Tool Auction at Stowmarket

[MikeW]

Yep, but the LN versions do look to overcome the cheaper clones' failings. Better made for sure. But deeper v-groove. Pretty necessary for the wider blades [I filed my Eclipse a little wider]. The larger knurled knob and finer pitched bolt may well make it easier to tighten--something the clones around here suffer from.

Seeing how they are not released yet, take the price with a grain of salt. Who knows what the final price will be. But people will pay what the page shows, so...

Take care, Mike
who runs mostly guideless...

 

[David C]

Mike where did you find this on the site please?

The concept is very simple but effective. All plane blades (that fit), regardless of thickness are registered from the flat side.
Therefore for any desired angle, projection will be the same, for blades of different thickness.

Exactly the same principle as the chisel slot on the Eclipse type.

David Charlesworth

 

[MikeW]

Mike where did you find this on the site please?

The concept is very simple but effective. All plane blades (that fit), regardless of thickness are registered from the flat side.
Therefore for any desired angle, projection will be the same, for blades of different thickness.

Exactly the same principle as the chisel slot on the Eclipse type.

David Charlesworth

Hi DC,

There is no direct link. Just as there isn't yet to the shaving horse and the scissors and ... :lol:

I do like what appear to be advancements over my Eclipse and its clones. Not that one may need such improvements per se. But if it works better as far as clamping strength over some of the clones, I'll buy it at their final pricing--whatever it is [well, as long as it is not over $50 <g>].

I have had such variability in the clone's ability to clamp a chisel well, that at classes I almost feel I have to give a disclaimer when I talk about them. They are cost effective, though.

Take care, Mike

 

[MarcW]

There is no direct link. Just as there isn't yet to the shaving horse and the scissors and ... :lol:

I do like what appear to be advancements over my Eclipse and its clones. Not that one may need such improvements per se. But if it works better as far as clamping strength over some of the clones, I'll buy it at their final pricing--whatever it is [well, as long as it is not over $50 <g>].

I have had such variability in the clone's ability to clamp a chisel well, that at classes I almost feel I have to give a disclaimer when I talk about them. They are cost effective, though.

Take care, Mike

Hi all,

At the moment there isn't any link at all. Someone must have cut with those scissors... :lol: BTW Mike, what are those scissors for?

After looking at David's dvd on sharpening I got back from freehand sharpening to the eclipse guide. I had some troubles with not square edges. I find it the most simple and useful honing guide. Well I only have to compare to the Veritas MKI and the Kell for small and short blades. I just wanted to purchase the MKII the moment I remembered having already the eclipse guide. As it is this useful, Tom had the good idea to make a better one. Hopefully he will engrave edge to guide distances for several angles. [-o< This will avoid having another sheet of paper lost somewhere in the shop finding it merely when not needed. ](*,)

Regards and have fun in the shop.

PS:
I'm out for shopping this afternoon. Adore walking in this large warehouse with over 60 different woods.

 

[bugbear]

I do like what appear to be advancements over my Eclipse and its clones. Not that one may need such improvements per se. But if it works better as far as clamping strength over some of the clones, I'll buy it at their final pricing--whatever it is [well, as long as it is not over $50 <g>].

I have had such variability in the clone's ability to clamp a chisel well, that at classes I almost feel I have to give a disclaimer when I talk about them. They are cost effective, though.

Take care, Mike

I've seen complaints about the side-clampers wearing a groove in the stone, and the clamping not being powerful enough.

IMHO, both problem are caused by the user relying too much on the tool to FORCE him/her to sharpen in the correct way, and not using the tool AS A GUIDE.

Trust me, when you're using a Marples #7418 you learn a delicate touch.

The clamping force is pitiful...

http://www.wdynamic.com/galoots/4images ... ge_id=4279
http://www.cornishworkshop.co.uk/album/ ... um=6&pos=1

BugBear

 

[bugbear]

I just visited Woodcentral to check on the latest developments and the thread has now been deleted.

