Using plunge saw to cut plasterboard

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mark aspin":3ve51rdx said:
Sorry - I didn't mean to open a can of worms!!! :shock:

I used my saw to scribe some polystyrene backed plasterboard to a wall which wasn't going to be plastered, so it had to be neat. I won't be cutting any plasterboard again until our house eventually sells and we buy our next project (I'm not a builder by the way!)

It just got me thinking about how I could cut plasterboard faster and neater but the walls would probably be plastered anyway so it doesn't matter. I've done the stanley knife/straightedge and tape measure approaches in the past which have worked alright, although I haven't tried the Bladerunner advertised in the ITS catalogue yet - might be a good idea?

Thanks
Mark

Nothing wrong with opening a can of worms IMO Mark and absolutely nothing wrong in experimenting - how else can we find out what works (much better that you use your expensive saw than me if it knackers it :lol: :lol: )- as long as you post to stop anyone else trying it.

Bob
 
I think when I line out my new shed I'll just get some trestles, a sheet of MDF and cut the plasterboard using a Stanley Knife. Like I always did.
As someone said, the cut edges will be hidden anyway!
(I found some nice old Lyncrusta wallpaper that will just do the job.) :wink:

John :D
 
I use chalk line,s/knife and finish with surform rasp. Most cuts are not parallel with older builds.
 
Curved cuts with the bladerunner are ok but after about half an hr it was back to the stanley knife,rule/ tape,have used a ripsnorter to cut 19mm gyproc planking but the dust from it was pretty bad,also used a bench saw to rip glasroc sheets but again dust was crazy but was pretty quick as they're quite tough sheets
 
The traditional method of cutting plasterboard on site, is to set the boards horizontal on trestles, using the self edge of the boards and holding a folding 3' rule with your thumb and finger against this to the correct cut width, similar to a marking gauge with you hand, you hold the knife blade against the end of the rule with the point of the blade pushed into the plaster board just enough to cut the facing paper of the board. you then move the cut board out from the pile say 50mm to give clearance, then holding the middle of the edge of the board snap the cut down forming a right angle, you then feed the blade in to the underside of this and cut the back paper of the board. If your going for a corner or ceiling cut or anything similar, you then cut a back bevel so the face side, butts up hard to the other board. you can actually download the "Gypsum White Book" - the industry standard - here http://www.british-gypsum.com/liter...ach time (homer), life's to short...bosshogg
 

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