Velux Repair help

[deema]

I have a Velux that needs some TLC. It’s rotted on the inside bottom corner. I’m assuming it’s due to condensation collecting. The window isn’t leaking. The Velux is in a box room in the loft, so doesn’t get much use!

I’ve not taken a Velux apart before, I’ve watched a few utube videos so now know the basics.

I think the sash is made from yellow pine?? Anyone know?

Will I need any special seals when putting it back together? I’m assuming the glass is sat on standard glazing strip??

Any suggestions fit how to weather proof whilst I sort it out?

The rots very deep, so the glass has to come out. I was hoping I could splice a piece in without disturbing anything, that’s not feasible with the size as I’m not sure I’ve got all the rot yet. Not sure whether it will be quicker and easier to make a new sash or cut and splice new bits into it. Anyone done this before??

My finger is to give a perspective on the size of the rot that I’ve dug out whilst it’s insitu

 

[rogxwhit]

Is it an obsolete size I wonder - can't you just source a replacement sash from a Velux agent?

Veluxes I've seen were always Swedish pine (the same 'joinery red' that we buy in timber merchants - Pinus sylvestris), though remarkably clear stock.

Just copy what's there in terms of section and glazing detail - although it could be an opportunity to deepen the rebate for a thicker unit at the same time.

Yes the glass must be bedded on glazing tape to provide a seal so that warm / humid room air can't get round to the edge of the glass unit and condense.

 

[deema]

It’s probably a standard size, but there is no fun in just buying another.

 

[dzj]

I once did a similar repair for a relative. Pro bono.
Had I billed him for it, it'd cost more than a new velux type window.

 

[rogxwhit]

Remove sash. Remove any tinware & the glass unit (I know this is obvious but I'm just thinking aloud). I'd brace the sash before cutting out the diseased corner to reduce stress on the remaining 3 corners. I'd prepare a new finger-jointed corner assembly and scarf joint it to the sash. I think here a plain angled scarf with glue & screws.

For any softwood external joinery I would cut all joints and test assemble dry, then take apart and dunk all cut ends in a bucket of preservative for a while. Then let them dry off for a day or two before gluing up.

 

[aforjeh]

What is the size code? I have a set of slighly soiled ones coming out, in much better condition you’d be welcome to if they match. Sizes are all standard including old codes… they just match equivalent new codes..

 

[Superduner]

This will probably get me shot down in flames, but here goes...I'd just treat the wood with wood hardener, maybe with some drilled holes and a small syringe to get it in deep. Then use epoxy wood to fill the hole. If it's not leaking then that should work, for a year or two anyway.
I remade the end of a south facing windowsill like this a couple of years ago and it's still fine.

 

[rogxwhit]

E

epoxy wood

Epoxy wood is increasingly rare owing to the felling and burning of all the old-growth stands of epoxy trees .... I'd hesitate to use it myself ... ;-)

 

[Superduner]

Luckily I have an epoxy wood (filler) shop just around the corner. They will cut the epoxy to any size you want

 

[deema]

@aforjeh thats a super kind offer, thank you. I regularly visit my parents over in wessy land, which is where I originate from……Holmfirth area. Now, I have my fingers crossed they match the code for my widow which is GGL 304

 

[deema]

@Superduner its an option I have considered, I have filled windows in the past, but a,ways found that very quickly with wood movement it becomes obvious where the filler has been applied. In this case the rot has taken out most of the rebate for the glass, it would be difficult to achieve a seal with the glass with filler without creating a situation where changing the glass becomes a nightmare. These days, I always either splice in new bits or make new sashes. I am very lucky that I have a very well equipped workshop……but not necessarily all the skill!

 

[rogxwhit]

Ah - so "it would be no fun to buy one", but this way you can keep your hand on your back pocket ... ;;-)))

 

[Jacob]

I'd be inclined to blame the paint. It's typical of modern paints to still be in good nick over damp and rotten wood. It keeps the damp out - until it gets in, then it keeps it in.

 

[deema]

Ah - so "it would be no fun to buy one", but this way you can keep your hand on your back pocket ... ;;-)))

I’m a fully signed up genuine Yorkshire man, deep pockets, short arms that would make a Scotsman look generous.

 

[deema]

@aforjeh Looks like it’s a standard model 78x98cm which is I think a MK04

 

[aforjeh]

Sorry - mine are MK08, CK02, CK04 and UK04… no match

 

[deema]

@aforjeh Thanks, appreciate your offer of help, they may well be good for someone else.

 

[deema]

The challenge now is to repair the window, I understand that the glazing is sealed with a butyl seal. Velux sell a kit that includes the seal, but it’s in a 7 to 14 day lead time I’d like to get this window resolved whilst we gave a decent weather window. I have two other options, butyl seal that easily available in around 8mm round that’s used in a lot of automotive sealing applications, or the stuff in a can. I’m leaning toward the 8mm stuff. Anyone any views?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/38476643...8mfAKrtRtW&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

 

[rogxwhit]

Use one of these - I don't think it matters which -
https://www.reddiseals.com/product/epdm-tape/https://www.reddiseals.com/product/butyl-tape-sealant/

 

[rogxwhit]

They supply trade & you should get a next day delivery.