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devonwoody

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Paignton Devon
I have a small panel to veneer (both sides 300x200) any reason why I should not use titebond 3, its nearing the end of season for me and I do not like to carry stock of another glue over the winter, so not wanting to purchase another product.
 
Shouldn't be a problem - but I now always use Borden UL39. But watch there is a lookalike out there called Dynea and it bleeds through and does not mix well.

Best

Ian
 
We use Titebond 111 all the time in the workshop but have not tried it yet for veneering. We did use Titebond Cold Press Veneer glue yesterday on some trays which looked great. I can’t find any guidance for using 111 for veneer work so won’t chance it myself.
Sorry this may not be the answer you have been looking for it may work fine but as the manufacturer doesn’t recommend it it may fail.
 
Ian":3ny6nm5v said:
Shouldn't be a problem - but I now always use Borden UL39. But watch there is a lookalike out there called Dynea and it bleeds through and does not mix well.

Best

Ian

UL39 is my preferred veneering glue; if you are getting bleed through with Dynea add the 5912 extender

Cheers Peter
 
I've used Titebond III in the past for veneering, diluted 10% with water, worked fine for smallish box panels in a veneer press. Now I only vac press so use UL39 as it was recommended by Airpress, but I seem to recall that they were also pretty comfortable with cross linking PVA's.
 
I used titebond 3 with some water and got perfect application.

Used a piece of old kitchen foamback carpet between clingfilm and melanine boards, brought into the conservatory where temp. is high (around 95far).

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Don't see any reason why it won't work. PVA type glues can creep a bit over time but it's only a little panel.
 
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