Traditional Bed frame

[SMALMALEKI]

Attention all experienced woodworkers!
I'm currently considering the exciting project of constructing a double bed frame and I could use your expertise. The design I have in mind includes a headboard and footboard crafted from three and two planks respectively, morticed into the legs.
However, I would like to ensure that the side rails can be easily detached from the legs for convenient disassembly. I'm curious to know your preferred method for joining the rails to the legs while maintaining this detachable feature.
Your valuable input and suggestions would be greatly appreciated! Thank you in advance

 

[sams93]

We used these type of things when making our bed, it’s a super king and is absolutely solid.

The ones we used were from Rockler and were solid. You do have to make sure to mortise out behind the slots where the hooks will protrude into your post behind the female bracket.

 

[Ed Weber]

Bed rail hook plates are the way to go IMO.
If installed correctly, they wedge tight for a solid connection
example
https://www.rockler.com/bed-rail-hooks

 

[SMALMALEKI]

We used these type of things when making our bed, it’s a super king and is absolutely solid.

The ones we used were from Rockler and were solid. You do have to make sure to mortise out behind the slots where the hooks will protrude into your post behind the female bracket.

That's an amazing bed. I love your project. I've made one before a couple of years ago with through mortice and wedge fixation. It's solid and has no hardware .
My wife doesn't want the same design.

 

[Orraloon]

I have made a few beds over the years and the last couple I used bed hook hardware. Anything larger than a single has to come apart simply to get it through the doorway.

12 years on and no problems with the hardware. The design of the hooks means they keep tight with weight on them. There is a center support rail that uses the small rectangular brackets. I used 100 x 19mm pine slats.
Regards
John

 

[ColinDeVelen]

No 2 son got a mattress as a christmas present a year or so ago. Of course, it was cheap because it was not a standard size, so I had to make the frame. To make the side rails detachable, I used mortise and tenon joints with two hefty drawbore pins on each. These went all the way through, and protrude on the non-visible inside of the frame, so that they can be knocked back out if he ever leaves home. So far, no sign of them coming loose (or him leaving home).

 

[Orraloon]

Good point on the mattress size. There are so many non standard size ones you wonder if there is a standard. The mattress you have is the best starting point for measurements before cutting any wood.
Regards
John

 

[SMALMALEKI]

I have made a few beds over the years and the last couple I used bed hook hardware. Anything larger than a single has to come apart simply to get it through the doorway.
View attachment 160844View attachment 160845View attachment 160846View attachment 160847
12 years on and no problems with the hardware. The design of the hooks means they keep tight with weight on them. There is a center support rail that uses the small rectangular brackets. I used 100 x 19mm pine slats.
Regards
John

From all the replies I gather the best way forward is using some sort of hardware. Drawbore was mentioned but I am not sure how easy it is going to be to take the dowels out after a period of time.

 

[SMALMALEKI]

thank you for sharing your experiences here. It seems very attractive idea but for removing the dowels after a period of time.

 

[Homeless Squirrel]

No 2 son got a mattress as a christmas present a year or so ago. Of course, it was cheap because it was not a standard size, so I had to make the frame. To make the side rails detachable, I used mortise and tenon joints with two hefty drawbore pins on each. These went all the way through, and protrude on the non-visible inside of the frame, so that they can be knocked back out if he ever leaves home. So far, no sign of them coming loose (or him leaving home).

Perhaps if pins "got Woodworm"? And fell out, he might up sticks and depart?

 

[Homeless Squirrel]

From all the replies I gather the best way forward is using some sort of hardware. Drawbore was mentioned but I am not sure how easy it is going to be to take the dowels out after a period of time.

when i made mine out of planks i screwed them to legs with decent size screws torx headed with cup washer under them so a feature and have a square piece of wood just below so sides rest on them then fastened in and no movement at all. and square piece can carve/fashion etc to your hearts content!?

When need to shift can undo screws and sides come off.

