Veneer Repair

[Harbo]

We had to extend our dining table to accommodate 12 at Christmas which meant pulling out the end leaves - not something we've done for quite some time.
On one if them, the veneer has a tiny split (about 50mm long) with slightly curled edges.
What's the best way of repairing it. The table is made by Jaycee in Jacobean Oak and we've had it for many years.


Rod

 

[paul saunders]

Try to get some PVA glue under the split and iron it down with a warm not hot iron with a soft cloth under the iron.

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[tim burr]

Force a bit of pva glue into the split, push down and wipe away the excess then top with a piece of clingfilm/tinfoil etc or anything that won't stick to the top. Depending on where the split is you then either get a g cramp with a block of wood to put pressure on the split or if you can't get a cramp on it try weighing the area down with books, a hand plane etc. Leave it for 24 hours or so and then any glue that has leaked onto the surface can hopefully be chipped away with a fingernail or chisel without ruining the finish.

 

[tim burr]

Try to get some PVA glue under the split and iron it down with a warm not hot iron with a soft cloth under the iron.

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I did think about suggesting using an iron but unless you're very careful you could end up making a mess of whatever finish has been applied. I think in this case cold pressing it would be safer

 

[paul saunders]

Try to get some PVA glue under the split and iron it down with a warm not hot iron with a soft cloth under the iron.

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I did think about suggesting using an iron but unless you're very careful you could end up making a mess of whatever finish has been applied. I think in this case cold pressing it would be safer

That's why I said warm not hot with a cloth in between ;-) but I agree cold pressing is a safer method if it can be done.

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[yetloh]

I wouldn't use PVA because there is a fair chance that is what was originally glued with, and PVA doesn't stick well to old PVA. MY choice would be either a cyanoacrylate (superglue) with which you would have to work fast, or urea formaldehyde (Cascamite etc.) both of which will stick to most things. It is difficult to get a lot of pressure using weights. I have found a better answer is to use a curved caul - easy to make with a plane and a piece of 2 x 2. Place the vcentre of the curve over the repair and clamp at the edges of the table top.

Jim

 

[marcus]

Like Jim says. The best way to get the glue under is with a medical type syringe and needle (not too fine a needle or the glue won't flow). Needless to say make sure you put lots of decent sized softwood pads between the clamps and the table!

 

[Peter Sefton]

I would use UF coloured down with earth pigments if the veneer is cracked, if the crack fills with white Cascamite you will have a real game removing it or colouring it in before polishing. I use a syringe for getting glue into burrs or a Veneer Spatula for general splits. Get the glue under the veneer push it around with your thumb or the handle of the spatula to make sure its into the whole area, wipe off any execs glue before cramping with a flat block covered with parcel tape or plastic. Work quickly as the veneer will expand when the glue hits it :!:

Cheers Peter

 

[marcus]

So as usual, ask the forum and get as many contradictory answers as you can handle ;-)

 

[Peter Sefton]

So as usual, ask the forum and get as many contradictory answers as you can handle ;-)

Different people, different experiences. What did you expect :?:

 

[marcus]

Of course!