Trying linseed paint - £141.68 for 1 litre

[ColeyS1]

" Last window I did was with a 3 pack Dulux paint. Did it around 6-7 years ago and will have a look see how it's fairing today.

So this is the window and all still perfect but it darn well should be. Think it was a pack of three products. One being a preserver and presumably primer and gloss.

Sorry the pictures are terrible and the marks are just dirt.

Looks like the paints doing its job well.

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[ColeyS1]

Just had a read through the handbook.

The moisture content of the sapele was 11% so I think this probably fits the wood being dry category which would also support Jacobs recommendation to prime with linseed first. I can't think of any reason this might have a negative effect. The bit on the right hand side is also interesting. A finishing coat of linseed oil can also help even out the colour.
I'm quietly confident the next thing I paint (from start to finish)should have less issues, providing I use linseed soap instead of meths/white spirit and give it an initial lick of oil.

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[Chip shop]

Sorry for the hijack, but has anyone bought any black linseed paint recently? I think the last lot I bought was from some outfit called Precious Earth who don't seem to do it anymore.

www.oldhousestore.co.uk/ carry the Allback stuff, but don't seem to do it in black. I've emailed them, so I'll see what they come up with. Does anyone know of anymore UK suppliers?

 

[Phil Pascoe]

A quick google will show two or three other linseed paint manufacturers that make black.

 

[ColeyS1]

One thing I'm finding surprising with this thread is the amount of people that also use linseed paint. For a very long time I thought it was just Jacob who rated it.

To avoid a chance of ballsing up the next sample I've ordered a litre of raw linseed oil and also some linseed soap to wash down and prime before the paint. If the sample still has issues after that, then linseed paint isn't for me !




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[Jacob]

..... If the sample still has issues after that, then linseed paint isn't for me ! ...

If the sample still has issues you dunnit wrong! Don't blame the paint!

 

[ColeyS1]

Just being practical Jacob. If the next sample is done precisely as you and the handbook say using the recommended products and it's still patchy, then it's not going to fill me with joy. If the sample fails miserably compared with your much hated 'modern paints' then again, it's not gonna be my go to paint. On your woodworkuk thread you seemed to have your fair share of problems. There's also the other issue of it potentially looked faded and garbage after a few years. Not many people are gonna want their brand new external joinery looking worn and knackered after 3 years. If all it takes is a lick of oil to refresh it, the same could be said for the modern paint. A lick of paint after 3 years would also increase the modern paints durability.
I've got this awful feeling I keep trying to put to the back of my mind, that your constant dislike for modern paints is down to 1 or 2 jobs where you used acrylic primer. Until I've done a series of samples to weather outside its only one persons word against another .
The door I spoke of that was outside in the elements with just aluminum primer for six years completely contradicts your modern paints are rubbish view.

I'm keeping an open mind with it but there needs to be a point where I stop. If after ticking all the boxes, perhaps after a final coat of oil to even out the colour it's still looking gash, I'm not gonna keep on trying different colours and brands hoping to find one that works.
If you've got some paint, help a fella out and splash a bit on some wood to see how it differs. Raid your paint store and get some samples done. If a few people do samples and the results are all the same then it's obviously good.



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[Chip shop]

In my limited experience (other than the white) it's been brilliant. I have to agree with Jacob. It's easy to paint on and get a decent finish. I've been looking at a load of doors, a window and a porch repair that I did on a place about 6 years ago (all in black) today, and they still look great.

One observation I will make, however, is they were all in unsorted. No hardwood, so maybe that is an issue?

A quick google will show two or three other linseed paint manufacturers that make black.

Hi Phil,

I don't mean to sound sarcastic, but Google did occur to me. A couple of links would be cool, as I'm struggling to find anyone who will actually sell me some.

All the best,

Ed.

 

[ColeyS1]

Thanks Ed, that's good to hear. Do you bother wiping down with linseed soap and priming with oil, or is it a belt and braces approach ? I don't think I can be any fairer than trying it. I'd sooner iron out these little issues on my own stuff to start with before thinking of doing it on somebody elses.


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[Chip shop]

Thanks Ed, that's good to hear. Do you bother wiping down with linseed soap and priming with oil, or is it a belt and braces approach ? I don't think I can be any fairer than trying it. I'd sooner iron out these little issues on my own stuff to start with before thinking of doing it on somebody elses.


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I've never bothered with the linseed soap (never heard of it if I'm honest), but always prime with patent knotting (all over) then a coat of linseed oil. Wait a bit for it to try then on with the paint. The knotting raises the grain and the oil primer seems to key better. Please note; this knotting priming business is something that I cooked up myself. There is no tech data that supports this and it was done on a whim, but does seem to work.

