Tormek T7 advice sought

[devonwoody]

Am I correct in thinking that to use this sharpening system, mass sharpening is not the way to go.

If you want to use the 220 grit, I would want to grind all my tools first at this grade and then change to the 1000 grit, but this means you have taken the blade out each time to start the next one and then you would not exactly match the original grind when putting the blades back in for second grind.

In the old days I watched my grandad hone is cutthroat razor on a leather strop which I think he impregnated with chalk or talcum power, anyone use something like this on their honing wheel?

 

[Smudger]

It only takes a few seconds to re-dress the wheel, but if I have more than one cutter to do at a time I do them sequentially, rather than as batches.
On the honing wheel I use 3-in-1 oil and Tormek's honing compound.

 

[dunbarhamlin]

I use talc on my strop. Just how I was shown.
I use my wet grinder just to grind a hollow in the bezel and then hone freehand (the hollow grind makes registration ridiculously easy.)

 

[devonwoody]

I will try some of the wifes' talc. next time.

I think Tormek could have geared the honing wheel so that it was not necessary to lift and turn the machine round, also then have the horizontal bar combined on the same side has vertical support system, and perhaps a horizontal bar that crosses both wheels.

But perhaps time will tell me differently.

 

[Paul Chapman]

I think Tormek could have geared the honing wheel so that it was not necessary to lift and turn the machine round

If you find it difficult to lift and turn, DW, why not make a turntable (lockable) to stand it on :-k

I've just bought a T7 as well and think it's a great machine - wish I'd bought one years ago.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[Philly]

I use my wet grinder just to grind a hollow in the bezel and then hone freehand (the hollow grind makes registration ridiculously easy.)

Amen!
Philly

 

[devonwoody]

I use my wet grinder just to grind a hollow in the bezel and then hone freehand (the hollow grind makes registration ridiculously easy.)

Amen!
Philly

Could you elucidate a bit further please for this ignoramius.

 

[devonwoody]

Paul, that sounds a good idea, I wonder if my wife will miss her lazy susan!

 

[dunbarhamlin]

A hollow ground bezel gives two thin lines of contact on a flat stone, at the edge and at the heel, which makes it very easy to acquire and maintain your honing angle while freehanding. It takes but a few strokes on a fine stone (arkansas, water, ceramic - whatever.)

The ground hollow can be as coarse as you like, and only needs refreshing when the honed edge contact point has widened through multiple honings. Just like using a secondary bezel, but the resulting bevel is the same as the original grind angle.

I used to just use a single bezel on a sequence of stones, but find this much quicker.

Still use almost a Derbyshire bezel on mortise chisels (Well, I break the heel by dipping at the end of the stroke for the primary bezel)

 

[devonwoody]

I can see your point regarding the two heights above the bezel, how do you produce your hollow, on the Tormek?

 

[dunbarhamlin]

Yep

 

[bugbear]

I use talc on my strop. Just how I was shown.

Given talc's position on the Moh scale, that's ... odd.

BugBear

 

[dunbarhamlin]

Which way odd, BB?
My guess is it just acts as a lubricant while I'm worrying the edge from the finishing stone. It does seem to make the edge a little more robust (than an unstropped edge) though of course that could just be a self justification thing.
Cheers
Steve

 

[devonwoody]

Which way odd, BB?
My guess is it just acts as a lubricant while I'm worrying the edge from the finishing stone. It does seem to make the edge a little more robust (than an unstropped edge) though of course that could just be a self justification thing.
Cheers
Steve

Do you think you could add water to talc or a vegtable oil and create the paste for the honing wheel instead of the dust flying around. which is what BB might be querying

 

[dunbarhamlin]

Ah, no, I use a flat strop - don't use the strop wheel, don't see the point since I'd still have to work the face/back/non-bevelled-side on a flat finishing stone and strop.
Should think soggy talc would just make a mess.

 

[bugbear]

Which way odd, BB?
My guess is it just acts as a lubricant while I'm worrying the edge from the finishing stone. It does seem to make the edge a little more robust (than an unstropped edge) though of course that could just be a self justification thing.
Cheers
Steve

Ah - you're not using it as an abrasive, super fine or otherwise. That makes sense. Most people add compounds that are intended to act act abrasives.

BugBear

 

[Bluekingfisher]

Morning Folks,

I was looking at the Axminster site this morning and noticed they have the Tormek sharpening systems on sale. £199 & £349

I have heard great things about them so was considering a pre Christmas splash on one of them.

My concern is that there is a huge gulf in the price of the two systems (8" & 10" versions)

My question is, is there a great difference in the capacities of the two versions and can the both versions use all the additional jigs?

Thanks David

 

[newt]

I can see your point regarding the two heights above the bezel, how do you produce your hollow, on the Tormek?

The ground hollow is automatic when using a circular grinding wheel