 

[Agent_zed]

I built a four poster bed in a very similar design to Indigo designs merchant bed. This one is the same Derbyshire Handmade Solid Plank Four Poster Bed by Incite, although mine is in oak.

I morticed and tenon'd the planks into the posts. The side rails are held in with a couple of screws hidden on the inside of the post.

there is also a vertical board in the center running head to foot to support the middle. This also holds the headboard and footboard together.

5 years and it's holding solid.

 

[pe2dave]

Brings back memories.
I had the 'Readers digest DIY manual' of the time.
Bought our first house, moved in, had wood delivered, made the bed and slept in it that night,
though the blisters from hand driving all those screws.... lasted weeks.

 

[Jacob]

Very traditional is a long bolt and captive nut in the rail. Big ones say 12" long, 5/8 diameter and a coarse thread. Perhaps add a dowel in a bracket to keep things aligned.

 

[Orraloon]

Very traditional is a long bolt and captive nut in the rail. Big ones say 12" long, 5/8 diameter and a coarse thread. Perhaps add a dowel in a bracket to keep things aligned.

Bed bolts are still quite the thing in the USA. I looked into it a few years ago and they have fancy metal caps to cover the hole where the bolt head is. Could not find them for sale in Australia however. I did use the bolt idea in my workbench so I could take it apart for moving. Makes a rock solid frame.

Find a way to cover the bolt head hole and its a very practical option.
Regards
John

 

[glenfield2]

Brings back memories.
I had the 'Readers digest DIY manual' of the time.
Bought our first house, moved in, had wood delivered, made the bed and slept in it that night,
though the blisters from hand driving all those screws.... lasted weeks.

This was my DIY starter - renovated our first house with it: plumbing, re-wiring, woodworking, the lot. So simple then!

 

[gcusick]

I used these:

https://bedslats.co.uk/collections/heavy-duty-bed-connecting-system
to repair a commercial bed frame that had used hook plates at the corners, and had started to creak alarmingly. I used 2 of the fittings per corner, 6 or 7 years ago, and they’re still completely secure.

 

[Sideways]

I've made a double and two singles in ash. The sides are snug fit mortise and tenon joints into the head and foot boards. I then use 1" steel angle on the inside of the joint to keep the M&T pulled in tight.
All three beds will need to be disassembled for the first time in the next few months to allow redecorating so I'll soon find out how well the idea works in practice.
.... June
And the first take down and reassembly worked fine
Here's the idea. My priority was no visible fixing from the outside. In use the brackets on the inside aren't noticeable.

Like some others, I use slats and some supporting rail sourced from Ikea. You sumply can't make it for the price.

 

[Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)]

Attention all experienced woodworkers!
I'm currently considering the exciting project of constructing a double bed frame and I could use your expertise. The design I have in mind includes a headboard and footboard crafted from three and two planks respectively, morticed into the legs.
However, I would like to ensure that the side rails can be easily detached from the legs for convenient disassembly. I'm curious to know your preferred method for joining the rails to the legs while maintaining this detachable feature.
Your valuable input and suggestions would be greatly appreciated! Thank you in advance

I have a step-by-step article on my website that uses loose mortice-and-tenon joinery for the tail- and head ends, and hidden bed bolts for the side rails. http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/BedsandBedhead.html

The result is clean ends like this ...

The headboard features laminated curved slats, and is attached to the wall with french cleats ...

You are welcome to take from the design and build what is helpful to you.

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[Sean33]

I have made a few beds over the years and the last couple I used bed hook hardware. Anything larger than a single has to come apart simply to get it through the doorway.
View attachment 160844View attachment 160845View attachment 160846View attachment 160847
12 years on and no problems with the hardware. The design of the hooks means they keep tight with weight on them. There is a center support rail that uses the small rectangular brackets. I used 100 x 19mm pine slats.
Regards
John

Just used similar hardware on a floating bed, normally prefer M&T joinery but this had some rather expensive upholstery on it and didn't want to get glue all over the place, very happy with how they perform