Types of bandsaw blades

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marcus

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Can anyone tell me roughly how long bi-metal bandsaw blades last between sharpenings compared to TCT ones? And compared to standard carbon steel ones?
 
The commercial workshop where I am recently had a big project in teak. They went to TCT planer blades and bandsaw blades (actually stellite tipped bandsaw blades but I believe it's similar) because the previous blades were lasting literally just a few minutes in teak, once they'd transferred this went up to a few days for planer blades and a few weeks for the bandsaw blade.

I guess what I'm saying is that the longevity difference could be heavily influenced by choice of timbers.

In my home workshop I'd typically change the bandsaw blade (Super Tuff Premium) every two or three months, I changed to a Tuffsaws M42 Bi-Metallic early 2013 and it's still going strong. Over that time I reckon I've processed about thirty cubic feet of timber in various projects, including an eight seater oak dining table and a maple workbench.

Although the M42 blade is clearly a much longer lasting product I don't agree with some of the rave reviews I've read about M42 blades, it's good but the cut is no cleaner than Super Tuff Premium, the re-sawing capacity doesn't seem to me to be any better (I can comfortably cut a 1mm veneer from an 8" board with either blade), but the set and kerf on the M42 blade is noticeably wider. Where it would really score is if you're processing dodgy timbers with hidden nails. I cut up a pallet for firewood and accidentally nicked a few nails which would have spelt the end for any carbon steel blade, the M42 just chomped through them like butter.
 
OK thanks for that. I've been using TCT for a while (because I do a lot of re-sawing of thick timber for veneer) and I'm trying to work out if the cost of resharpening plus the occasional breakage is making this a false economy over a bi-metal. The TCT ones are really good, but the price has gone up a lot since I first started using them, and for some reason my bandsaw has developed a habit of scrunching them up when they break, so they can't be re-welded. This happened today on one I had just had resharpened, and it is a heavy hit to the bank balance. :-(

I know that the carbon steel ones are no good for me, but maybe a bi-metal would work. Are they straight forward to get resharpened do you know? (I use quite big blades with a low TPI, so it's usually worth it)
 
custard":1t3w6log said:
I cut up a pallet for firewood and accidentally nicked a few nails which would have spelt the end for any carbon steel blade, the M42 just chomped through them like butter.


+1 I use M42 blades from Tuffsaws to cut steel - solid bar stock, angle and box section - very long lasting.
MM
 
marcus":2uf2xb14 said:
I know that the carbon steel ones are no good for me, but maybe a bi-metal would work. Are they straight forward to get resharpened do you know? (I use quite big blades with a low TPI, so it's usually worth it)

Sorry Marcus, the M42 is the first bi metal blade I've used, and it's still a long way from needing to be sharpened so I just don't know! It's a Tuff Saws blade so maybe Ian would know?
 
TCT for all my resawing and standard ones for basic work.

I use a Lenox tri master 3 tpi and it cost around £95 and has lasted about 2 years so far, I use it for resawing maple and walnut but I think the lifespan is increased by not reducing the tension after every use which will weaken the blade and then a breakage will happen.

Ian
 
I use a Lenox tri master 3 tpi and it cost around £95

Crikey, that's a lot less than I am paying!! Can I ask how long/wide your Lenox blade is, and how much use it gets? Mine is 4170mm (13' 6") x 1 1/2" I have been paying over double that for mine :/ I guess I could go down to a 1" blade which would save a bit....

Looking at the Conway Saw website I see they are charging about £160 for my size for their own brand TCT blade at 1 1/4", which is less than I was charged for the Trimaster, but still well on the way to £200 once delivery and VAT is factored in....

Mine are in use every day, often on quite heavy stock (the bandsaw is basically what I rip everything on) and about every couple of months or so I tend to spend a few solid hours re-sawing for veneer, usually oak at about 10-12" thickness. The blades hold up well but I find that with the two I have I am having to send them to be sharpened about every 6 months (they are still OK for most things after that time, but they are starting to struggle with the thick re-sawing by then).

Then the trouble is that there is no one local to me who can sharpen them, as it's a bit specialised, so I have to pack them up and send them away, and then I am being charged a lot for the sharpening itself. Last time I was charged £50 plus VAT each. And I have had two blades break and lunch themselves inside the casing in the last year. A simple break would be OK as they are cheap to re-weld, but the way mine are breaking they can't be repaired, and that is the real killer. I de-tension them every night, and the breakages aren't that frequent, but if it means buying a new £200 blade every time it happens then I'm not sure the TCT route makes sense anymore — my calculations when I went this way were based on the assumption they could be re-welded several times during their lifetime.

So now there's always a bit of dread in the back of my mind now when I make a cut — is this cut going to cost me £200?! I can't work out why the blades have get so damaged when they break. I wonder if the heaviness of the Lenox bands are behind it.
 
Your are using quite a wide blade mine is 0nly 1/2" - works for me but I don't resaw as much as you - heavy use once a week.
 
Think I will probably buy a bi metal blade to replace the one that broke, and just see how it goes....
 
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