Undercoat and paint recommendations

[Jim_Nutt]

Hi all,

I have made a cupboard using redwood and am looking to paint it. The doors are shaker style and the panels use a hardwood ply.

Can you advise me on which undercoat and top coat paints you would use please? I’m keen to hear your thoughts and recommendations!

Many thanks,

Jim

 

[MikeG.]

Don't use undercoat and gloss/ satin. That's so primitive, and there are much better alternatives these days. For years now I have been using, advocating, and specifying water-based microporous paints for these circumstances, and it is my view that the best of these is currently Bedec Multi-Surface Paint (MSP). This is breathable, flexible, and extremely robust and durable. I am making a pair of cupboards to the exact same description as you this very time (I've still got the glue on my fingers!), and I will be painting it with 3 coats of MSP, without question.

Welcome to the forum, BTW.

 

[Jim_Nutt]

Thanks, Mike, this is very helpful!

Would you sand between coats?

Cheers!

 

[MikeG.]

Very lightly. I mean, you barely touch it. You're just de-nibbing. Follow the instructions......the first coat is watered down significantly.

Let me tell you I made my kitchen using this stuff 4 years ago, and it hasn't needed re-touching, even for shelf surfaces where tins, saucepans, frying pans etc are pulled out regularly. It has coped with all wood movement, and with the floor being mopped regularly. The only downside is the relatively restricted colour range.

 

[Jim_Nutt]

Great stuff. Thank you for your advice and time. Much appreciated.

 

[AJB Temple]

Normally I agree with Mike. I have used Bedec MS for painting filmed window frames. It works but in my experience you need a minimum of four coats, preferably five to get fairly good, even finish. I would only ever use it on a surface where adhesion is poor. If you are looking for a highly refined finish, then maybe this is not it.

 

[ED65]

I think you should look at this differently. Since you can paint it with almost literally anything, it's more about what you can't paint it with rather than can

People have painted pine cabinets going back to the year dot and they used milk paint, oil paint, oil-based enamels, emulsion, basically what they had to hand and all of those are still viable options and can give acceptable durability for a typical piece of furniture. Depending on what you want to work with, budget, the finish or 'look' you want, and last but by no means least your desired colour (!), all of those are still viable options.

On wood for interior use undercoat or primer isn't absolutely required with any paint, especially if you thin the first coat or two, but are there any knots in the redwood? If so they should be sealed with knotting or shellac if you're not using a stain-blocking primer like BIN.

 

[Jim_Nutt]

Thanks for your reply; really useful.

Good point re the knots. There are some small ones. I completely forgot about having to treat these!

 

[gregmcateer]

If I could jump on here with a question - Would the Bedec MSP be OK for internal banister rail? i.e. hard-wearing enough for repeated heavy wear and tear?
thanks in advance for your advice
Greg

 

[ColeyS1]

Perhaps a few pictures of msp paint vs traditional primer/satinwood may be useful? Itd help show what quality of finish is achievable with each.

Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

 

[Phil Pascoe]

I used satinwood on my stairway - it looked fine where it was never touched, but personally I would never ever again use the stuff. It showed every single mark and scuff, and the actual banister within a few months looked absolutely filthy.

 

[powertools]

Has it occurred to you that if it looks filthy it probably is.

 

[gregmcateer]

I used satinwood on my stairway - it looked fine where it was never touched, but personally I would never ever again use the stuff. It showed every single mark and scuff, and the actual banister within a few months looked absolutely filthy.

Phil
That's my problem, and even peeling due to poor under surface prep. Wad the satin finish MSP or normal?
TIA

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Has it occurred to you that if it looks filthy it probably is.

No. Once it marks nothing cleans it. It was Dulux Trade satinwood.

 

[gregmcateer]

Thanks Phil. Noted