Uh oh. wizer's got a chainsaw..... !

[wizer]

Yes it's true. I finally bit the bullet and was seduced by a saw in Axminster's clearance sale. It is a Axminster's own brand 400mm electric jobby. Got it for £55 which I thought was a good deal.

I've set it up and have been using it today. It went well and I managed to get a few logs processed into usable blanks.

However, on the last log it didn't go so well and was cutting unusually slow. In the end I gave up as the firework display began in my back and I thought it best not to push it. this is how far I got. It's a piece of beech, about 16 inches cubed.

Would the blade have blunted this quickly?

 

[Bodrighy]

It can do, especially if that's yew I see amongst that lot. You need to sharpen iit fairly frequently. Leave it too long and it will burn as seen on the beech. I think BSM is more of an expert however and he'll be able top tell you more

Pete

 

[DaveL]

First of all, have put A&E on standby? :shock:

Is the log you stopped on the first cut you have made with the grain? The chain you have will be one designed to cut across the grain, the tooth spacing and chip clearance hooks are different for long grain cutting. You can cut long grain but it will be slow, you need to let the shaving clear and not try and force it the cut quickly.
The other thing to watch is included metal work in the log, lots of trees have bits of fence or washing lines fixed to them, so the odd nail or length of wire is not uncommon. I hope you have not touched the ground with the bar, it only takes a drop at the end of the cut to dull/remove teeth if you hit the hard standing and earth is not any better the grit will wreck the chain.

 

[MikeG.]

:shock: :shock: :shock:

Tom,

this time, just for the record, could you take a picture of all your limbs and digits as they currently are. That way, when the inevitable happens, we'll have a decent set of before and after photos.

Mike

 

[big soft moose]

hi tom

you will indeed need to sharpen it quite frequently - particularly if you are ripping down the grain - did you get a sharpening kit with it ? also more importantly did you get all the appropriate PPE (trousers, boots, gloves and eye and ear pro )

 

[wizer]

I was not cutting down the grain. Along it. There was indeed some yew. In fact 70% of the cuts were in Yew. All along or across the grain, no cuts down the end.

Pete I didn't buy specific chainsaw PPE but I was wearing my visor, dust mask, ear defenders and steel boots. I don't have trousers, will keep my eyes peeled.

Tips on sharpening? Well I needs a better blade or will the stock one be ok? I know I've seen sharpening tips on here so a shove in that direction will be fine.

 

[Paul.J]

Tom,can i suggest that you take it easy with the chainsaw because of your back.
I found that after only a short while of use that my back suffered.
I now use my workmate on both heights depending on the size of log been cut,with a block of Oak used to take the cuts,held in the mate.

 

[OPJ]

I was not cutting down the grain. Along it.

](*,)

That's the same thing, isn't it?! :roll:

I have no experience in this field but, I'm pretty sure you require a different blade, as you're not cutting at 90° to the grain. :wink:

Paul's got the right idea in using your workmate to save your back. Now, I can't remember where I saw this (one of the magazines a few months ago - may have been BW? :?) but, someone came up with a pair of large, round jaws to which would fit in a workmate any hold round logs as you cut off the end and let it fall... There's bound to be something similar on the internet, somewhere.

 

[dickm]

Definitely get yourself one of those kits to go with a Dremel or similar which you can use to sharpen the chain. That way, your are more likely to sharpen regularly, and slightly less likely to strip the crappy plastic gear that is lurking inside your saw. DAMHIKT, even though I have an electric sharpener.
Dunno how variable chains are, but the Stihl originals that go with my new toy, a 110V Stihl, certainly seem amazingly good.

 

[wizer]

Sorry, I meant slicing the grain from the side of the trunk with the end grain at each end. Not going from end grain to end grain.

Paul, I was working on a raised flower bed which made life a bit easier. I gave up as soon as my back told me too. No rush, I can do a couple of logs a day til I've got it all processed and sorted.

Dremel attachment sounds interesting. Will look into that.

I know I have a track record around here, but I'm not an idiot, I was being careful and aware of where the business end was. the manual was surprisingly informative for an axminster publication and I also did some googleing before I unleashed the massacre.

 

[miles_hot]

.

Paul, I was working on a raised flower bed which made life a bit easier. I gave up as soon as my back told me too. No rush, I can do a couple of logs a day til I've got it all processed and sorted.

.

Tom

When I was watching BSM cutting up my stock we always worked either cross some saw horses for the cross grain stuff (admittedly with me doing service as a clamp) or onto a wood offcut when working on the floor (for instance when ripping). BSM made the point that even just touching the soil was an good way of blunting the blade, after all soil is made up of all sorts of good things for taking the edge off stuff!

I have to say that I would be buying some of the trousers as no matter how sharp an eye you keep on the blade it's a damn site sharper than your skin and for the want of a few quid....

Miles

 

[jasonB]

I would not bother with a separate rip blade, because they have a far more aggresive cut you will need a saw with more power behind it than what you have. I've got one for my big Husky but seldom use it, a standard blade will rip reasonably well just watch for the long stringy shavings clogging the saw.

Either a chain file with guide or if you are feeling lazy the dremel attachment. I use a file as you tend not to remove more metal than needed, don't leave bits of grinding stone in the chain and you can touch up the blade if you are out in the woods.

Also make sure you keep the chain oil topped up, if it has not got auto oiling regularly pump oil onto the blade. And make sure its chain oil which is usually biodegradable, not any old engine oil thats going spare.

