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PerranOak

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St. Ives, Cornwall
So, by plane has a thin film of rust on the sides.

I could rub it off with wire wool, I guess. Should I do this?

What can I put on it to stop this. There are some expensive Japanese oils , I think.

What I don't want is to have to wipe something off before use, use then wipe something off. However, I don't want oily smears on the work piece either!
 
'Twas one of the first questions I asked https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=35796&highlight=. I'm currently using the oily rag approach but I'm planning on giving Camellia oil (tea seed oil) a try at some point. I believe health food shops sell it.

I've not found that I really need to worry about wiping off the oil before starting work since you generally only need a tiny amount to stop rust forming and any residue is removed on the frist couple of passes of the plane along with the shavings.
 
A good rust preventative is a microcrystalline wax like Renaissance Wax. It's the stuff museums use to preserve suits of armour and just about anything else.

It's a hard paste and you only use a small dab of it. A small tub lasts for ever. Metal surfaces look a bit dull when you've applied it but it doesn't seem to get transferred easily so it shouldn't contaminate other surfaces.

Only problem is that Renaissance Wax is quite hard to find. A couple of years ago, I searched on line and could only find it in the USA (it's British made). And then I found some in Lakeland (!) but I don't think they stock it anymore.
 
what the best way to clean rust and restore from the inner parts of a metal plane? i.e the parts you can get to with sand paper, etc
 
Shield Technology of Grimsby make the same stuff with added corrosion inhibitors specifically for use on planes and cast iron tool beds. It also reduces the coefficient of friction so your tools slide beautifully.

They also do rust removers that can either be applied directly in gel form or made up into a solution to dip your tools. The rust removers passivate the surface, so there is no problem with flash rusting, they are also Ph neutral and biodegradable so you can pour the used solution down the drain when you're done.
 
jlawrence":25feawqa said:
lakeland still stock it and a quick search on google shows a few others that do as well - must admit I've never heard of the stuff before.

Thanks for finding that Lakeland still stock it. But it's certainly gone up quite a bit in price since I bought mine!!!
 
You can get Ren wax on eBay or from most turners supply shops. Such as Stiles and Bates or Turner's Retreat.

That said, it might be cheaper to walk in to a Lakeland and save postage.
 
I use pure (not adulterated with other oil) Camelia Oil and it is fantastic stuff..good for honing too.

The only problem I can see is that my wife has found out it is also an AMAZING wrinkle remover for skin (Japanese Geisha girls use it all the time) and she keeps nicking it!

:D :D :D

Jim
 
jimi43":202rj0mb said:
I use pure (not adulterated with other oil) Camelia Oil and it is fantastic stuff..good for honing too.

The only problem I can see is that my wife has found out it is also an AMAZING wrinkle remover for skin (Japanese Geisha girls use it all the time) and she keeps nicking it!

:D :D :D

Jim
Where can you get hold of the unadulterated stuff? - Rob
 
woodbloke":1xm57pno said:
jimi43":1xm57pno said:
I use pure (not adulterated with other oil) Camelia Oil and it is fantastic stuff..good for honing too.

The only problem I can see is that my wife has found out it is also an AMAZING wrinkle remover for skin (Japanese Geisha girls use it all the time) and she keeps nicking it!

:D :D :D

Jim
Where can you get hold of the unadulterated stuff? - Rob

I got it on eBay...about £8 for 100ml but the guy hasn't got any at present....

I checked with him first because they sometimes cut with baby oil or rapeseed oil.

HERE

You could try asking if he has any more.

With Camelia oil I find I don't have any problems with contamination of wood for finishing which you get with ordinary oil or waxes

Jim
 
Tools are a bit like silver. Contact with human flesh helps retain the 'gleam'... I.e, if you use them... :D

Wire wool won't harm the plane. If you are not thinking about using it for shooting end-grain, no need to be fussed about keeping the sides dead square to the sole. Just a touch of WD 40 and fine wire wool will remove surface rust.

HTH

John :)
 
Wow!

I should put our prices up then. We're charging less than that for 250ml for the best quality 100% pure cold pressed camellia oil that I could get my mitts on.
 
matthewwh":1hxh70bw said:
Wow!

I should put our prices up then. We're charging less than that for 250ml for the best quality 100% pure cold pressed camellia oil that I could get my mitts on.

Super! Now I have a cheaper source...good to know...won't be long before I order some! Do you have a bulk price for larger quantities?

Jim
 

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