No fair! I missed it! :twisted:

BugBear

 

[bugbear]

Hopefully he will engrave edge to guide distances for several angles. [-o< This will avoid having another sheet of paper lost somewhere in the shop finding it merely when not needed. ](*,)

I STRONGLY recommend anyone with a classic side-clamper (Eclipse #36 or clones) to make one of these;

http://www.wdynamic.com/galoots/4images ... ge_id=3508

They not only save you having to remember the distances, they automatically give VERY consistent angles from one sharpening to the next; this is very advantageous in minimising the amount of metal to be removed, and thus maximising sharpening speed.

BugBear

 

[Paul Chapman]

I STRONGLY recommend anyone with a classic side-clamper (Eclipse #36 or clones) to make one of these;

http://www.wdynamic.com/galoots/4images ... ge_id=3508

They not only save you having to remember the distances, they automatically give VERY consistent angles from one sharpening to the next; this is very advantageous in minimising the amount of metal to be removed, and thus maximising sharpening speed.

I second that. I pinched Bugbear's idea - it really saves time and, as he says, results in consistency. Excellent idea, Bugbear, thanks :wink:

Paul

 

[Mirboo]

Yep, I'll third that. I made one after seeing the one described in Leonard Lee's book "The Complete Guide to Sharpening".

 

[Paul Chapman]

[
I STRONGLY recommend anyone with a classic side-clamper (Eclipse #36 or clones) to make one of these;

http://www.wdynamic.com/galoots/4images ... ge_id=3508

I find you can also use it quite successfully with the Veritas Mk 1 honing guide, which I use for blades which cannot be clamped on the side (for example Record 778 blades) :wink:

Paul

 

[Chris Knight]

Also, if you make a thin (3mm) slip of wood then you can use it as a spacer for a secondary bevel.

 

[bugbear]

I second that. I pinched Bugbear's idea - it really saves time and, as he says, results in consistency. Excellent idea, Bugbear, thanks :wink:

Paul

Just to be clear, while I have attempted to popularise the idea, I've never claimed I invented it - 'cause I didn't.

BugBear

 

[dedee]

With reference to the jig that Bugbear popularises, with a larger base plate and the stops not quite in the centre one could set the primary angle from one side and a secondary angle from the other?


Andy

 

[Paul Chapman]

I second that. I pinched Bugbear's idea - it really saves time and, as he says, results in consistency. Excellent idea, Bugbear, thanks :wink:

Paul

Just to be clear, while I have attempted to popularise the idea, I've never claimed I invented it - 'cause I didn't.

Well BugBear, your attempts to popularise the idea are working, because that's how I saw it. Thanks again

Paul

 

[David C]

Bugbear,

You may have noticed the setting aid which Deneb had at the last APTC show.

Same principle as 'your's' but set out round a larger square of plywood. This gave room for some more variations of honing angle, for different tools and uses. i.e. 45 degrees for scraper plane blades etc. The thin (approx 3 mm) shim was attached with a boot lace or string and allows for the 2 degree lift when moving to the polishing stone, which is the technique I favour.

Some clever person might be able to find a drawing?

best wishes,
David

 

[MikeW]

...
Some clever person might be able to find a drawing?

:lol: :lol: :lol:

 

[bugbear]

Bugbear,

You may have noticed the setting aid which Deneb had at the last APTC show.

Same principle as 'your's' but set out round a larger square of plywood.

In a workshop as tiny as mine, finding room for a bigger gadget can be difficult.

http://www.geocities.com/plybench/tour.html#photo_tech

Is a shot of the workshop taken from outside the workshop (the benchtop is 5' x 2' for scale)

BugBear

 

[DaveL]

In a workshop as tiny as mine, finding room for a bigger gadget can be difficult.

You could make lots more space in there, just get rid of that three legged bit of kit, not sure what sort of woodworking tool it is anyway, then you would have room for a 6" square of ply. :roll: :wink:

 

[Alf]

You could achieve the same with a single stop at the furthest required point and assorted spacers to shorten the distance for higher angles, couldn't you? But maybe a keychain of spacers would overload the more bijou workshop too...

Cheers, Alf

 

[woodbloke]

Never thought to make such a simple device. I've always used a rule to set the distance from the eclipse jig (DC modified) to the blade edge which is a bit hit and missy to say the least...so will now have to go out to the 'shop and find a couple of bits of ply - Rob