Using resin

[PeteHB]

I would like to try using resin to fill voids before turning, is it really necessary to have a vacuum pot? If it is it's a step to far for me so any advice on doing without would be useful.

 

[Blister]

What is it you need to fill ? What size ? , Normally it's a pressure pot that is used pumped up to 70 psi then left for 24 hours.

 

[clogs]

could be wrong but I thought that a vac pot would be best....?
the vacating air is replaced by resin....
pressure pot just seems so wrong....
someone must know.....

 

[alex robinson]

I would like to try using resin to fill voids before turning, is it really necessary to have a vacuum pot? If it is it's a step to far for me so any advice on doing without would be useful.

Definitely not. If you use a casting resin such as glasscast it will fill voids fine without and special pressure / vacuum equipment.

There are 3 types depending on the depth you want to fill, with different speed hardeners. 50 is the slowest and will allow pours of up to 50mm in one go. If you use too fast a resin for a deep fill it generates heat too quickly and can leave imperfections or even catch fire.

Be very careful about getting the mixture correct and that the wood is dry otherwise it won't set and will leave a disgusting sticky mess. Also, be careful as it takes 3 days to set, so make sure the area you want to fill is completely contained. The smallest hole, and it will all escape. If you are using clear resin, make sure you keep dust out of the area.

Once poured, you can use a blowtorch to pop and small bubbles.

You can use coloured dyes or metal powder to give interesting effects. I use culr concentrates, or aluminium or copper powder. If you are using dyes, it is worth sealing the hole with a thin coat of clear first to stop bleeding, especially into punky or end grain wood.

Worth wearing disposable gloves too - it is quite nasty stuff and seems to get everywhere!

 

[kinverkid]

I have only filled small voids and cracks with resin. For most of those you wouldn't need a vacuum or pressure pot but they would make life easier in some instances. Just make sure that the void is horizontal and that any way routes like cracks for the resin to escape from are taped up. I assure you, resin will find a a route out if it can. Use something like Bluetack to make a dam or lake on curved surfaces A hair dryer may come in handy too. Drop some resin into the void, give it a few seconds of warm air and the resin become runny and sink lower into the void. Repeat this until it stops sinking. But, keep an eye on it, resin might seem thick but it tends to find its way into or out of other cracks and voids like water so you may have to top it up. Within and hour you can turn over you piece and fill other voids the same way. It might seem time consuming and on something like a bowl mounted on a lathe it might take several mix-ups but it can be done in a morning and it is very economical on the resin. Also you can mix different colours for each void if you fancied. Bigger voids, root balls, etc will need the pressure/vacuum pots which I have no experience with. I understand that with any of the procedures you will need to leave it at least 24 hours before turning the piece. Longer if you can.

 

[alex robinson]

I have only filled small voids and cracks with resin. For most of those you wouldn't need a vacuum or pressure pot but they would make life easier in some instances. Just make sure that the void is horizontal and that any way routes like cracks for the resin to escape from are taped up. I assure you, resin will find a a route out if it can. Use something like Bluetack to make a dam or lake on curved surfaces A hair dryer may come in handy too. Drop some resin into the void, give it a few seconds of warm air and the resin become runny and sink lower into the void. Repeat this until it stops sinking. But, keep an eye on it, resin might seem thick but it tends to find its way into or out of other cracks and voids like water so you may have to top it up. Within and hour you can turn over you piece and fill other voids the same way. It might seem time consuming and on something like a bowl mounted on a lathe it might take several mix-ups but it can be done in a morning and it is very economical on the resin. Also you can mix different colours for each void if you fancied. Bigger voids, root balls, etc will need the pressure/vacuum pots which I have no experience with. I understand that with any of the procedures you will need to leave it at least 24 hours before turning the piece. Longer if you can.

What resin are you using? Something that can be used to fill cracks and will set in an hour or sounds pretty useful.

The casting resins are great for filling small gaps - if the resin part if warm before mixing I think they get into almost anything without pressure, but are a right faff for cracks in bowls as it takes so long to set.

 

[kinverkid]

What resin are you using? Something that can be used to fill cracks and will set in an hour or sounds pretty useful.

