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well as I am still stuck in Florida, and the collectors cabinet from **** is in Amsterdam. I AM hoping to be back in time , fit a new glass panal and final tweaking of said cabinet, before hurling said cab and self throught the tunnel at Caliais to Dover and hoping to arrive at TOLLS 2004 onthe morning of the 10th to squeeze said cabinet into the show.
So Brimarc stand NEAR the competiton stand will do me grand -I'll be with a GUINESS in BOTH HANDS :)
HS in a very warm sticky Arcadia.
 
OK. sounds like the hotel in the evening is a non starter, and I can't even tempt people to a pub. (I guess my 2 day stop over did reduce my time pressure).

I would like to see a few faces though. It sound as if a lunch time assembly and chat over stall-bough tea and pasty is the order of the day.

As ALF said - exactly when and where?

BugBear
 
We need to get BB to put up a pic of the saw he brought for "show and tell" to the Tools'04

Did you like it then?

Just a quick clean 'n' sharpen, I thought. Oh, and 2 years practise :)

BugBear
 
Like I said, I should have thought ahead and lined up a few more saws for you - while you're in practice...
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The cutting gauge has been in use over the weekend, btw. C'est magnifique - thank you. Ah, the pleasure of using an edge somebody else had sweated blood over sharpening; you can't beat it.
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I took a couple of pics before my camera went kaput (is it catching?
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) so you can give us the details all over again if you like.
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Cheers, Alf

gauge1.jpg
gauge2.jpg
 
The cutting gauge

I converted a marking gauge to make this; I can make most things, but boxwood thumbscrews are beyond me... anyway, car boot marking gauges are cheap and common.

The conversion was done by making a 25x5 mm strip of power hacksaw blade for a cutter. This involves simple sawing.

Hah! Have you ever tried to saw a power hacksaw blade? They're fully hardened all the way through, unlike hand hacksaw blades. I cut them with a Vitrex carbide coated rod saw, and it takes around 20 minutes. Having done this, grinding and sharpening proceeds as normal.

Holding the blade can be done with a brass wedge, which is attractive and traditional.

I opted for a simple retaining screw. I could probably have simply threaded the wooden stem, but I used a brass "slug" with a 3/16 BSF thread cut into it. The screw is a raised head type.

The neat appearance (neater than my user gauge, which I'll modify soon) is obtained by make a tiny counterbore in the top of the stem, and making the screw short enough (careful!) to go into the counterbore.

Making the rather small mortices to hold the blade and slug is just fiddly work with slender chisels.

And cutting gauges work really well. A better line (IMHO) than even a Tite-Mark, since the blade is easier to sharpen.

Charles Hayward (in his minimal tool set for a beginner) lists a cutting gauge in prefereance to a marking gauge, although everyone (of course) should have both :)

BugBear
 
BB,

I like your cutting gauge and commend the making - especially the "Making the rather small mortices to hold the blade and slug is just fiddly work with slender chisels." which I reckon must be very, very fiddly!

But,I do dispute the comment on it being better than the Titemark. The latter's blades are ultra easy to sharpen and for them as may not know, you can get a specific (larger) "wheel" for cutting as opposed to marking with the gauge. I have cut veneer with it just fine.
 
waterhead37":gyo4jpgm said:
But,I do dispute the comment on it being better than the Titemark.
<steps carefully out of the firing line and hides>
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Although actually it does cut a better line than my Titemark - but then I don't have a Titemark...

I'll get me coat.
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Cheers, Alf
 

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