tools and screws for kitchen install
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RossJarvis
Established Member
There's no straightforward answer. £400 + for a Festool C18 Plus would give you the perfect driver for the job, or the Milwaukee M12 BDDX would be a close second. Although a "hammer" drill may be necessary depending on what you're mounting to. Beyond those the cheapest hammer-drill/driver plus a handheld screwdriver would suffice. Impact drivers generally don't take any drill bits unless they are designed with a 1/4" hex base, which some do. They are not precision tools so impact drivers are not recommended for drilling into masonry, not really recommended for anything really unless you know what you're doing! HSS drills are designed for drilling into metal, not really wood although they are okay in it and definitely not masonry.
I would probably use my Bosch Rotary Hammer, my Makita BHP481 and my Festool C18. This is about £1000 worth of tools. I would also use SDS or standard Masonry Bits, Carbide hole cutters, wood hole cutters, wood bits and DeWalt or Irwin or Wera Screwdriver bits, although there are loads of other perfectly usable bits. I could also do the job with one 40 year old Black and Decker Hammer Drill and a Posidrive Screwdriver or two.
It's not the tools, it's the experience. If you've never done it before do it very carefully or get someone in who knows what they're doing.
I would probably use my Bosch Rotary Hammer, my Makita BHP481 and my Festool C18. This is about £1000 worth of tools. I would also use SDS or standard Masonry Bits, Carbide hole cutters, wood hole cutters, wood bits and DeWalt or Irwin or Wera Screwdriver bits, although there are loads of other perfectly usable bits. I could also do the job with one 40 year old Black and Decker Hammer Drill and a Posidrive Screwdriver or two.
It's not the tools, it's the experience. If you've never done it before do it very carefully or get someone in who knows what they're doing.
Mark A
Established Member
What tools do you have already?
Do you know what the kitchen walls are made from?
Do you know what the kitchen walls are made from?
Phil Pascoe
Established Member
I think I'd be very wary of attempting the job if I had ask what tools were necessary.
A decently long spirit level and a framing square would be good or a laser level if you're feeling flush. I got a second hand one off the bay and it's been invaluable for loads of jobs.
A selection of packers and strips of 2x1 or similar for supporting the back of work tops where they're not on cabinets.
Pound shop rolls of masking tape for applying silicon, a tidy finish makes a lot of difference to a job.
As Ross says, there's no definitive answer really but you tube is your friend here, if you've got a decent pair of hands then anything is within your grasp these days.
A selection of packers and strips of 2x1 or similar for supporting the back of work tops where they're not on cabinets.
Pound shop rolls of masking tape for applying silicon, a tidy finish makes a lot of difference to a job.
As Ross says, there's no definitive answer really but you tube is your friend here, if you've got a decent pair of hands then anything is within your grasp these days.
sickasapike
Established Member
Use the most obscure and untraceable screw heads you can find, and leave a note taped under the worktop saying you'll post the required 11-pointed driver bit for 50 quid 
Eric The Viking
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As Phil says, if you are asking this question, you may find a kitchen refit very challenging.
There is much more to it than just fitting cupboards - all the plumbing (water and gas probably), and electrics that must be right because it's a place where water and electricity come rather too close to each other! I know one very good woodworker on here who is getting professionals in to do his own kitchen, even though he has done several himself in the past. And I would do the same if I could.
OK, that said, if you are quick to learn, I'd also say, "go for it!". We learn by doing, and if you are young and fit, it will be a great learning experience for you.
But the biggest single "tool" you need is VERY careful planning. You will need to check all the services (water, air extraction, gas and electricity, in order of most awkward first), that you know exactly where they come into the room, and where you will be moving them to, and what size pipes are, etc. Don't guess - measure and test everything you can, especially in old properties, where the copper pipes might not be metric sizes! You also need to know how strong your walls and floor are (for fixing cupboards and floor units, and if you are buying pack-flat, roughly where the legs will stand. If you cannot get good, detailed drawings (with measurements on them!) from the kitchen supplier, that is a very good argument for buying from someone else!
If you will live in the house at the same time, you need a plan for how you will manage without a kitchen while it is being done. And you will need space for all the kitchen crockery, movable furniture and stuff, and space to keep the new kitchen parts so you're not falling over them while you try to install them. And if it's a flat that is NOT on the ground floor, you need to be extra careful of work under the floor, and avoid water leaks at all costs - have a "leak management kit" ready at all times (bucket, sponges and lots of old towels), as you may "discover" piping you don't especially like! Know where the water and gas stop-taps are (and make sure they work), before you start!
You cannot nowadays DIY the whole thing, as some parts of the work require a professional (gas and electricity). So you need a proper plan, of what you intend to do, in what order, and when you need those trades on-site.
You may have herd the terms "first fix" and "second fix". In the first one you're getting services to roughly where they need to be, in the second you're doing the actual connecting up and finishing off neatly. So your specialists will probably need to visit at least twice.