 

[Jacob]

.....
One observation I will make, however, is they were all in unsorted. No hardwood, so maybe that is an issue?.....

Me too. I don't see the point of using hardwood under paint. It costs a lot more with no obvious advantage.

 

[ColeyS1]

Thanks Ed, that's good to hear. Do you bother wiping down with linseed soap and priming with oil, or is it a belt and braces approach ? I don't think I can be any fairer than trying it. I'd sooner iron out these little issues on my own stuff to start with before thinking of doing it on somebody elses.


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I've never bothered with the linseed soap (never heard of it if I'm honest), but always prime with patent knotting (all over) then a coat of linseed oil. Wait a bit for it to try then on with the paint. The knotting raises the grain and the oil primer seems to key better. Please note; this knotting priming business is something that I cooked up myself. There is no tech data that supports this and it was done on a whim, but does seem to work.

First hand experience. Appreciate the honesty Ed. Did you choose linseed paint or was it specified for the job ?

Slightly off topic- I tried bedec barn paint a few years ago on my own projects. Everything about it rang alarm bells- waterbased, quick drying etc but it's been absolutely brilliant so far. I like trying new things especially if something useful comes from it. This is a learning curve and I'll give it a fair chance. That said I have to trial it properly before deciding to use it as my go to paint.
Years ago there was a new wood finish that was everywhere. Everyone recommended it despite it only being around for a relatively short amount of time. It was my go to finish for natural finish external woodwork,but without warning it vanished from the shelves. Supposedly a temporary thing whilst they ironed out a few issues. Apparently they had numerous complaints of the finish going mouldy so had no choice but to pull it from sale. The temporary pulling lasted 10+ years!!! It was only the other day I decided to Google them to see if anything had changed. It was back on the shelves but completely different formula (no longer waterbased) A few exchanged emails and they openly admitted the first products faults and then explained how the new product is completely different. - sent out a few samples to try as well !

So maybe that's why I'm a little cautious now. I recall a lot of annoyed faces when it came to recoating time, only for me to tell them it was no longer available and they'd be best to find something different.


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[Phil Pascoe]

In my limited experience (other than the white) it's been brilliant. I have to agree with Jacob. It's easy to paint on and get a decent finish. I've been looking at a load of doors, a window and a porch repair that I did on a place about 6 years ago (all in black) today, and they still look great.

One observation I will make, however, is they were all in unsorted. No hardwood, so maybe that is an issue?

A quick google will show two or three other linseed paint manufacturers that make black.

Hi Phil,

I don't mean to sound sarcastic, but Google did occur to me. A couple of links would be cool, as I'm struggling to find anyone who will actually sell me some.

All the best,

Ed.

http://www.linseedpaintcompany.co.uk/ourproducts.html
http://www.traditionalpaint.co.uk/pure- ... paint.html

Both appear to.

 

[Chip shop]

Thanks Ed, that's good to hear. Do you bother wiping down with linseed soap and priming with oil, or is it a belt and braces approach ? I don't think I can be any fairer than trying it. I'd sooner iron out these little issues on my own stuff to start with before thinking of doing it on somebody elses.


Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

I've never bothered with the linseed soap (never heard of it if I'm honest), but always prime with patent knotting (all over) then a coat of linseed oil. Wait a bit for it to try then on with the paint. The knotting raises the grain and the oil primer seems to key better. Please note; this knotting priming business is something that I cooked up myself. There is no tech data that supports this and it was done on a whim, but does seem to work.

First hand experience. Appreciate the honesty Ed. Did you choose linseed paint or was it specified for the job ?

Slightly off topic- I tried bedec barn paint a few years ago on my own projects. Everything about it rang alarm bells- waterbased, quick drying etc but it's been absolutely brilliant so far. I like trying new things especially if something useful comes from it. This is a learning curve and I'll give it a fair chance. That said I have to trial it properly before deciding to use it as my go to paint.
Years ago there was a new wood finish that was everywhere. Everyone recommended it despite it only being around for a relatively short amount of time. It was my go to finish for natural finish external woodwork,but without warning it vanished from the shelves. Supposedly a temporary thing whilst they ironed out a few issues. Apparently they had numerous complaints of the finish going mouldy so had no choice but to pull it from sale. The temporary pulling lasted 10+ years!!! It was only the other day I decided to Google them to see if anything had changed. It was back on the shelves but completely different formula (no longer waterbased) A few exchanged emails and they openly admitted the first products faults and then explained how the new product is completely different. - sent out a few samples to try as well !

So maybe that's why I'm a little cautious now. I recall a lot of annoyed faces when it came to recoating time, only for me to tell them it was no longer available and they'd be best to find something different.


