Tormek cutting stupidly slow

[wizer]

ahh oops, so you're regrinding to the book's angle which is clearly different to what you purchased. I think you need to make a decision about what angle you want (book or factory) then grind it, note it and leave it alone Good advice above about honing on a diamond stone, makes sense.

Next bash or meetup, you need to try out a few different styles of skew (as recommended to me on the other thread)

 

[TobyB]

I agree with the other enthusiasts of the Sorby - although you can (well I can) get blued steel if you aren't thinking ... but I use it for gouges and scrapers (shaping and sharpening) ... but although I have done the skew on it, I've found the Veritas Mk II and the scary-sharp papers a much better way of getting my skew really sharp.

 

[miles_hot]

...Oh, I'm positive you can match the angles etc however as I've never used a skew before I thought I'd go with the single recommended setting in the tormek book and see what that felt like...

Miles

Miles that's not the tool Tormek are referring to when they refer to a skew.

Chas

I will post some more pictures up as I fear that you're wrong in this instance Unless of course the chap at the toolpost sold me a pup or I have got the wrong end of a sharp thing of course!

Miles

 

[big soft moose]

...Oh, I'm positive you can match the angles etc however as I've never used a skew before I thought I'd go with the single recommended setting in the tormek book and see what that felt like...

Miles

Miles that's not the tool Tormek are referring to when they refer to a skew.

Chas

I will post some more pictures up as I fear that you're wrong in this instance Unless of course the chap at the toolpost sold me a pup or I have got the wrong end of a sharp thing of course!

Miles

I think Chas may be right - what tormek are refering to as a skew is one of these - top picture http://www.thebestthings.com/newtools/sorby_turning.htm

it looks to like what you have is what toolpost refer to as a "skew variant" (which peter would have sold you as they are a lot easier for a beginer than a true skew) but which are in effect a fat parting/beading tool with a skewed end

 

[CHJ]

Miles looking at the picture you posted, it looks as if it is lying on its wide side 15mm or so (side view) and the depth to the surface it's lying on (width) is about 6mm,

To my mind a better description for the tool is that given in Richards post in Wizers skew query:

......I now mostly use a Beading and Parting tool to do my Skew chisel work and this is basically a 10mm square tool ground straight across. I find you can roll beads, slice end grain, make planing cuts, make sizing cuts and also size spigots and tennons (which is much more difficult with a skew).

EDIT: BSM got there quicker than me. :lol:

 

[miles_hot]

OK some more pics for Chas

The offending article (ignore the differing grind and the odd bevel as this is just the WIP nature of the wretched thing).


For comparison the parting tool which I bought at the same time

A little test that I did with the skew before I attempted to sharpen it:

Miles

 

[wizer]

This is not a skew in the traditional sense Miles.

 

[CHJ]

OK Miles, I was mislead by the perspective of the original picture, I guess that's much the same as my 1/2" wide skew, just a little thicker/stiffer perhaps.

After all that, it's dry grinder to shape, Tormek to finish off, just not practical to reshape that much material.

One of my skews that I finished on a Tormek is gradually having the bevel steepened as I sharpen, I found the Tormek bevel a bit too shallow for the way I hold the skew.

 

[miles_hot]

OK Miles, I was mislead by the perspective of the original picture, I guess that's much the same as my 1/2" wide skew, just a little thicker/stiffer perhaps.

After all that, it's dry grinder to shape, Tormek to finish off, just not practical to reshape that much material.

One of my skews that I finished on a Tormek is gradually having the bevel steepened as I sharpen, I found the Tormek bevel a bit too shallow for the way I hold the skew.

Yes, glad I'd been using the right tool though, even if my chosen (initial) method of shaping it is daft!

I suspect that the Tormek angle will be too shallow but it's all about trial and error really

Miles

 

[CHJ]

Miles I find the shallow 'Tormek' angle not so much of a problem for me on a wider skew used on larger diameter spindles but I find it too aggressive on my smaller skew for some reason. Probably just me and my obscure approach to turning.