You also need to check your layout with them, as there are rules, for example how close electric fittings can be to a sink, and about extraction for a hob - you need to make sure your layout is legal and do-able. My strong recommendation nowadays would be to use a 3D modelling tool like SketchUp to do a virtual refit first. It can be as accurate as you want, and it's a very good way to check issues like plumbing and other services will actually work, before you start with the crowbars, etc., and rip the old one out. It's free, and there are lots of tutorials on-line.
Your other major "tool" is a second, strong pair of hands. There are a number of essential tasks that you really can't easily do single-handed - fitting big worktops and hanging wall cupboards (much easier with two people, usually) spring to mind. Someone who doesn't mind being yelled at in a crisis (we all do it!), and is very sensible...
You also need a lot of dust sheets and soft things to cover fragile things like tiling and work surfaces once they're in place, while you work alongside or over them. If the floor will be tiled first, I'd put 9mm ply on top as a minimum protection, until the rest is done - be very careful of point loads punching down through even then.
Regarding actual tools, which parts of the fit are you going to do yourself, how much adjustment will you expect to do, to things like carcases, etc., and are there good hire shops near you? The bigger and more specialist tools (like heavy drills and worktop cutting jigs) can be hired.
You can probably guess that a lot of the above comes from hard lessons learned! I've since found a few really good books on kitchens, from a woodworker's perspective, but if you browse Amazon don't forget that the USA does it quite differently from here (especially electrics and water stuff), so what you read isn't always applicable. Lots on YouTube too, I daresay.
HTH, E.
(trying to be realistic, not a wet blanket!)
There is much more to it than just fitting cupboards - all the plumbing (water and gas probably), and electrics that must be right because it's a place where water and electricity come rather too close to each other! I know one very good woodworker on here who is getting professionals in to do his own kitchen, even though he has done several himself in the past. And I would do the same if I could.
OK, that said, if you are quick to learn, I'd also say, "go for it!". We learn by doing, and if you are young and fit, it will be a great learning experience for you.
But the biggest single "tool" you need is VERY careful planning. You will need to check all the services (water, air extraction, gas and electricity, in order of most awkward first), that you know exactly where they come into the room, and where you will be moving them to, and what size pipes are, etc. Don't guess - measure and test everything you can, especially in old properties, where the copper pipes might not be metric sizes! You also need to know how strong your walls and floor are (for fixing cupboards and floor units, and if you are buying pack-flat, roughly where the legs will stand. If you cannot get good, detailed drawings (with measurements on them!) from the kitchen supplier, that is a very good argument for buying from someone else!
If you will live in the house at the same time, you need a plan for how you will manage without a kitchen while it is being done. And you will need space for all the kitchen crockery, movable furniture and stuff, and space to keep the new kitchen parts so you're not falling over them while you try to install them. And if it's a flat that is NOT on the ground floor, you need to be extra careful of work under the floor, and avoid water leaks at all costs - have a "leak management kit" ready at all times (bucket, sponges and lots of old towels), as you may "discover" piping you don't especially like! Know where the water and gas stop-taps are (and make sure they work), before you start!
You cannot nowadays DIY the whole thing, as some parts of the work require a professional (gas and electricity). So you need a proper plan, of what you intend to do, in what order, and when you need those trades on-site.
You may have herd the terms "first fix" and "second fix". In the first one you're getting services to roughly where they need to be, in the second you're doing the actual connecting up and finishing off neatly. So your specialists will probably need to visit at least twice.
You also need to check your layout with them, as there are rules, for example how close electric fittings can be to a sink, and about extraction for a hob - you need to make sure your layout is legal and do-able. My strong recommendation nowadays would be to use a 3D modelling tool like SketchUp to do a virtual refit first. It can be as accurate as you want, and it's a very good way to check issues like plumbing and other services will actually work, before you start with the crowbars, etc., and rip the old one out. It's free, and there are lots of tutorials on-line.
Your other major "tool" is a second, strong pair of hands. There are a number of essential tasks that you really can't easily do single-handed - fitting big worktops and hanging wall cupboards (much easier with two people, usually) spring to mind. Someone who doesn't mind being yelled at in a crisis (we all do it!), and is very sensible...
You also need a lot of dust sheets and soft things to cover fragile things like tiling and work surfaces once they're in place, while you work alongside or over them. If the floor will be tiled first, I'd put 9mm ply on top as a minimum protection, until the rest is done - be very careful of point loads punching down through even then.
Regarding actual tools, which parts of the fit are you going to do yourself, how much adjustment will you expect to do, to things like carcases, etc., and are there good hire shops near you? The bigger and more specialist tools (like heavy drills and worktop cutting jigs) can be hired.
You can probably guess that a lot of the above comes from hard lessons learned! I've since found a few really good books on kitchens, from a woodworker's perspective, but if you browse Amazon don't forget that the USA does it quite differently from here (especially electrics and water stuff), so what you read isn't always applicable. Lots on YouTube too, I daresay.
HTH, E.
