Veritas Wheel Marking gauge.

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You're pretty good at glossing windows by the looks of it!!
10 of them. All replicas of the originals. All new work except for the glass, and the curved glazing bars in each which were steam bent oak and still in good nick.
Actually re. marking up the old ones were interesting; the mortices were marked on one face of frames with knife lines, but around the other 3 faces by pencil. Pure guess but possibly the foreman did the knife marks from the rod which would fix them indelibly, but the bench hand followed on the other 3 sides in pencil.
 
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Do you make things at all yourself?
Joking aside - Yes I do....here is a small sample of the things I make. I've just started to learn to paint stained glass using the traditional methods, but I don't have a kiln at the moment. We're moving to Herefordshire on the 18th and I've got to build a new workshop so I'm out of action at the moment - all my tools are packed away.


Williams & Byrne do a really good online course - the best I've come across (in my limited experience). I also did a one day course with Derek Hunt at Ely Cathedral
 

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Peter, that is an excellent video, capturing all the qualities of a wheel gauge.

The question I must ask is whether that is a Tite-Mark gauge or a copy? Tite-Mark designed and still sell that model.

I do have both Tite-Mark and Veritas wheel gauges. I would give the nod to TM, but the Veritas a excellent, and indeed better in some ways. Micro adjust is not a necessity, and sometime just intrusive. Like many things, it comes down to personal preference and price.

I rarely use one gauge at a time, more usually two, but sometimes more. This is relevant to know since one really should budget (over time) on purchasing or making enough.



It is horses for courses: wheel gauges excel at cutting a very fine line. But this is always going to be shallow. That can be an issue with harder woods. Deeper lines are where woodies with knives come in. My favourite are the Japanese knife gauges. But a pin gauge/mortice gauge is still the best for marking end grain (such as lines for a tenon). Do not even bother to try this with a wheel gauge.



All get used. Some I made.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Hi Derek

Thanks for watching the video, sorry not a Tite-Mark original they were sold by Lie Nielsen in the Uk but almost 4 times the price and no longer available or out of stock.

It is good to have a range of gauges, I guess I have ten or more plus the students tool kits, I think most makers need at least two for hinges or lap dovetails as they are usually used in pairs with the two settings. It's also good to have them with the the cutters facing opposite directions as in the Veritas Dual marking gauge. I always like to have the bevel into the waste side of the line.

I agree that a well set up cutting gauge can give a cleaner crisper line across the grain but quality of cutting gauge blades available in the UK is generally very poor and replaced by the craftsman with a handmade blade or repurposed hack or jig saw blade.

I still enjoy using my wooden Joseph Marples marking gauges but most new comers get on much better with wheel marking gauges in my opinion and experience.

https://woodworkersworkshop.co.uk/joseph-marples/
Cheers

Peter
 
This is the biggest advantage I find. Additionally I like the functionality of the dual marking gauge so you can mark both sides of a M/T at the same time.

I do however use both new and old style. My storage of them is not as salubrious as Mr Cohen!
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I also have one of these which I love for the ease of setting a measurement and marking it. Always amazed at how accurate it is.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Igaging-Accumarking-Digital-Marking-Height/dp/B01M3P3K69
F.

Pleased you like the iGaging digital gauge, it is very good for accuracy and tired eyes!

Your link goes to our Amazon store, just to let members know its cheaper direct from our shop.

https://woodworkersworkshop.co.uk/igaging-digital-3-in-1-marking-gauge/
Cheers

Peter
 

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