Tongue and groove setup

[JesseM]

Jake,
Another thought on the flatness of the skates. Check the rods, they can be twisted and can lift one skate off a little bit, depends on how they're turned.

Thanks Marc, I hadn't even thought of that. Yet another thing to check for.

Jake, I have used a dremel tool and cutup some hardened steel myself. I can't really bake steel in my current abode. Though I would like to. :twisted:

 

[Anonymous]

Thanks Paul and Mark..... I'm glad you like the links.

Jesse, I did this on the weekend. Took some photos as I went. I was thinking they're a nice alternative to cutting your regular T&G joints. Its a spline joint. Saves on having to prepare that matching cutter to cut the tongue.


http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d74/apricotripper/1g.jpg
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d74/apricotripper/2g.jpg

Its going to be a top for a metal drafting table I found and have cleaned up. Its just regular pine that used to be old bed slats. Bit of a scavanger I am. The splines is just hardwood ripped out of an old fence post I found on the table saw . I'm trying to be clever by having contrasting colours uno. :lol:

I did these with a record 44, but I don't see any reason why you can't do them with your Sargent, once you get it all tuned up.

All you need do, is setup a plough blade, everything parallel and that blade sharp of course, and keep that fence referencing the same side of the table top for each board. uno, to ensure accuracy. And groove every board both sides.

Plough plane cuts along an edge are very stable and quick, and shouldn't take long. The goal is to, have all the boards grooved to depth before that blade bluntens. At the very least ensure the grooves for any particular joint is complete before removing that blade, cause removing the blade risks inaccuracys that occur when resetting it...ie. it can be fiddly trying to get a blade sitting exactly as it was before.......if you know what I mean (? I'm not sure if I was clear enough) ....

You probably know already, but try and get the very ends of the joint tight, so it looks neat and gapless. Actually its probably a good idea to have the splines a little loose between the ends so they bind up well when you add glue etc.....as long as the ends look tight.

Anyway, there you go.....an alternative

[/url]

 

[JesseM]

Plough plane cuts along an edge are very stable and quick, and shouldn't take long. The goal is to, have all the boards grooved to depth before that blade bluntens. At the very least ensure the grooves for any particular joint is complete before removing that blade, cause removing the blade risks inaccuracys that occur when resetting it...ie. it can be fiddly trying to get a blade sitting exactly as it was before.......if you know what I mean (? I'm not sure if I was clear enough) ....
Anyway, there you go.....an alternative

Yeah I know what you mean about the setting. I've been having a difficult time as it is getting the tongue centered. I will try the spline. It seems easy enough and I can practice my technique. Actually I know about these from some hardware floors I put in. I always referred to them as gender benders. Thanks!

 

[Paul Chapman]

And a spline (or loose tongue) joint like that is much better and stronger than T&G if the boards are to be glued together :wink:

Paul

 

[Clinton1]

You may like to download the Record 405 manual, which is good as it also has a section on "how to use" the plane.
http://www.marquis-kyle.com.au/405.pdf

Sectin 12 points out the different way of using a combination plane, "commence at the end of the cut, and work backwards".
Basically you creat a ramp, with the cut deepest at the end of the board that is furtherest away. Each cut is started slightly closer to you.
this might be the reason that your plane is "biting at the end and not at the beginning". Its opposite to the way that you would use a bench plane.

 

[Alf]

"commence at the end of the cut, and work backwards".

An important point, easily overlooked if you're in the habit of skimming the instructions. Not that anyone round here does that...

Cheers, Alf

 

[Anonymous]

I'm really not trying to step on anyones toes, whatsoever.....thats the last thing I want to do...It just its never made sense to me......I've heard that technique from many who sound like they know what their talking about......uno, planing back to front.....but I've found it to make no difference. :? I've tried that method.....but I still don't understand why its considered important.

I just push my fenced plane like any other. ie. each pass covering the entire length of the board....and no problems ever.

And it makes sense too doesn't it ? Why should it be different ?

 

[Alf]

I just push my fenced plane like any other. ie. each pass covering the entire length of the board....and no problems ever.

There's always one... :roll: :lol:

If it ain't broke for you, Jake, then no reason to fix it. The majority of us mere mortals find it does though. :wink:

Cheers, Alf

 

[MikeW]

...I just push my fenced plane like any other. ie. each pass covering the entire length of the board....and no problems ever.

And it makes sense too doesn't it ? Why should it be different ?

Hi Jake,

Like Alf said, whatever works. For myself, I find if the plow is set for a rank cut, it is easier to begin at the far end and work to the near end. Same goes with a profiled plane. This is especially true with woods such as Oak and Ash, Cherry and Poplar.

If the wood is really hard and the planes are set for a lighter cut, I typically do start at the near end.

Take care, Mike

 

[MarcW]

Just a thought,

Because Jake, you're the man of the big fences :mrgreen: that allow to have steady pressure and guidance to the work piece, you don't need to begin at the far end. I think beginning there gives a sort of fence or guidance to a normal fenced plane. Think of the wobbling of a #45 when planing the first shavings and later on when you're in the groove. This sideway movement disappears with the depth of the groove. Disposing of a fence a little bit longer so it makes contact before the skates actually touch the work piece, makes straight grooves like rails.

