Veritas Edge Plane

[Karl]

Does anybody use one when jointing boards? Perhaps flatten the length of the edge first, then use the Edge Plane to square the edge to a given reference face, then use the jointer again to take out any bumps introduced by the Edge Plane. Sounds long winded, but could be a good technique in theory.

I've always struggled a bit with the "wandering blade" method. Book matching is another option. I don't have a jointer (still working on my Wadkin restoration).

Cheers

Karl

 

[Mr Ed]

I find the wandering blade / hidden dragon method quite effective. What don't you like about it ?

Cheers, Ed

 

[Karl]

Too much faffing about with the marking, constant checking, sh!t taken too much off there. I can get good results that way, but it just takes so long.

There must be an easier way. :-k

Cheers

Karl

 

[MikeG.]

I find the wandering blade / hidden dragon method quite effective.
Cheers, Ed

How did Manuel put it?
-
-
-
-
Que?

What is this Eastern mystical method you have, Enlightened One?

Mike

 

[Woody Alan]

Does anybody use one when jointing boards?

An interesting one this. I didn't use one because I didn't have one. I always seemed to manage (and clearly that is still possible). However I was jointing some oak at the weekend and several pieces had gone according to plan, a few swipes with a no7 all OK, take 2=3 swipes then stop shaving and follow through with full swipes and bob's your uncle as usual.
Then I met the edge from ..well OK not hell... but it began to get tedious,(ed's wandering ..dragon) as much as I did the usual few strokes it would not square up. I got the pristine collecters Veritas edge jointer out and took several swipes (taking care not to lean on the nose to avoid distortion of the plane) and it squared it up in no time and then I went back to usual to get a long square edge...the only thing is how much have I reduced the value of a collectors item by using it :-( Oh what the hell It was a pleasure to use.
I have to say I could have corrected by feel with the No7 as I have before, but the edge jointer did it's job.

Alan

 

[TrimTheKing]

I find the wandering blade / hidden dragon method quite effective.
Cheers, Ed

How did Manuel put it?
-
-
-
-
Que?

What is this Eastern mystical method you have, Enlightened One?

Mike

Mike

It's the Charlesworth method of using a cambered blade and making slight lateral movements across the edge of a board to square it up when jointing. It enables you to take only half width shavings if necessary, if that makes sense

Mark

 

[Mr Ed]

I'm just being facetious because I always think wandering blade sounds like a kung fu movie, in the genre of Crouching tiger; Hidden dragon.

I don't do all the marking he does, I just check the board in a few places with a small square and then use a cambered blade to take more or less off one side depending on what is needed. I usually don't even take the board out of the vice to do it, just crouch down and sight along. All my boards have been machine planed first, so they're never that far off.

Laudible though it is, I think Mr. C's method is a bit too labourious for most of us.

Cheers, Ed

 

[Harbo]

It does take a fair bit of practice to stop the wander and book matching does help because of the extra width.
Fortunately I now have a jointer which I find gives a very good edge without further work

Rod

 

[Philly]

Karl
I've tried using an edge plane in the manner you suggest - sometimes it worked, other days it wouldn't, and I found that frustrating.
Something else to try - use your try plane but take a heavier shaving. I found that can make edge jointing easier - honest!
Philly

 

[Paul Chapman]

I've never used an edge plane and reckon it's better to concentrate on learning to plane without one. Where the boards are not too thick, by far the best method IMHO is to plane them together. I've always found this method foolproof because any discrepancy in one board is cancelled out by the other.

On cambered blades, David Charlesworth's method certainly works but it involves a lot of faffing about. His view (from what he says in one of his books) seems to be that you can't joint boards with a straight blade but I don't go along with that. If you used an edge plane or planed them with a long shooting board, you could do it OK with a straight blade. It therefore follows that it's about keeping the plane's sole at 90 degrees to the side of the board. The problem with this, it seems to me, is that once the shaving is travelling through the mouth of the plane, the plane will tend to follow any variation in the angle of the edge of the board. It therefore requires concentration and effective use of the fingers as a fence to counteract this.

I've never found this a problem - but then all my planing is done by hand so I get plenty of practice.

The bottom line is that you have to try different methods and see which one works best for you. All the various methods work.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[bugbear]

It's the Charlesworth method of using a cambered blade and making slight lateral movements across the edge of a board to square it up when jointing. It enables you to take only half width shavings if necessary, if that makes sense

Mark

No - half width shaving are a property of "the other method".

The cambered blade takes controlled tapered shavings.

I suppose if you went far enough "off line" you could take half width tapered shavings, but you then lose one on the advantages of the cambered blade method, which is a fully cut surface after each stroke.

see this (from an excellent thread)

http://www.woodcentral.com/cgi-bin/hand ... ead=133438

BugBear

 

[woodbloke]

I'm just being facetious because I always think wandering blade sounds like a kung fu movie, in the genre of Crouching tiger; Hidden dragon.

