follansbee has a relatively simple set of gouges because his stuff isn't relief carving, but rather repeated patterns.

The word carving covers about a zillion things. In terms of gouges, the older gouges of sort of the golden age (mid -age addis, etc) are generally made more nicely than new gouges, but pfeil does make nice tools - beware of gouges that are kind of fat with fat edges as they've been made with an eye toward low cost making and skipping on some of the grinding.

But also be careful if you're looking at buying old tools to make sure that what you're buying is mostly there as quite a few of the addis and other gouges (especially if you have a specific need) are mostly spent (spoon gouges, etc).

At any rate, you have to know what you're carving first or you can end up with tools that you never use. Someone I respect has done a lot of carving, but he's not a professional carver. I'd imagine he's got something like 100 gouges to do the menu of work he does, and a professional carver could have more if they take on commissions. It's easy to get a dozen tools and have a use for 1 or 2 of them.
 
I'm gonna go against many peoples advice and say buy a set of 6 or so. stubai are my personal favourites closely followed by Henry taylors. Taylors make a nice starter set at a good price. they are shiny.
my reason being it sounds like you want to have a go and in that case a set is as good as any.
 
Buying a set is a brilliant way to learn.

You'll find out which sizes you haven't got and at the same time be able to pack away the ones that never get used.
 
the above may be correct if you were anticipating becoming a dedicated niche carver. I know plenty of carvers who use sets and never buy others. starting with 5 simple shapes I doubt any of those chisels would " never get used" given no other chisels an experienced carver could produce amazing things with one gouge. I reckon the whole area is off putting and confusing for beginners. what would be off putting for me is the dreadful chisels that won't take a edge no matter how you sharpen. Ashley illes have taken the set concept to the next level( but I dislike illes gouges tbh)
 
I've got Ashley Iles gouges, both the early boxwood handled versions and the newer ash handled ones. I think they're pretty good, although they need a bit of extra work on the bevel.

They also carry a lifetime guarantee and are made in the UK too.
 
all the above is absolutely admirable and extremely positive but the ones I've had ( maybe 8 or 9) have been dreadfully chunky and not nice. few modern chisels compare to victorian/edwardian chisels but taylors and stubai and pfiel are close. maybe illes are better now.
beginners often get flexcut sets. I've never tried them so I couldn't comment on there utility but they are popular.
 
If by "basic" carving you mean something like this:
Gum leaves.jpg
Then you certainly don't need much in the way of tooling. I have a couple of dozen carving tools collected over the years, but I did those Eucalypt leaves with a skew, a small flat chisel (with a bent end, but an ordinary small flat chisel will do), and a couple of small gouges, one in-cannel (to make the insect bites) & one out-cannel ( preferably a bent one, for rapid stock removal where possible), and a small veining tool (which wasn't strictly necessary for that particular design). My initial 'set' for doing similar work was a cheap set of lino-cutting tools, which happily turned out to be of excellent steel, and which still serve me well for small stuff, though I gradually replaced them with more "full-sized" tools as opportunity or need arose.

My carving is very, very basic & my skills in that area vanishingly small, but I've managed to do what I needed, so far. What got me started was trying to match simple carving on old furniture I was repairing or on pieces made to fill out a set, etc. If you read about carving by a 'real' carver, you will be promptly put-off by the number of tools they use to do just about any job, but you can make-do with a vastly more limited number of tools at a pinch. It will take you longer, and the results may not be quite as slick as the pro's effort, but you can get very close. Matching old, worn carving is both easier (the cuts don't have to be as sharp) & harder (doing a bit of light distressing to try to match the wear & tear on the originals, & perhaps cover one's incompetence a little). ;)

Johhnyb's suggestion of a small set has merit, the tools chosen are usually pretty universal & likely to be of use to you in the future, whatever direction you take. Used tools can be a pig in a poke for a novice; you can end up with gold or garbage & everything in between, but as for all tools, once you get a vague idea of brands & know where you are going with your hobby it's probably the best way to acquire a working set of tools, imo (& you have the thrill of the chase)...

