Unwanted texture, help!

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So Profchris, do you think it would work? Personally and I’m sorry to say this, I think the company is looking for a cheap way out of a difficult problem.
So "I’ve got woodworm, " unless you have managed to find (through us all) a way to finish their handbags in an economical way I wouldn’t go signing any contracts in the near future.
Some of these companies employ pretty low level people who get themselves into a bind and are desperate to pass the buck. Read that contract carefully you don’t want to be stuck with the cost of all those duff handbags. Ian
I’m with you all the way thanks Ian.
I’m really Interested to hear their feedback on my quotation and test result. We’ll then see which stance they want to take regarding the difficult problem and how much money they want to pump into it.
 
So Profchris, do you think it would work? Personally and I’m sorry to say this, I think the company is looking for a cheap way out of a difficult problem.

Pumice pore filling works, but it still takes time. Maybe 2 hours total finishing for each item here, if you set up an efficient production line, but I'd budget 4.

I've discovered there is no short cut to a high quality finish :(

Like you, I'd run away from this deal.
 
Yep. even batch working (min 20) I'd be quoting no less than £120 per for this and that would only just manage to cover materiel and time
 
I've got bad news. My wife has a LOT of handbags ( I say nothing in case she does a count of tools) and I can say for certain that a handbag is supposed to hold stuff. That design appears to lack the major functionality of a handbag. Just saying.
 
T trees, I’d forgotten all about pumise, I got all my dad’s old woodworker annuals out many years ago and taught myself to French polish from them, I seem to remember they called the pumice bag a "ponce bag"
One potential problem with using pumice as a grain filler is that over time its whiteness can reveal itself in the pores of the wood. So you can end up with something that started as a darkish brown/red dyed, stained, pumice grain filled and polished mahogany all of which fades somewhat over time, and that's when the whiteness of the pumice reveals itself. Usually when I've seen this it's been on old to very old furniture rather than stuff built within the last twenty or forty years.

Plaster-of-paris is another grain filler which I've used a few times. It's definitely white, of course, and to disguise the whiteness colour is needed, and this can come in the form of earth pigments or water soluble powder paints, for example. Below is an example where the plaster-of-paris was mixed with the water soluble powder paint and and the fill used to contrast with the surrounding wood colour. Below the table top image, a similar end result done as a sample for something (I don't remember why now) using oak plus emulsion paint. In both cases the background colour was created using ferrous sulphate. I don't know for sure if the whiteness of the plaster-of-paris will reveal itself over a number of decades, but it wouldn't surprise if it does. Slainte.

Table-30-Top.jpg


Oak-Fe-SO4-paint-web.jpg
 
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Just had a though, You would also have to offer a repair guarantee for faulty finish etc but remember, if these are dropped the finish will be totally buggered and need to be redone. This would take the same amount of time as the original even a bit longer as you would have to prep at least 1/2 the bag al over again and get rid of the first finish.

Still could be a part of the contract that your contact details could be included in the bag for a repairs to user damage service and you could reasonably charge £250/300 for it.
But over all, if you dont have a decent area you can relegate to allowing this stuff to dry/cure and off gas with a decent infrared drying system then walk away.

A car sprayer used to 2 pack finishes is really what they want or someone used to using resin
 
I am by no means expert, but I saw this on youtube and thought I'd give it a go. Result was as shown on the vid and I suspect if it works for you it'll be cheaper and quicker. Just a thought.

 
@Linus only problem is it is going on an item that will be carried in warm clamy hands a lot (DO not very durable for that) and bumped and knocked and dropped.
 
OOhh, you could resin impregnate it in a vacumm. Then just apply 3 or 4 coats of whatever you want with a decent sanding in between.
 
Interesting! Thanks for the replies.
This sounds like a right PITA if I'm honest, not sure I want the job now!
I have a relatively small workshop, working out of a single car garage and am mostly tooled up for joinery and the rougher side of woodworking, not really a finishing house.

They were pressing for time so I have submitted a project proposal report with the amended finish, though the texture was reduced slightly after sanding with 1500 grit and applying a 4th lacquer coat, it still suffered from this problem.
Droogs' advice sounds like the technique that they're probably after, but I don't think that they will accept the subsequent costs from a lengthier process... I watched a couple of youtube videos from guys that were using this exact technique and the finish was great, though it's not up my street at the moment. We'll see that they say, I'm not expecting much though!

Thanks again.
Dave.
My advice, based on a similar set of circumstances, for a luxury handbag maker is “walk away now”. They generally want the Holy Trinity of fast, cheap and extraordinarily high quality, only the last one of these being what I wanted.

I do turning and my unit is next door to an automotive body shop. I’ve had olive and walnut sprayed with 2-pack acrylic lacquer and polished. If you do decide to take the job, that is what I would recommend.
 
Perhaps your last post says it all "Ive got too much regular woodwork........"
If you have sufficient to keep you busy and get a reasonable income it might be worth considering how much of that you would lose (maybe turning regular customers down as well) while you try and get this project good enough for quality demanding customers.
If you want to go ahead ask them for a sample of work done by others so you can see what you're trying to equal or better!
Good luck
 
If they really want glassy & flat, farm it out to somewhere for a 2k ckear job. Still you might want to do a grainfill stage, or they'd need to hose on loads & loads of 2k.
2k's not a good DIY option - highly poisonous, needs kit. I build guitars and for 2k I have a separate compressor to drive forced-air filtered breathing kit, and extraction.

Much better if they like grain & texture, loads of finish options then.
 
I have a detailed handwritten recipe for French polishing oak, written by a superb cabinet maker who was a friend of my father (and taught him to French polish, who then taught me). I still remember the amazing finish he would get on cabinets.

The first step is: "Mix whiting or plaster of Paris with linseed oil to the consistency of cream and rub in with rag. Wipe off surplus filling and leave to dry for 24 hours."

So it is a classic technique. The fillers that Sgian Dubh mentions are probably less trouble, but the wipe off and thorough dry would be good practice. Sounds like some trials would be handy.

Africa? I have a big acacia tree in my garden. Very nice garden tree, as its open texture in the spring still lets plenty of light through. The flowers are attractive, and the leaves get denser in the summer when one needs the shade. I don't go driving round it but am very wary of the thorns!
 
Just had a though, You would also have to offer a repair guarantee for faulty finish etc but remember, if these are dropped the finish will be totally buggered and need to be redone. This would take the same amount of time as the original even a bit longer as you would have to prep at least 1/2 the bag al over again and get rid of the first finish.

Still could be a part of the contract that your contact details could be included in the bag for a repairs to user damage service and you could reasonably charge £250/300 for it.
But over all, if you dont have a decent area you can relegate to allowing this stuff to dry/cure and off gas with a decent infrared drying system then walk away.

A car sprayer used to 2 pack finishes is really what they want or someone used to using resin
Yep, understood! They still haven’t got back to me. I’ll keep you posted. Thanks.
 
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