I don't do all the marking he does, I just check the board in a few places with a small square and then use a cambered blade to take more or less off one side depending on what is needed. I usually don't even take the board out of the vice to do it, just crouch down and sight along. All my boards have been machine planed first, so they're never that far off.

Laudible though it is, I think Mr. C's method is a bit too labourious for most of us.

Cheers, Ed

I do it pretty much the same way as Ed but I do take the board out of the vice and sight it against a light source so that even the tiniest discrepancy is easy to see - Rob

 

[Paul Chapman]

see this (from an excellent thread)

http://www.woodcentral.com/cgi-bin/hand ... ead=133438

Thanks for that link, BB - some good stuff. I particularly liked Joel's comment:

"It's really a question of practicing and developing hand memory. It's like riding a bicycle. Seems impossible to be balanced on that thing but once you get it - it's nearly impossible to be out of balance."

I think that sums it up.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[woodbloke]

The other crucial thing is that the bench front apron needs to be dead square, so that the face side in the vice is also vertical. This means that the edge will be, or ought to be, horizontal. If the edge is out of kilter to start with (ie the face side is skewed, not vertical) then you ain't got much a chance of ever planing the edge square as it's quite easy to hold the plane and judge when it's level or tilted...even if you don't use Alf's radio ariel trick! - Rob

 

[TrimTheKing]

It's the Charlesworth method of using a cambered blade and making slight lateral movements across the edge of a board to square it up when jointing. It enables you to take only half width shavings if necessary, if that makes sense

Mark

No - half width shaving are a property of "the other method".

The cambered blade takes controlled tapered shavings.

I suppose if you went far enough "off line" you could take half width tapered shavings, but you then lose one on the advantages of the cambered blade method, which is a fully cut surface after each stroke.

see this (from an excellent thread)

http://www.woodcentral.com/cgi-bin/hand ... ead=133438

BugBear

Okay, my wording was wrong but I meant the same thing. With the cambered blade you can take a thicker shaving off one edge if required to achieve the result. And as you say, if you go far enough off the edge then the taper can be along the middle of the board, effectvively making a half width shaving.

Anyway, what I'm getting at is that I agree with you but didn't articulate it very well

Cheers

Mark

 

[bugbear]

I'm just being facetious because I always think wandering blade sounds like a kung fu movie, in the genre of Crouching tiger; Hidden dragon.

I don't do all the marking he does, I just check the board in a few places with a small square and then use a cambered blade to take more or less off one side depending on what is needed. I usually don't even take the board out of the vice to do it, just crouch down and sight along.

In that case you've missed one of Mr C's better (and more original) tips.

The standard old practice is to put the stock of the square on the face of the board, and look "under the blade" to see the error.

But if you put the stock of a small square (a toolmakers adjustable square is ideal for this *) on the edge, the error is seen by looking DOWN and seeing how far the blade is from the face. This also means the length of the blade magnifies the error, making is easy to identify.

And no crouching down...

BugBear

(*)

http://cornishworkshop.blogspot.com/200 ... hings.html

 

[Racers]

Hi,

I have had a play with one and I can't see the point of it on long boards (more than a few of inches) as it won't straighten edges it's just to short. I can only see it being use full for thin boards where it might be difficult to hold a plane square to the edge, but even then with the right technique (using your knuckles as a fence) it wouldn’t be needed.


Pete

 

[TrimTheKing]

Hi,

I have had a play with one and I can't see the point of it on long boards (more than a few of inches) as it won't straighten edges it's just to short. I can only see it being use full for thin boards where it might be difficult to hold a plane square to the edge, but even then with the right technique (using your knuckles as a fence) it wouldn’t be needed.


Pete

Hi Pete

I think the idea is more that you have already straightened the edge down its length, then use the edging plane to ensure that the edge is perfectly perpendicular to the face. Or at least that was my understanding of it.

Cheers

Mark

 

[Paul Chapman]

Just had a look at the spec for the LV edging plane. It's intended for boards up to 1" thick. Up to that thickness, I think it would be better to plane the boards together - more guarantee of a perfect joint in my view. With boards thicker than that you can't use the edging plane anyway so it's probably easier to learn how to manage without it :wink:

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[Racers]

Pete Maddex wrote:
Hi,

I have had a play with one and I can't see the point of it on long boards (more than a few of inches) as it won't straighten edges it's just to short. I can only see it being use full for thin boards where it might be difficult to hold a plane square to the edge, but even then with the right technique (using your knuckles as a fence) it wouldn’t be needed.


Pete
Hi Pete

I think the idea is more that you have already straightened the edge down its length, then use the edging plane to ensure that the edge is perfectly perpendicular to the face. Or at least that was my understanding of it.

Cheers

Mark

But how can it be straight and angled at the same time? if the edge isn't square to the face how do you tell its straight?

I have over a hundered planes and I can't see the use for one. Maybe thats why it was discontinued?


Pete