Tormek cutting stupidly slow

[devonwoody]

50mm

Thanks, so how does the Sorby cope with wider plane irons?
Doesnt it mean that one side of a blade gets more touch or does the system cope?

 

[wizer]

John you slide the iron left and right and even amount, just like a grinder. The pro=edge is a really attractive proposition, I'd have one in a shot if they were half the price.

 

[devonwoody]

I think I would prefer a belt or system that is wide enough for a jack plane iron, I will stick with my wet & dry paper on glass for the time being.

When you are coming off the belt or wheel there must be a difference in pressure being applied to the blade by the operator.

 

[gidon]

Don't use the black dressing stone after truing the wheel - you'll undo all the good work you've done with the diamond tool. I find the Tormek cuts pretty quickly after a fast past of the diamond truing tool.
Cheers
Gidon

 

[wizer]

When you are coming off the belt or wheel there must be a difference in pressure being applied to the blade by the operator.

But your never coming fully off the belt? You just rest one finger near the top centre. It's exactly the same as a grinder, surely?

 

[Jenx]

Miles... this is just a personal view, but I've stopped putting skews anywhere near an abraisive wheel now... its the only turning tool which I do this with, but its straight onto an oilstone for the skews with me... and they come off absolutely razor sharp.

Just an idea

 

[CHJ]

Miles... this is just a personal view, but I've stopped putting skews anywhere near an abraisive wheel now... its the only turning tool which I do this with, but its straight onto an oilstone for the skews with me... and they come off absolutely razor sharp.

Just an idea

Similarly, I only use a cheap diamond (on steel) stone to keep my skews sharp.
Initial bevel required formed on white wheel and finished off on diamond stone, from then on diamond only, usually only takes 3-4 passes per side to regain edge.

 

[miles_hot]

hi miles- at the bash i did the majority of reshaping of your gouge on a dry grinder then i got the razors edge on the tormek which is where it excells-
the tormek can re shape slightly but overall it is best at restoreing the razor edge to an existing profile which has been previously made by the tormek-
the first time you do any tool on the tormek you will have a more long winded job- and possibly do some on the dry grinder first, depending on how much of a change is needed.

yes - I have more or less come around to this view; there is still some thoughts about buying some other wheel - maybe the one from Childs - to cut faster however for the cost of this I could get a cheep grinder...

Keep at it Miles the results will be worth it.

Oh I don't doubt the edge will be brilliant but frankly taking 2-4 evenings to get to it is stupid, I don't get that long in the garage. :evil: Hence I will be sorting a grinder out and doing the first pass on that and then sorting the final sharpness on the Tormek

Don't use the black dressing stone after truing the wheel - you'll undo all the good work you've done with the diamond tool. I find the Tormek cuts pretty quickly after a fast past of the diamond truing too

Interesting point - I did find that there was more "action" after the truing however I was doing it too many times for comfort. Given your view that the grading stone stuffs the squareness how do you use it and still have the benefit of the flat, square wheel?

Miles... this is just a personal view, but I've stopped putting skews anywhere near an abraisive wheel now... its the only turning tool which I do this with, but its straight onto an oilstone for the skews with me... and they come off absolutely razor sharp

Interesting - are you using some jig or free hand? The length of bevel that the Tormek setting is putting on the skew is pretty long. This picture shows the original length and the one that the standard settings on the Tormek are putting on:

I thought I'd try the standard settings before branching out...

Thanks all

Miles

 

[Jenx]

Pic looks more like a parting tool, Miles ?

For the Skew, I go free-hand... place the cutting edge on the stone, rock it back until it contacts the trailing edge of the bevel, then shaarpen, keeping both points in touch with the stone.
The actual bevel will be concave from initial profiling, so it only hits the stone at front and back contact-points... its real easy,
Then flip over for the other bevel..

For the parting tool. I use the grinder... just with a conventional platform type jig... it is the skew you mean, yes ?

 

[big soft moose]

Pic looks more like a parting tool, Miles ?

For the Skew, I go free-hand... place the cutting edge on the stone, rock it back until it contacts the trailing edge of the bevel, then shaarpen, keeping both points in touch with the stone.
The actual bevel will be concave from initial profiling, so it only hits the stone at front and back contact-points... its real easy,
Then flip over for the other bevel..

For the parting tool. I use the grinder... just with a conventional platform type jig... it is the skew you mean, yes ?

yep i was thinking that - i'm fairly sure a skew isnt suposed to be ground to a point (that said i hate the bliddy things and dont use them at all even after 8 years of turninf - i dont do much spindle but what i do do i do with a spindle gouge and beading tool - the skew is the devils work IMO)

 

[miles_hot]

Pic looks more like a parting tool, Miles ?
For the parting tool. I use the grinder... just with a conventional platform type jig... it is the skew you mean, yes ?

[quote ="BSM"]
yep i was thinking that - i'm fairly sure a skew isnt suposed to be ground to a point
[/quote]

Yep, it's defiantly a skew - the other view is the typical skewed looking angle; this is the side view showing the different angle (maybe "bevel" is the wrong term?

Miles

 

[Jenx]

Ah.. i get you.. you're showing it 'side-on'.
Its not particulary 'even' is it ?

I'm not certain that it;d absolutely have to be ....
but mine all are.

I'm guessing that might be a good place to start with it... even-ing up the two grinds, then going from there.

 

[wizer]

It's one of those chunky skews that Richard was talking about on my skew thread.

 

[CHJ]

It's one of those chunky skews that Richard was talking about on my skew thread.

To me it registers as a thick parting tool that can be used in a similar fashion to a steep angled skew for beads etc. I don't consider the front edge to be skewed any more than would be done on a parting tool to get a clean cut-off.

 

[miles_hot]

Ah.. i get you.. you're showing it 'side-on'.
Its not particulary 'even' is it ?

I'm not certain that it;d absolutely have to be ....
but mine all are.

I'm guessing that might be a good place to start with it... even-ing up the two grinds, then going from there.

Ah.. I fear I didn't explain myself too clearly!

The shorter edge (sharper angle) is the one that it came with from Toolpost. The longer one (which is still 1mm off being finished) is the one that the Tormek settings are producing. This side has taken at lease 2 evenings so far...

Granted there is a lot of metal being removed but still it's a very frustrating thing

Miles

 

[wizer]

I was thinking that myself Chas.

These are my skews, certainly not as chunky

 

[wizer]

With the tormek, can you not just match the bevel angle, then hone? Or do you have to use their pre-set angles?

 

[miles_hot]

With the tormek, can you not just match the bevel angle, then hone? Or do you have to use their pre-set angles?

Oh, I'm positive you can match the angles etc however as I've never used a skew before I thought I'd go with the single recommended setting in the tormek book and see what that felt like...

Miles

 

[CHJ]

As the safe contact area when using a skew in planing mode is in as near the centre of the cutting edge as possible it would have to be a very thin spindle to achieve that with one of those.

 

[CHJ]

...Oh, I'm positive you can match the angles etc however as I've never used a skew before I thought I'd go with the single recommended setting in the tormek book and see what that felt like...

Miles

Miles that's not the tool Tormek are referring to when they refer to a skew.