Track saw / Plunge saw advice please

[Speedbird1]

I am currently in the market for one of the above (apologies for the various names but I can't seem to work out their actual name)
I am only a hobbyist and the saw will not get much use so the likes of DeWalt et al are not on my radar.
I will require it to be guided by a rail mostly and that's as much as I can offer.
I see there are differences in blade diameter, what are the pros and cons, and is it purely down the depth of material i'll be cutting, or is there more to this facet?
I think the largest I will be cutting is 8x4 sheet maybe 18mm thick? I can't exclude everything else but cannot see it happening either.
Any advice please?
Mike

 

[Flynnwood]

Peter Millard has a playlist on this subject - worth watching before you choose:

 

[Essex Barn Workshop]

Flynnwood got there first! Peter's playlist will tell you all you need to know.
personally, I bought the ebauer from screwfix. It's ok for what I want it to do.

 

[Lazurus]

As I already had a couple of saws I went for the below, I must say I am quite impressed, easy to use and breaks down for smaller cuts.

https://www.kregtool.com/shop/cutting/circular-saw-cutting/straight-edge-guide-xl/KMA4700.html

 

[Speedbird1]

Peter Millard has a playlist on this subject - worth watching before you choose:

@Flynnwood Thank you, will do.

 

[Spectric]

Maybe you don't need a tracksaw, people have cut sheet goods long before the tracksaw came on the scene. I used a Bosch GKS65 and a length of angle iron for many years before giving in and buying the Makita SP6001, yes it has made things a lot easier and faster but the end result is the same. Sometimes it is better to look at alternative methods that could deliver better results than just buying a cheaper version of another method, ie a tracksaw.

Quick comparison, my Makita has a 165mm blade and is 1300 Watts, my old bosch has a 190mm blade and a 1600 Watt motor.

 

[Speedbird1]

Maybe you don't need a tracksaw, people have cut sheet goods long before the tracksaw came on the scene. I used a Bosch GKS65 and a length of angle iron for many years before giving in and buying the Makita SP6001, yes it has made things a lot easier and faster but the end result is the same. Sometimes it is better to look at alternative methods that could deliver better results than just buy a cheaper version of another method, ie a tracksaw.

Quick comparison, my Makita has a 165mm blade and is 1300 Watts, my old bosch has a 190mm blade and a 1600 Watt motor.

@Spectric
Thank you you've given me food for thought there.

 

[aforjeh]

I have one of these to sell if you’re interested? Little used, with a set of 3 spare blades.

https://www.rutlands.com/sp+sawing-power-saws-plunge-saws-plunge-saw-with-14m-guide-rail-rutlands®+r1608

Collection from calderdale or could probably post…

 

[Speedbird1]

I have one of these to sell if you’re interested? Little used, with a set of 3 spare blades.

https://www.rutlands.com/sp+sawing-power-saws-plunge-saws-plunge-saw-with-14m-guide-rail-rutlands®+r1608

Collection from calderdale or could probably post…

@aforjeh
Thanks for that, a couple of questions if I may?
How much?
I guess that it's not 14m but 1.4m track. Is that one piece.
Why are you getting rid?
You're not a million miles from me so collection would not be an issue.
Thanks again
Mike

 

[ivan]

Not all track saws are of the hinge forward plunge type; some Mafells drop into the work on 2 columns, like a plunge router.
The main advantage of an expensive saw is a more stable blade/shaft, so the blade tips run more stably, which reduces the possibility of chipping the edges of the cut material (think melamine, or expensive veneered MDF).
However, having to do some work at my parent's house some distance away from home, I tried a Lidl plunge saw at about 70 quid, and it's really quite good. The supplied track is very short and not much use. Fitted with an upmarket blade and running on a length of cheapish Evolution (Festool clone) track there was not much to complain about. To limit chipping, if you are careful, you can start a shallow cut at the far side of the work - 3mm say, no more, and cut toward yourself, this is a climb cut, so the top surface is cut downward, so no splintering is possible. Reset the saw depth for a full cut, and cut away from yourself back to the start point. there will be no chipping on the bottom of the cut either. This worked a treat with the cheap saw, but can't say how long before a bit of wear means the blade does not track back and forth exactly in line. The usual problem with cheap stuff is often poor tolerance roller bearings, so it might pay to get the saw shaft bearings replaced with branded items. Do NOT atempt this technique without a proper track saw. Do not forget to reset the cut to 3mm. If you try to climb cut at full depth the saw will run away with you and end up in your groin in a jiffy...

No need for the above proceedure for general work, just when chipping could be a problem. I first saw this at a Mafell trade demo.