Ok, that's my 2c, Marc

 

[bugbear]

Stanley used to do single-edged ones that adjusted up and down, at least on some models, which actually aren't bad. I assume the cost of machining the serrations in the skate and the edge of the cutter made them uneconomic so they went the way of other good ideas.

They came back in the "dog dung for a handle" 13-050, and the "horrible handle" Record #045c. (both numbers from memory)

i.e. the much derided latest combo planes that existed.

BugBear

 

[Alf]

Did they really? Well, well, might have to get me one of them after all... (like I wasn't already looking for cheap examples of same :-$ 8-[ )

Cheers, Alf

 

[bugbear]

They came back in the "dog **** for a handle" 13-050, and the "horrible handle" Record #045c. (both numbers from memory)

Yurgle! I didn't know this forum had a profanity filter.

BugBear

 

[Alf]

They came back in the "dog **** for a handle" 13-050, and the "horrible handle" Record #045c. (both numbers from memory)

Yurgle! I didn't know this forum had a profanity filter.

Ooo, neither did I. Thought you must have read the forum rules.

Silly me. :wink: :lol:

Cheers, Alf

 

[Anonymous]

Just a thought,

Because Jake, you're the man of the big fences :mrgreen: that allow to have steady pressure and guidance to the work piece, you don't need to begin at the far end. I think beginning there gives a sort of fence or guidance to a normal fenced plane. Think of the wobbling of a #45 when planing the first shavings and later on when you're in the groove. This sideway movement disappears with the depth of the groove. Disposing of a fence a little bit longer so it makes contact before the skates actually touch the work piece, makes straight grooves like rails.

Ok, that's my 2c, Marc

I think your right Marc.....spose its nice to know why.

yep......when starting near the end, all of the fence and sole (skate whatever) is on the board than starting right at the beginning edge, where only the nose parts are on........yeh, so it does make sense (don't listen to me) .

And a good confortable starts important....so that your cruising comfortably when you finally do get the groove or whatever approaching the start of the board, where your starting at the beginning of the board a lot....

AAAAGH forget it ! ....I'm confusing myself. I shouldn't be raving about nothing anyway ....who cares how its done, as long as it works eh.

ps. What does that 'Razz' emoticon mean ?.....when do I use that ?....do I put that in when I'm teasing someone ? poking fun sort of thing ?

 

[Paul Chapman]

Just a thought,

Because Jake, you're the man of the big fences :mrgreen: that allow to have steady pressure and guidance to the work piece, you don't need to begin at the far end. I think beginning there gives a sort of fence or guidance to a normal fenced plane. Think of the wobbling of a #45 when planing the first shavings and later on when you're in the groove. This sideway movement disappears with the depth of the groove. Disposing of a fence a little bit longer so it makes contact before the skates actually touch the work piece, makes straight grooves like rails.

Ok, that's my 2c, Marc

I think your right Marc.....spose its nice to know why.

I agree, Marc might be on to something. On some of my tools (routers, planes, hand-held circular saw) when making wooden faces for the fences, I've often made two sets, one deep and one shallow. Whenever possible, I use the deep ones because it significantly increases the stability of the whole set up. Not tried it yet with my multiplanes, but I need to make a new wooden face for the fence of my #405 so I will make a deeper and longer one and see what it's like. Thanks for the tip, Marc :wink:

Paul

 

[MarcW]

...AAAAGH forget it ! ....I'm confusing myself. I shouldn't be raving about nothing anyway ....who cares how its done, as long as it works eh.

ps. What does that 'Razz' emoticon mean ?.....when do I use that ?....do I put that in when I'm teasing someone ? poking fun sort of thing ?

Yes Jake,

As long as it works. Just sometimes it's kind a fun to find out why it doesn't. Am I a little warped at this point?

This thought came to me, because I normally reach instinctively first for the #45 whenever possible before I go for a wooden similar plane. Despite the tedious process of setting up this excellent idea of this big fence makes for a proper groove. \/

The emoticon, don't know, but would be glad too to understand its use. Maybe someone could enlighten us here. :?: This way I'd follow 51% of what's written here. :lol:

Regards,

Marc

p.s.: I'm looking for a small combo since I read your posts in the australian forum. Any advice for a specific model? I thought of a Record #43.

 

[Alf]

As far as goes, wind your sense of humour down to about the level of a four year old and you'll probably know when to use it. :wink:

Cheers, Alf

 

[Clinton1]

with those big fences you've got to be careful you don't split your pants getting over them!

How's that? :roll:

 

[Anonymous]

with those big fences you've got to be careful you don't split your pants getting over them!

How's that? :roll:

:lol: Not bad ! :lol: :shock: I mean, How Imature Clinton !

What you reakon Alice ? ..... are we using this thing -> ....correctly ? <- I'm not really embarrised. Just pretending.