TS200...anyone ever had this problem!?

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lastminute

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Still in the process of tuning my TS200...mobile base frame now made and saw fixed to it..also having just fitted extension fence rails and now in the throes of making and fitting a piece of worktop instead of the metal tray which comes with the kit! I removed one of the side panels to gain more access I noticed the drive belt was slightly askew on the motor pulley!! (see pic..) ...so I removed the blade guard/ sawdust shute only to find this!!(see pic..) a metal strap (about 1" x 1/8") which was pushed right up into the drive belt and looked to have bent into a 'v' shape (or should it be like this?)
At the moment I'm at a loss!!
I need to know what function the 'bent' strap performs!! (when its straight!?)
I will have to remove the unit from the base to look up inside where I cannot see...pointing my camera there resulted in these pics!!
(1st pic is looking up behind where the strap is connected!)


ANY help will be appreciated.
Gerry
 

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There was a thread on this very subject about six months ago.

I can't remember the detail (and I should, as my Kity is similar!), but basically, that strap needs to be straight, not bent, and it's something to do with limiting the rise and fall (IIRC, and I probably don't!).

Do a search for TS200 over the last year or so and it will pop up I expect. I think the fix had more to do with hitting things with a big hammer than big expense...

HTH,

E.
 
Thanks Eric.... I found the post...exact same problem!...however, I think I've found the cause...ME!!!
I foolishly thought I could get away with using a lovely unused Freud 210 dia. blade, and was so pleased when I saw it disappear beneath the surface of the table...never realising thet I was unknowingly (at the same time) bending that flat strip of metal!
I've managed to remove it and 'straighten' it, and also put the correct size blade on (I must learn not to be so greedy!!!)
I'll post some pics soon

Thanks for your prompt help!!
Gerry
 
I've just come back on to the forum to Gerry to see what size blade it was you said you had managed to fit during the previous posts we exchanged regarding r/h extension tables... glad I did now ;-)

I'll stick to the 200mm for now!
 
I was tempted to use a slightly bigger blade when I ordered a new one for my TS200. I changed my mind though because I recalled the story of the DeWalt 'office bods' doing just that without increasing the Motor capacity, with slightly detrimental effects, on their RAS's.
 
As some may be aware, I did go for a 220mm blade in my TS-200 and so far all is well after quite a bit of cutting.

I can appreciate that a larger blade means a deeper cut which in turn results in more strain on the motor so it's up to the individual whether they want to perform a mod like this for a few extra mm of cutting ability. In my limited experience, keeping the blade sharp will have more of an effect in reducing strain on the motor.

I can say that the bit of metal that the OP shows in his pics, on my saw is straight and I wonder how this can bend like this? Is it done by trying to wind the blade down too far?

I know my blade when fully down protrudes about 1mm above the insert and so I know when to stop winding. How much force is needed to bend that metal strip?


Steve.
 
Mea Culpa!
I have found the cause of yours truly 'bending' that strip of metal (and hopefully the answer!).
See the pic and notice a small gap of about 5mm where the corner of the top right metal plate 'parks' itself when the blade drops below the table!
You will notice right on the corner that it has 'peined' over just a tiny bit! (I need to know how to draw and write on my pics..anyone?)
Because I had an 'oversized' blade in to start with, I wound the handle a bit further than I should have in order to drop below the table top!!..WRONG!!!!
Its easy to see how bending that metal strip went unnoticed...
The action of turning a handle operating a screw thread does not take a lot of force!!(Car Jack!) Thats my thought anyway!
So I have riveted a 'stop' plate to bridge the gap...hope the pic explains all!
The next post pic should make it clearer!

More to follow...
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Bad pic sorry!
Here is some more which should show better!
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...and some showing the the 'stop' plate, which I feel has a definate stop when it hits the opposing plate!
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This pic shows position when blade is at max cut!
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Whilst on about the TS200, can anyone tell me what is the purpose of the rear rail on the TS200?
The far end of the long fence does not reach it (or should it?)

...see here!
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...and here!
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Same here, fitted some angle iron from wickes on each side to make the whole thing more rigid and also to make the side table run flush with the main table. Before the mod, the weight made the side table drop slightly.

004-Copy.jpg


Steve.
 
lastminute":3mqd3rnj said:
(That's what the rear rail is for...Numpty!!)

Answering yourself and calling yourself names............ I do it all the time, sign of Genius I reckon. :D

Rear Rail... I was surprised the fence fell short of it. Would have thought it would have made it smoother to operate. As it is I've fixed a bit of Polycarb under the far end of mine, improved it no end.
 
On my Kity, the extrusions are the same as the TS200. The Kity came (3rd hand but well looked-after) with another clamp that fits the rear rail. This locates in the same rebate on the fence that the main, infeed-end clamp does, but is a loose fit, rather than tight. You set the fence at the infeed end, and then clamp the outfeed end to eliminate any play. At least, I guess that's how it's supposed to work - haven't got a manual, but it's not that complicated.

As you 'pointed out' (numpty? not really - after all you sorted your original problem out!) the rails do double-duty: aligning the fence, but also supporting the extension tables. I'm short on round tuits at the moment, but a full setup on the Kity is becoming essential, including shimming the tables (groan). It's not the greatest clamping arrangement I've ever seen (but I have a plan...)

E.
 

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