V-groove routing

[paulnewbie]

Apologies if this I'm doing something daft here, but I'm routing out some MDF with a v-groove cutter to try to make some tongue and groove effect cladding. I'm using a new Trend router and the v-groove cutter in one of their starter kits. My problem is that the cut out section is not truly v-shaped as it has a flat bottom of a couple of mm. This wasn't the look I was going for. Am I doing something wrong, or do I need to buy a more expensive cutter. Thanks for any help.

 

[baldkev]

https://www.rutlands.com/sp+routing...its-tct-router-bits-v-groove-rutlands+m_tr166
Ive got the trend starter kit 36 piece or whatever it was, and yes, the v bit is slightly flat bottomed....

 

[paulnewbie]

https://www.rutlands.com/sp+routing...its-tct-router-bits-v-groove-rutlands+m_tr166
Ive got the trend starter kit 36 piece or whatever it was, and yes, the v bit is slightly flat bottomed....

Thanks. There is an advert on your post - is that an alternative that you would recommend, or has that been inserted automatically?

 

[Inspector]

The reason the V groove bits have a little flat is that there is almost no cutting action on a point. if you want to make a small V you can use your table saw if you are doing through cuts. You need a blade that cuts a flat groove and tilt it to 45. Then you get the sharp bottom.

Pete

 

[paulnewbie]

The reason the V groove bits have a little flat is that there is almost no cutting action on a point. if you want to make a small V you can use your table saw if you are doing through cuts. You need a blade that cuts a flat groove and tilt it to 45. Then you get the sharp bottom.

Pete

Thanks for this. Hadn't thought of using the tablesaw for this

 

[baldkev]

The link is because I did a quick search and that one shows it to be a good v point

 

[paulnewbie]

The link is because I did a quick search and that one shows it to be a good v point

Great - I'm new to the forum so wasn't sure if ads appeared automatically. Agree that one looks super pointy!

 

[Phil Pascoe]

https://www.wealdentool.com/acatalog/Online_Catalogue_Engraving_60_Degree_719.html
costs more than the Rutlands but will be a better quality cutter if you've a lot to do. 90 degree there as well.

 

[paulnewbie]

Thanks to you all - very helpful. As I'm going to have to buy a more expensive cutter, what is the consensus on 60 vs 90 degrees for a tongue/groove style effect?

 

[Simon89]

The t&g cladding I use has a 45 chamfer on the edge giving 90 between the two boards

 

[TheTiddles]

I suppose technically you ought to have that small flat if it’s representing actual T&G as you’d normally not have the pieces butted up together unless the entire panel floats.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

^ good point.

 

[Simon89]

And if you are painting it, will the bottom of the V just fill with paint and primer anyway

 

[Woody2Shoes]

The reason the V groove bits have a little flat is that there is almost no cutting action on a point. if you want to make a small V you can use your table saw if you are doing through cuts. You need a blade that cuts a flat groove and tilt it to 45. Then you get the sharp bottom.

Pete

More to the point (teehee) is that with a (single) cutter made of tungsten carbide (which is very hard but also pretty brittle) a sharp point it likely to snap off. There are V cutter bits with a pair of separate TC pieces, arranged to overlap in a proper V, or you can get HSS cutters with sharper pointy bits on them, or make a scratch stock for gouging out the "flat bottom".

PS my old wooden T&G Bead plane has a lovely sharp point to delineate the (inboard) edge of the bead. I've noticed on old joinery that the T&G beads are definitely crisper than that obtainable with cheap TC router bits.

 

[Spectric]

If you want a sharp point then look at:

Engraving 90 Degree

or

https://www.wealdentool.com/acatalog/Online_Catalogue_V_Groove_285.html

 

[Woody2Shoes]

If you want a sharp point then look at:

Engraving 90 Degree

or

https://www.wealdentool.com/acatalog/Online_Catalogue_V_Groove_285.html

An example of the use of multiple TC blades to avoid the "weak pointy bit" problem

 

[Phil Pascoe]

If you want a sharp point then look at:

Engraving 90 Degree

or

https://www.wealdentool.com/acatalog/Online_Catalogue_V_Groove_285.html

Or maybe V-groove routing

 

[johnnyb]

I always do this by tilting over the table saw at 45 and running the board through with the cutter just peeping through.makes setting out a lot easier. also a much cleaner cut

 

[Retired]

Hi,

I've done lots of "V" groving; the slight flat at the bottom has never been a problem; however if you decide to use a saw table depending on the size of the panel you are working on if it's a big panel then I doubt you'll have much success because of control also if you have limited space; keeping the panel flat against the saw bed is paramount otherwise the depth of V will suffer badly?

My last big job was giving our master bedroom a comprehensive makeover adding wainscot V panelling and a coffered ceiling. I have very limited space in the workshop and the panels were 8' long; working entirely on my own I didn't even consider using the saw bench; the 6mm thick MDF was warped.

I think something like a Skillsaw run against a guide the saw at 45 degrees would possibly be a better choice giving greater control.

I used a router against a guide and after a couple of trial runs on offcuts it surprised me by how quickly the job progressed; I soon got the hang of repositioning the guide and not relying on a tape measure I made a small wooden distance block allowing quick accurate marking.

The coffered ceiling was rather more difficult but the end result was well worth the time and effort.

Kind regards, Colin.

Using my Skillsaw to cut boards from full sheets of 18mm thick MDF for the coffered ceiling but with the saw adjusted to 45 degrees it should be possible to run V grooves against a guide in like manner.

Using a router against a wooden guide running stopped V grooves; lots of care and concentration is needed in order keep the router against the guide but it worked a treat and please note the full 8' x 4' x 6mm being worked on in such a tight space; the wooden guide also helped a great deal in keeping the big sheet flat at point of cut ensuring constant depth; this was the only way I could think of but I was delighted with the outcome.

Here's the V grooved panelling being installed.

I added two double 13A sockets for things like bedside lamps and clock. The top dado rail I ran on my combination woodworker shaper but this too could be run with suitable bits in a router. I used an Apollo spray outfit to spray the paint; the new carpet finished the job off.

The new coffered ceiling I also added to this bedroom; why have it easy when I can really make it hard; it took a while for the blood to reach my fingers again; the ceiling was poor so I used very heavy special paper and adhesive for the panels. Next I gave the front room a comprehensive makeover; I can always find some project to keep me busy; the only cost were materials; I did the lot on my own with my lovely wife keeping the mugs of tea and biscuits in readiness.

The paper used for the ceiling panels was this;

Wallrock Premium | Heavy Duty Lining Paper | Quality Lining Paper

It was highly recommened to me on a decorating forum; not cheap and it needs special heavy duty adhesive but it's always worth the extra money; skimping on materials usually means trouble at a later date.

 

[J-G]

The paper used for the ceiling panels was this;

Wallrock Premium | Heavy Duty Lining Paper | Quality Lining Paper

It was highly recommened to me on a decorating forum; not cheap and it needs special heavy duty adhesive but it's always worth the extra money; skimping on materials usually means trouble at a later date.

Looks like a good job but it seems very odd when 'go wallpaper'appear to be somewhat shy in their description not giving the 'weight' in the normal wall paper market terms. I had to dig very deep on their site to eventually find that the "Premium HD Lining Paper" is only 0.234mm thick. This is about equivalent to 800g lining paper - the thinnest that is normally available. Personally I use 2000g which is 0.375mm thick (60% thicker than the Walrock product) and available from the likes of toolstation at the princely sum of £5.94 -- less than 60% of the cost.

I know this is hardly a wood-working issue but recommendations for ancilary products ought to be subject to scrutiny.