 

[big soft moose]

OK some more pics for Chas

The offending article (ignore the differing grind and the odd bevel as this is just the WIP nature of the wretched thing).


Miles

As I though mate - thats a toolpost skew variant - the idea being that a thicker beading tool hybrid is easier to control than the traditional skew.

normally a beading tool is like a thick parting tool (my parting tool is 1/8 ins while my beading tool is 3/8 ) but what you have here is a wide piece of beading tool type stock grount to a skew edge

 

[Geoff J Brown]

Let me say straight away that I am the Marketing Manager for Tormek in the English speaking markets, and needless to say, I have been following the interesting discussion on the pros and cons of shaping and sharpening woodturning tools on a Tormek. I should like to address the question as to why one group of Tormek owners find great success using the Tormek System for turning tools, whereas others are disappointed.

The Tormek approach to the sharpening of woodturning tools has evolved considerably over the years, so not everyone is fully up to date.

One of the keys to successful and satisfying woodturning is, of course, to have perfectly shaped and sharpened tools. A sound principle is that you should only need to shape the tools once, but then sharpen for ever. It is indisputable that you can remove steel more quickly on a dry grinder and this is helpful when you are first shaping a tool. It is for this reason that Tormek has recently developed the BGM-100 Bench Grinder Mount to enable to woodturner to use the Tormek Jigs on a dry grinder.

Once the shape has been created, then it can be exactly replicated on the Tormek Water Cooled Sharpening System. The TTS-100 Setter ensures that the profile is exactly replicated even with the larger stone sizes associated with Tormek.

From hereon resharpening using a Tormek System takes less than 30 seconds and you remove only a fraction of the steel compared to a dry grinder, so the tools last much longer. The finer and honed surface on the tools also leave a much sharper edge, which makes the turning more gratifying.

Please forgive me if the above sounds a bit commercial, but they are the facts which I hope will enable everyone to make their own fully informed decision.

Geoff Brown

 

[Martin Brown]

In case you need more information here is a link for clarification.

Please come and see us at a show? Happy to show you more.

http://www.tormek.com/en/accessories/bgm100/index.php

Martin

 

[gidon]

Don't use the black dressing stone after truing the wheel - you'll undo all the good work you've done with the diamond tool. I find the Tormek cuts pretty quickly after a fast past of the diamond truing too

Interesting point - I did find that there was more "action" after the truing however I was doing it too many times for comfort. Given your view that the grading stone stuffs the squareness how do you use it and still have the benfit of the flat, square wheel?

Sorry - a bit late back to this - but I wasn't suggesting the black stone would effect the squareness - only that it would make the cut less aggressive - and you want the the fastest cut possible.

Cheers

Gidon

 

[miles_hot]

Don't use the black dressing stone after truing the wheel - you'll undo all the good work you've done with the diamond tool. I find the Tormek cuts pretty quickly after a fast past of the diamond truing too

Interesting point - I did find that there was more "action" after the truing however I was doing it too many times for comfort. Given your view that the grading stone stuffs the squareness how do you use it and still have the benfit of the flat, square wheel?

Sorry - a bit late back to this - but I wasn't suggesting the black stone would effect the squareness - only that it would make the cut less aggressive - and you want the the fastest cut possible.

Cheers

Gidon

Ah, many thanks for the clarification.

Miles

 

[promhandicam]

Let me say straight away that I am the Marketing Manager for Tormek in the English speaking markets . . . . Geoff Brown

Geoff, may I be the first to welcome you to this forum. I can only speak for myself, but I think it is good to have people like yourself willing to participate in forums like this. Perhaps if you posted a more general introduction in the Woodworking section you might get a few more messages of support as most 'normal' woodworkers try and avoid the lathes section.

Steve :wink:

 

[big soft moose]

you might get a few more messages of support as most 'normal' woodworkers try and avoid the lathes section.

Steve :wink:

thats only because the flat worlders fear giving into their most base desires and turning to the round side