 

[Jameshow]

Not all track saws are of the hinge forward plunge type; some Mafells drop into the work on 2 columns, like a plunge router.
The main advantage of an expensive saw is a more stable blade/shaft, so the blade tips run more stably, which reduces the possibility of chipping the edges of the cut material (think melamine, or expensive veneered MDF).
However, having to do some work at my parent's house some distance away from home, I tried a Lidl plunge saw at about 70 quid, and it's really quite good. The supplied track is very short and not much use. Fitted with an upmarket blade and running on a length of cheapish Evolution (Festool clone) track there was not much to complain about. To limit chipping, if you are careful, you can start a shallow cut at the far side of the work - 3mm say, no more, and cut toward yourself, this is a climb cut, so the top surface is cut downward, so no splintering is possible. Reset the saw depth for a full cut, and cut away from yourself back to the start point. there will be no chipping on the bottom of the cut either. This worked a treat with the cheap saw, but can't say how long before a bit of wear means the blade does not track back and forth exactly in line. The usual problem with cheap stuff is often poor tolerance roller bearings, so it might pay to get the saw shaft bearings replaced with branded items. Do NOT atempt this technique without a proper track saw. Do not forget to reset the cut to 3mm. If you try to climb cut at full depth the saw will run away with you and end up in your groin in a jiffy...

No need for the above proceedure for general work, just when chipping could be a problem. I first saw this at a Mafell trade demo.

Why would this not work on a normal circular saw esp a smaller one or cordless??

 

[undergroundhunter]

I had the erbauer for about 4 years with a mix of Makita and evolution tracks, it was a great saw for the money, I did upgrade it to a festool which is a different beast, the accuracy is on another level but obviously it's 4x the price of the erbauer.

Matt

 

[Speedbird1]

I had the erbauer for about 4 years with a mix of Makita and evolution tracks, it was a great saw for the money, I did upgrade it to a festool which is a different beast, the accuracy is on another level but obviously it's 4x the price of the erbauer.

Matt

@undergroundhunter Thank you for your help

 

[Speedbird1]

Not all track saws are of the hinge forward plunge type; some Mafells drop into the work on 2 columns, like a plunge router.
The main advantage of an expensive saw is a more stable blade/shaft, so the blade tips run more stably, which reduces the possibility of chipping the edges of the cut material (think melamine, or expensive veneered MDF).
However, having to do some work at my parent's house some distance away from home, I tried a Lidl plunge saw at about 70 quid, and it's really quite good. The supplied track is very short and not much use. Fitted with an upmarket blade and running on a length of cheapish Evolution (Festool clone) track there was not much to complain about. To limit chipping, if you are careful, you can start a shallow cut at the far side of the work - 3mm say, no more, and cut toward yourself, this is a climb cut, so the top surface is cut downward, so no splintering is possible. Reset the saw depth for a full cut, and cut away from yourself back to the start point. there will be no chipping on the bottom of the cut either. This worked a treat with the cheap saw, but can't say how long before a bit of wear means the blade does not track back and forth exactly in line. The usual problem with cheap stuff is often poor tolerance roller bearings, so it might pay to get the saw shaft bearings replaced with branded items. Do NOT atempt this technique without a proper track saw. Do not forget to reset the cut to 3mm. If you try to climb cut at full depth the saw will run away with you and end up in your groin in a jiffy...

No need for the above proceedure for general work, just when chipping could be a problem. I first saw this at a Mafell trade demo.

@ivan Thank you very much for that explanation. I will do some searching to find a video showing what you describe as I can see myself at this level losing a leg at the very least haha.
It sort of makes sense as to why it would minimise tear out but I would like to see it rather than just picture it in my mind. I'll Youtube "Climb cut"
Thank you again.

 

[Spectric]

I did upgrade it to a festool which is a different beast, the accuracy is on another level but obviously it's 4x the price of the erbauer.

Just upgrading to a Makita will deliver great results but at less than 4 times the cost, or the Bosch which is a close enough copy of the Maefel to not worry or even the dewalt which also gets some great reviews. Look at the online video's and here is a chart I knocked up when looking. Ignore prices as they are out of date .

		Makita SP6000J2		Bosch GKT55GCE		Dewalt DWS520KTR		Festool TS55R		Mafell MT55CCKIT
Motor Pin		1300 Watts		1400 Watts		1300 Watts		1200 Watts		1400 Watts
Blade Dia		165mm		165mm		165mm		160mm		162mm
Depth of cut
90°		55mm		57mm		55mm		55mm		57mm
45°		39mm		42mm		40mm		43mm		40mm
Weight		4.2Kg		4.7Kg		5.1Kg		4.5Kg		4.7Kg
Nearest cut		18mm		29mm				12mm		24mm
from wall
No load Rpm		2000 - 5200 Rpm		3600 - 6250 Rpm		1750 - 4000 Rpm		2000 - 5800 Rpm		3600 - 6250 Rpm
Riving knive		No		No		Yes		Yes		No
Price inc VAT	£400		£469		£414		£619		£636
plus 2 rails
NOTES
The Bosch saw is manufactured by Mafell.
The depth scale on the Makita does not compensate when on a track but has a 2mm scoring depth setting.
The Dewalt lacks a positive stop at 45°.