(trying to be realistic, not a wet blanket!)
perhaps this is stating the obvious, but it is possible to do a fair amount of work yourself with minimal experience if your kitchen design is simple and are prepared to pay for the bits that require special skills.
For me this involved:
I used corian worktops (not cheap!) but this meant that although you need dimensions for quotes, the supplier will come and make templates. The only thing you have to do is screw it to the cabinets when it is made.
I paid someone to lay the tiles on the floor and plumb in the sink
Point of all this being that it is possible to do a fair amount of the work with minimal skills, a few screw drivers and a circular saw so long as you keep the design simple and pay for the tricky bits.
For me this involved:
- doing the design (Sketch up)
generally labouring (preparing floors and walls)
ordering all the stuff
fitting the cabinets (I did not use any wall mounted cupboards so this was very straight forward)
specifying electric, water and gas cooker locations (obviously paid someone to do the connections)
fitting doors and handles
cutting various trims and fitting
fitting a couple of shelves
fitting internal fridge freezer, dishwasher, extractor etc
making a template for glass splashback and fitting the end result
painting
I used corian worktops (not cheap!) but this meant that although you need dimensions for quotes, the supplier will come and make templates. The only thing you have to do is screw it to the cabinets when it is made.
I paid someone to lay the tiles on the floor and plumb in the sink
Point of all this being that it is possible to do a fair amount of the work with minimal skills, a few screw drivers and a circular saw so long as you keep the design simple and pay for the tricky bits.
Lons
Established Member
Hmm... looking at previous posts it suggests limited knowledge so maybe few skills but no way to tell that from the Op question so perhaps a bit more information would help.
I would echo some of the others and say if you need to ask that then maybe you need to sub out some of the work. It is of course a great reason / excuse for investing in new tools. :wink:
I fitted many many bespoke and off the shelf kitchens over the years as part of my business and they're all sightly different. Whilst you can get away with a relatively small list of hand and power tools I'd say without knowing exactly what you're fitting and the structure of the building the answer is "how long is a piece of string?". My list of the tools I used would be very long.
Don't forget that kitchens also include plumbing and electrics and there are regulations covering electrics in particular.
cheers
Bob
I would echo some of the others and say if you need to ask that then maybe you need to sub out some of the work. It is of course a great reason / excuse for investing in new tools. :wink:
I fitted many many bespoke and off the shelf kitchens over the years as part of my business and they're all sightly different. Whilst you can get away with a relatively small list of hand and power tools I'd say without knowing exactly what you're fitting and the structure of the building the answer is "how long is a piece of string?". My list of the tools I used would be very long.
Don't forget that kitchens also include plumbing and electrics and there are regulations covering electrics in particular.
cheers
Bob
phil.p":3auz4wqn said:
Sorry, i didnt explain myself more in the OP. I have vast experience in construction. Its just i havent installed a full kitchen in a decade. Ive repaired them, installed base units and worktops. I would have a wide selection of tools however i was just throwing this thread out there for a check-list for all the screw types,L brackets and tools i'll need just incase i forget something. You see, my holiday home is 40mins away from the nearest town and even then, that town wouldnt have much of a choice if im stuck for something. Ive prepped and tiled the floor in the summer and also the house has all plumbing, electrics and heating pipes ready for the kitchen install. During the xmass holidays i have a few days to get this installed before i head away on a well deserved sunny break and want to get away without it fully completed.
Lons
Established Member
cult":2abdzjlq said:
Ah ok, should have no problems fittting then, the worktops if they need joining will be your biggest challenge as quite difficult to get a first class join without a 1/2" router and jig imo although can do it by hand. You'll need w/top join bolts in that case if using laminate or wood tops, I always use biscuits as well.
if it's an off the shelf kitchen then all the bits and most fixings will be included except large screws and wallplugs.
Contact adhesive for edging and an iron if pre glued is handy as are a selection of packers then it's just the usual tools and misc stuff, much of which has already been mentioned.
cheers
Bob
PS: hope the heating is working in your holiday home over Christmas.
Lons":2jzzkob1 said:cult":2jzzkob1 said:
Ah ok, should have no problems fittting then, the worktops if they need joining will be your biggest challenge as quite difficult to get a first class join without a 1/2" router and jig imo although can do it by hand. You'll need w/top join bolts in that case if using laminate or wood tops, I always use biscuits as well.
if it's an off the shelf kitchen then all the bits and most fixings will be included except large screws and wallplugs.
Contact adhesive for edging and an iron if pre glued is handy as are a selection of packers then it's just the usual tools and misc stuff, much of which has already been mentioned.
cheers
Bob
PS: hope the heating is working in your holiday home over Christmas.
I have a trend jig 900 now and have a work mate that will be lending me the 1/2inch router. Have the bits already for the router.
woodywoodwood
Established Member
Forgive me if I am teaching my grandmother how to suck eggs etc, but I have fitted plenty of worktops, and it can be fiddly especially if the walls are not square, or lumpy. Take your time and do some practice cuts on some scrap mdf or something similar.
Hope this helps
Www
Hope this helps
Www