If the raised bed you were working on is the one with the slate chippings then find a beter surface, you only need to touch a stone or the brick surround and the edge will have been removed.

Jason

 

[Bodrighy]

I have a large lump of pine tree trunk that has a big v cut out of it to put logs obnto for cutting lengthwise. Saw some tree surgeons using one at a country show once. Really stable and I cut into the wood not the ground when I go through.

Pete

 

[big soft moose]

Sorry, I meant slicing the grain from the side of the trunk with the end grain at each end. Not going from end grain to end grain.
.

from a chainsaw point of view thats the same thing - cutting that way is harder on the chain than cross cutting (ie sawing a trunk into logs) - that said ive never used a special chain , you just have to sharpen more often.

also you may find that your saw will struggle on some wood particularly if the grain isnt straight because leccy saws just dont have the omph of a big petrol model

by way of comparison i ripped one of miles' yew logs, 5 beech boards, and 5 sycamore boards and a very big butt of cherry for him last weekend and i was using a sthil 361 petrol saw with a new chain and it still went dull by the end.

PPE wise as you arent felling special chainsaw boots and hat arent essential so log as you wear toe tectors, visor and ear defenders - however you must get a pair of leggings or trousers (expect these to cost more than the saw did) and a pair of protective gloves/mitts - put it this way if you stick the saw in your leg - without ppe chances are you will bleed out before the ambulance arrives. quite aside from the fact you will be dead think of the effect finding you dead in a pool of blood will have on wife or child.

Although they are more expensive as you arent a fully trained user i'd recomend you get type C trousers rather than the cheaper type A

Id also be inclined to add a sachet of haemostatic granules to your workshop first aid kit - these were specially developed to save you from traumatic bleeds. - these arent cheap either at 15 notes a sachet - but then how much is your life worth ?

linkies

chainsaw trousers: http://www.lawson-his.co.uk/scripts/pro ... 20Trousers

heamostatic granules : http://www.celoxmedical.com/

edit: and as swimbo has just reminded me with an electric saw it is ridiculously easy to saw through the flex by mistake - always use an RCD on the plug so you dont fry yourself if this occurs

 

[Jonzjob]

For crying out loud! Don't go near a chainsaw unless you have the protective gear! You can get away with all sorts for ever, BUT if that thing bites it is just as likely to bite your leg off!

The normal French protective clothing seems to be shorts and sandals, but they are not awair that they are less than almighty most of the time?

Then you have the professionals

This phalic-head was taking down a couple of our trees and in this photo up a ladder hanging on with his left hand with the saw about a foot in front of his throat! This was a couple of years back, I don't know if he is still alive, but as soon as I had taken this photo I retired to my workshop!

Sorry, I didn't mean to hijack the thread, but as far as I am concerned anything that takes out wood as fast as a chainsaw needs ALL of the care and attention that you can possibly give it!

So, even if yu are only going to make one cut with it then please put on all the necessary kit!

 

[oddsocks]

Wizer, I have the aldi saw but it has the same oregon 91 blade bar and I recently bought a stihl sharpening kit for £11-50 from the local store. it is simple to use as it has the angle marked on the sharpener. The same kit is advertised on the 'bay here
you need to know the file size - in my case it was 4mm (easy as the I took the blade to the shop). It may be documented in the saw manual.

The third item in the diagram has all the angles and the depth gauge to ensure the limiters are low enough as the teeth get shorter through filing.

Once sharpened the difference was amazing!

Dave

 

[big soft moose]

Then you have the professionals

This phalic-head was taking down a couple of our trees and in this photo up a ladder hanging on with his left hand with the saw about a foot in front of his throat!

not to mention without putting a gob cut in the other side first - muppet.

the thing with "proffesionals" is that there are three classes

first up there are jobbing gardeners who just went out and bought a saw, asking one of these to take down a big tree is like asking a pumber to perform brain surgery

then there are folk like me ( I'm a countryside manager / rights of way officer) who generally know what we are doing and have the right gear (and insurance) - but who also know what we cant do and will also tell you where to get off if you want us to fell a 100ft oak tree thats located 5 yards from your house

then you have the creme dela creme - proffesional arborists , who can take down any tree in any situation - for a price.

trouble is than any one of them (us) could legitimately describe ourselves as a tree surgeon so its hard to make sure you get the right person unless you faff about taking up references etc.

 

[wizer]

All noted Pete, will certainly get the granules as I'm 'a bleeder'. I can't afford those trousers right now but I've just marked a few on ebay that are going cheap. I'll leave it alone for the time being, I've done the bulk of what I wanted to for now. The rest can wait for a bit.

 

[mark sanger]

it will help a great deal, but take care as they do not take prisoners.

 

[matt]

Just another thought on the subject of safety (one that always springs to mind with cordless tools v. mains tools) when there are kids about...

I always switch my circular saw off at the plug whenever I finish a cut (I have my vac in the same double socket and don't use the auto switch when using the saw because if the vac is howling at me I know I've forgotten to switch the saw off). Why do I do this? The thought of wandering off, especially if I've been working out the back in the garden, and my daughter picking up the saw... Doesn't bear thinking about. I won't have a cordless saw in the house.

N'theless... chainsaw gets used outside... I imagine you're already ultra careful but you may want to think about wiring a NVR switch in to an extension lead just in case the power ever trips.