Whatever tools you buy lessons number one to three are learn to sharpen them well. When it comes to carving, sharp, & I mean really sharp tools are a joy, while even slightly un-sharp carving tools are frustration writ large and a greater danger to your person. Of course with any cutting tool, the sharper the better, but I think it's most important when carving because if you are struggling to make a tool cut, you can't concentrate on guiding & controlling it (damhik!).

That's 2c worth from someone with very limited carving experience...
:)
Cheers,
Ian
 
At any rate, you have to know what you're carving first or you can end up with tools that you never use. Someone I respect has done a lot of carving, but he's not a professional carver. I'd imagine he's got something like 100 gouges to do the menu of work he does, and a professional carver could have more if they take on commissions. It's easy to get a dozen tools and have a use for 1 or 2 of them.

Absolutely right. Try and decide what you want to carve first, difficult because until you try carving you are not sure what you will like! It does get addictive, and I buy every payday a new chisel…..yes I am at about a 100 right now. Don’t add it up, don’t add it up, dam, I added it up!

Buy good makes, new or second hand, if you don’t get on with carving you can sell them for not too much a loss. Check used prices against new prices, especially with larger or bent tools, the new ones are very near what some people are asking for clapped out used ones.
Chris Pye recommends a start pack of these, and you will do quite a bit with this selection.

“BEGIN WITH A FEW TOOLS:
Here are a few useful tools with which you can accomplish a lot of carving. Notice that they are all regular gouges”.
#3 gouges: ¼", ½", and ¾" (6mm, 13mm, 19mm) (flattest gouges in the maker’s range)
#6 gouges: ¼", ½", and ¾" (6mm, 13mm, 19mm) (middle gouges)
#9 gouges: ¼" and ½" (6mm, 13mm) (deepest, semicircular gouges)
⅜" (10mm) skew chisel
⅜" (10mm) 60˚ V-tool”

Excerpt From
Chris Pye's Woodcarving Course & Reference Manual (not a bad book for starting out, it will give you some pointers).
 
Thank you all for your responses.
At least I have a good set to aim for now. I have secured a set of 3 blockley v gouges from eBay. I shall see how I get on with them

Regarding my carving, I am only interested in carving letters and simple patterns (a very simple groove cut along a printed template stuck on wood) as a way of personalising my projects which are to be given as gifts, and not resort to using cnc or free hand routing.

Who knows, this may spark an interest to go deeply into it.
 
As per sharpening the gouges I have bought,
Screenshot_20211109-104210_eBay.jpg
shall I persevere with the current wetstones and diamond plates I have or should I get something specific like this:
Screenshot_20211109-104013_Chrome.jpg
 
all the above is absolutely admirable and extremely positive but the ones I've had ( maybe 8 or 9) have been dreadfully chunky and not nice. few modern chisels compare to victorian/edwardian chisels but taylors and stubai and pfiel are close. maybe illes are better now.
beginners often get flexcut sets. I've never tried them so I couldn't comment on there utility but they are popular.
It's true, they feel chunky, but it's the handles that make them so. The steel is a very similar thckness to pfeil although they don't taper in width along their length like the pfeil ones do, which also adds to the hefty feel.
 
auriou chisels are lovely as are mifer(spanish). the cannon brand (can't recall the name is it hill) are decent. my Chinese chisels are damn ggood and cheap but rough as a bears. my tiranti herring bros are the best I've ever used probably edwardian. marples are not as good as there chisels. there's not so many carving brands as chisels tbh.
the Chinese chisels were a purchase from dick probably 15 years ago. for little money they had socket gouges with laminated edges. and basically chisels with just a spike to be used by hand these were plain carbon steel.
all needed finishing a bit handle making and fitting and sharpen. they were made in donguan for the pro Chinese carver. put the effort in and these are superb.
 
they don't seem to stock the unhandled socket ones they also have the spike handled ones complete with handle and a hefty price taghttps://www.dictum.com/en/carving-sculpting-tools-baca/sculpting-tools-6-piece-set-700973
 
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