Using a Hole Saw the right way

[Bloc75]

Hi, first post and I should clarify that up until 3 months ago the last time I had done any serious woodwork was in school. Me and my partner decided to make a potting bench for her summer house. It actually pretty decent and professional looking. So the bug was caught. I've been stocking my garage with all the tools I am going to need, and my next project was creating a full length floating (kind of) bench for my computers and music production stations. That also looks really good and pleased with how we did it.

However....

I have bought some nice cable grommets that need a hole cutting at around 79mm, so I got the bit for my drill. Tested it out on pine, and then on an off cut of my 27mm thick oak (which is what my floating table is made of). Ok so it took around 5 - 10 minutes to go through in the oak off cut. Bit of smoke, but it worked. I suspect that I may well be doing something wrong. I have a decent drill (did have, will come to that) 18v Makita. I bought the D-33869 BiM Holesaw bit. For some reason it wouldn't work when the drill was in the forward position, only the reverse - so that may be something I've done, or it's just the way these work - I don't know.

So anyway I thought that it worked, I can't really justify getting the TCT bits at the moment, so I dived in this morning. Lots of smoke, got about halfway through and a 4a battery had been drained from full. Hmm, so I switched to my spare battery and then smoke starting coming out the back of the drill - and then it died. I've had to order another one because I don't think it's the drill, it's me.

So my question is, does my experience cutting this oak (and even the Pine was a bit labour intensive) seem right, and if not what do I need to be doing, is the bit even the right one?

I'm fairly a resourceful person and have learned so much with other tools, but this one has me stumped.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

They don't have the best tooth formation for wood, they're more designed for sheet metal really. Because of this, as you found, they clog. There is no way of doing what you're trying to do other than taking it very slowly and withdrawing the saw very regularly to clear it. If you keep pushing there is nowhere for the sawdust to go and it sits between the teeth and burns. A 79mm hole is a slow enough curve to cut cleanly with a jigsaw (with the right blade).

 

[Bloc75]

Yeah if you have a steady hand,

Hmm, would it be worth getting hold of TCT bit for this kind of stuff?

Thanks for the clarity though - glad to know it wasn't my initial setup other than the wrong bit for the job.

 

[MikeK]

Here's the method I use with my hole saw in wood panels.

 

[Bloc75]

Well that's genius. Thanks for that, really appreciate the advise.

 

[transatlantic]

I hate using hole saws (I'll use the router where I can). The kits you can buy for £10 or so are junk!

But using the Bosch ones, and relief holes as shown above works much better!

 

[Nelsun]

Another vote for Mike's video above^ I'm not a fan of hole saws, but drilling escape holes makes it a little less of a chore. Oh, and a side handle can help if you have one.

 

[Bloc75]

Yeah a Router is on my list next to buy.

 

[TheUnicorn]

never a fun job, always a pain in the wrist from wrestling the drill in control, when possible I drill an escape hole, though it is hard to get it touching without it being proud of the circle. Always kills batteries with the amount of torque needed, so I try and use a mains drill if I'm making several holes (or if there is one readily to hand), I also try and keep an eye on overheating.

 

[Bloc75]

Yeah big lesson learned today - but its all part of it for me. Making mistakes to not make them again.

 

[RobinBHM]

Tilting the drill helps - sort of in a pattern of 4, so the the hole saw is only cutting about 1/4 of the circle at a time.

 

[Bloc75]

Lots of good advice, now does anyone have any tips on how to remove the smell of burning electrics from my garage?

 

[bourbon]

That's your next purchase then, a pillar drill with a slow speed option, keep backing the drill off to clear the teeth as has been said

 

[artie]

If possible I drill half from each side, well, I did before today.

 

[TheUnicorn]

If possible I drill half from each side, well, I did before today.

yes definately drill from both sides where possible, or at the very least clamp a sacrificial board to the back of the hole against tearout. Also a good idea to blow or suck out the sawdust if you can

 

[TheUnicorn]

also if I was doing a deep hole (with a handheld drill) I would probably predrill the pilot hole, my thinking being that it would be easier to drill a 90 degree hole if you can see the bit properly, rather than the holesaw blocking your view

 

[Jameshow]

Do you have a corded drill. A drill stand will help with the cutting the hole saving you a fortune on a bench drill however if your keen on woodworking a decent bench drill is a much. If your in West Yorkshire I have a drill stand spare.

Also a quality hole saw will cut through plywood like butter. I used a Clark kit one on my camper conversion cutting steel and plywood 2" holes for waste and gas drop vents in the floor. It was toast after a couple of holes so I brought one individual one on ebay for £10 which still looks new after half a dozen holes.

Cheers James

 

[Bloc75]

No corded drill. It may be a future purchase.

 

[TomGW]

........I have a decent drill (did have, will come to that) 18v Makita. I bought the D-33869 BiM Holesaw bit. For some reason it wouldn't work when the drill was in the forward position, only the reverse - so that may be something I've done, or it's just the way these work - I don't know.

So anyway I thought that it worked, I can't really justify getting the TCT bits at the moment, so I dived in this morning. Lots of smoke, got about halfway through and a 4a battery had been drained from full. Hmm, so I switched to my spare battery and then smoke starting coming out the back of the drill - and then it died. I've had to order another one because I don't think it's the drill, it's me.

So my question is, does my experience cutting this oak (and even the Pine was a bit labour intensive) seem right, and if not what do I need to be doing, is the bit even the right one?

I'm fairly a resourceful person and have learned so much with other tools, but this one has me stumped.

Just trying to figure this out. Does this mean that you have been attempting to cut the hole with the drill running in reverse only? Then the cordless drill has now burnt out??
If I’ve got this correct, there was something seriously wrong with your drill before you started. The hole saw is just a regular drill bit attachment and would not affect the normal rotation of the drill. If you have been attempting to fit a large dia hole in 27mm oak, running the cutter in reverse, I’m not surprised that the drill went up in smoke.

 

[Bloc75]

Just trying to figure this out. Does this mean that you have been attempting to cut the hole with the drill running in reverse only? Then the cordless drill has now burnt out??
If I’ve got this correct, there was something seriously wrong with your drill before you started. The hole saw is just a regular drill bit attachment and would not affect the normal rotation of the drill. If you have been attempting to fit a large dia hole in 27mm oak, running the cutter in reverse, I’m not surprised that the drill went up in smoke.

When I had the drill in forward it would just stick, it just wouldn't move in the wood. Even when I tested it in pine, mdf and plywood. All the same. I checked online and read somewhere that it didn't matter - but like I said in my OP I was suspicious of this. But as I got it to work, albeit slowly I went with it.

I honestly couldn't understand why it wouldn't bite going forward.