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To be honest that is what is starting to bother me. It's gone from Holkham to Allback with different colour descriptions over the last couple of years. If I can't get black now I'm going to have to explain to the client that all the boll'x that I sold them about the fancy paint is just that...boll'x.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

" Last window I did was with a 3 pack Dulux paint. Did it around 6-7 years ago and will have a look see how it's fairing today.

So this is the window and all still perfect but it darn well should be. Think it was a pack of three products. One being a preserver and presumably primer and gloss.

Sorry the pictures are terrible and the marks are just dirt.[/quote
]Looks like the paints doing its job well.

I did my fascias with cuprinol, ali primer, two undercoats and one gloss, both Dulux Weathershield and didn't get back to them for fourteen years - I washed them and repainted, no signs of any deterioration.

 

[Jacob]

.........

I've never bothered with the linseed soap (never heard of it if I'm honest), but always prime with patent knotting (all over) then a coat of linseed oil. Wait a bit for it to try then on with the paint. The knotting raises the grain and the oil primer seems to key better. Please note; this knotting priming business is something that I cooked up myself. There is no tech data that supports this and it was done on a whim, but does seem to work.

First hand experience. Appreciate the honesty Ed. Did you choose linseed paint or was it specified for the job ?

Slightly off topic- I tried bedec barn paint a few years ago on my own projects. Everything about it rang alarm bells- waterbased, quick drying etc but it's been absolutely brilliant so far. I like trying new things especially if something useful comes from it. This is a learning curve and I'll give it a fair chance. That said I have to trial it properly before deciding to use it as my go to paint.
Years ago there was a new wood finish that was everywhere. Everyone recommended it despite it only being around for a relatively short amount of time. It was my go to finish for natural finish external woodwork,but without warning it vanished from the shelves. Supposedly a temporary thing whilst they ironed out a few issues. Apparently they had numerous complaints of the finish going mouldy so had no choice but to pull it from sale. The temporary pulling lasted 10+ years!!! It was only the other day I decided to Google them to see if anything had changed. It was back on the shelves but completely different formula (no longer waterbased) A few exchanged emails and they openly admitted the first products faults and then explained how the new product is completely different. - sent out a few samples to try as well !

So maybe that's why I'm a little cautious now. I recall a lot of annoyed faces when it came to recoating time, only for me to tell them it was no longer available and they'd be best to find something different.


Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

To be honest that is what is starting to bother me. It's gone from Holkham to Allback with different colour descriptions over the last couple of years. If I can't get black now I'm going to have to explain to the client that all the boll'x that I sold them about the fancy paint is just that...boll'x.

I got a tin of Allback black from Oldhousestore I think. Painted our old iron gate. Looks black still!
Holkham was marketing Allback under its own name - its the same stuff.

 

[Jacob]

.........

I've never bothered with the linseed soap (never heard of it if I'm honest), but always prime with patent knotting (all over) then a coat of linseed oil. Wait a bit for it to try then on with the paint. The knotting raises the grain and the oil primer seems to key better. Please note; this knotting priming business is something that I cooked up myself. There is no tech data that supports this and it was done on a whim, but does seem to work.

Shellac knotting as primer is well known as extremely effective. I've removed old joinery where the only bits still in good condition were the dabs of knotting and the wood underneath. It was used a lot in glazing rebates which keeps them in very good nick and also easy to restore/reglaze etc.

 

[ColeyS1]

" Last window I did was with a 3 pack Dulux paint. Did it around 6-7 years ago and will have a look see how it's fairing today.

So this is the window and all still perfect but it darn well should be. Think it was a pack of three products. One being a preserver and presumably primer and gloss.

Sorry the pictures are terrible and the marks are just dirt.[/quote
]Looks like the paints doing its job well.

I did my fascias with cuprinol, ali primer, two undercoats and one gloss, both Dulux Weathershield and didn't get back to them for fourteen years - I washed them and repainted, no signs of any deterioration.

Whaaaaat!! $£€*#$%!! Wowsers. I'd say it lasted pretty well then. Thanks Phil

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[Chip shop]

I got a tin of Allback black from Oldhousestore I think. Painted our old iron gate. Looks black still!
Holkham was marketing Allback under its own name - its the same stuff.

Fair enough, but where do I get a tin of black from now? I've tried ringing and emailing them with no joy.

I think the point is, although I really like the paint, from a trade perspective, the distribution seems a little unreliable. The last lot I ordered took about a month to arrive (from Precious Earth not Oldhousestore).

 

[ColeyS1]

I couldn't get the number to work on oldhousestores website. The number on the tin worked o.k though. 01189469146

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