I just had to ask my nephew but he can't remember the name of it either. He cast 45's into a bar top. I get what he has left over from some of the building jobs he has. I can tell you that it was crystal clear and was a 50/50 mix. Although it wouldn't be ready until the following day to turn, you could turn the bowl over to fill other voids once it had started to go-off. I'll update you it I find the name of it because I would like to use it again. Another one that I experimented with and it works fine but only if colouring it, was some GRP he had left over. Also, Zap Z-Poxy 15 minute for the real small stuff. Both of them in my opinion are only suitable for small cracks and voids.
Good point about sealing the void first too. Added to that, if the void is so deep into the bowl that it much of it will be turned away when hollowing it is to pack sawdust into the bottom, pour in the sealcoat to soak the dust. Pour the filler in after it has gone off and fingers crossed the sawdust/sealer will block any exits and that part will be turned away when hollowing.

 

[Ollie78]

For small cracks and voids black super glue is great stuff, you can build it in layers for deeper holes.

Ollie

 

[Blister]

My opinion would be a pressure pot as it pushes the resin into the voids under pressure, A vacuum chamber sucks , I cant't see how that would help , Nearly all the You tube posters use Pressure pots.

Maybe I am wrong ?.

 

[kinverkid]

What resin are you using? Something that can be used to fill cracks and will set in an hour or sounds pretty useful.

The casting resins are great for filling small gaps - if the resin part if warm before mixing I think they get into almost anything without pressure, but are a right faff for cracks in bowls as it takes so long to set.

He thinks it was called Resin Glory. I looked it up and there is a resin called that but the bottles look different. My bottles were very flowery. They could have changed the labels I suppose. It's mixed 1:1 and no detectable odour as I remember.

 

[Peanutcoxy]

I use resin as part of my job and the advice given above is quite right. I have never used a vacuum or pressure pot and have had no problems, just burn off the bubbles with a flame or hot air gun. Tiny cracks are a nuisance but if you can, set some syringes with blunt needles; it does help. Often, after it cures, you are still left with small holes/gaps as it has dropped; just put a small bit in again. As to what to use; quick drying for small cracks is best (cures in about 8-12 hours). I use a product from Resin8 in Cheltenham called Coat-It. 1:1 mix and works well for me

 

[Alpha1]

Vacuum chambers are normally used for stabilising. Wooden pen blanks is one example.
Pressure pots are normally used to remove air bubbels from resin casts

 

[Slarty]

I use a presure pot but only where largish volumes of resin are being used in the piece - for small crack/voids there's generaly no need - just ensure the resin is warm so it flows well into the space and as highlighted above - ensure the piece is sealed as resin is like Houdini - one tip - use Hot glue to seal and or create dams around areas where the resin is to be pored.

I read somewhere (but can't remember were) that presure pots don't actually remove the bubles from resin but they do compress them to such an extent they're not visible.

 

[LutonRoy]

I would like to try using resin to fill voids before turning, is it really necessary to have a vacuum pot? If it is it's a step to far for me so any advice on doing without would be useful.

Ive only just started wood turning but I brought a resin kit off Amazon. I just mixed it as per instruction and poured it into the cracks, just taped over the otherside to stop it seeping out the otherside. Used it in infill aswell, the hardest part was polishing it back to a glossy shine

 

[Padster]

I note mention of hot glue on this thread and many other threads on other sites for resin, but personally I have found silicon sealant to be way better and easier to remove, oh and other tip if you don’t want it to stick to something, don’t bother with the expensive tape you can buy, just get a roll of ‘fragile’ packaging tape

Regards

Padster

 

[BearTricks]

I use a presure pot but only where largish volumes of resin are being used in the piece - for small crack/voids there's generaly no need - just ensure the resin is warm so it flows well into the space and as highlighted above - ensure the piece is sealed as resin is like Houdini - one tip - use Hot glue to seal and or create dams around areas where the resin is to be pored.

I read somewhere (but can't remember were) that presure pots don't actually remove the bubles from resin but they do compress them to such an extent they're not visible.

This is true. Vacuum removes the air incorporated in to the resin when you mix it and before you pour it.

Pressure pot compresses any air in the mixture in to tiny, evenly distributed bubbles.

Casting guys tend to do both.