To froe or not to froe

[Noggsy]

I have wanted an froe for ages, but haven't been able to justify new prices. So when Roger advertised the axe heads recently, I jumped at what looked like an froe with a straight handle. They all arrived today (thanks Roger) and I'm delighted.

Now, the froe has the handle at 90 degrees to where it would ideally be. So my question is, do I try and bend it or do I handle it as it is and just use the force of twisting to split wood? Obviously, the forces would be less if I just handled it compared to the usual arrangement with a handle straight through an eye, but will it still do the job? The dimensions at the join to the blade are about 12mm by 6mm.

If it is worth bending, how hot and how best to do it? Any thoughts will be appreciated.




Edited as I had written adze instead of froe.

 

[Jacob]

It's not an adze, or anything like one. I suppose it's a "froe" i.e intended to be hit along the back. Too flimsy a tang to be any sort of cleaver. I'd leave it as it is.

 

[bugbear]

I have wanted an adze for ages, but haven't been able to justify new prices. So when Roger advertised the axe heads recently, I jumped at what looked like an adze with a straight handle. They all arrived today (thanks Roger) and I'm delighted.

Now, the adze has the handle at 90 degrees to where it would ideally be. So my question is, do I try and bend it or do I handle it as it is and just use the force of twisting to split wood? Obviously, the forces would be less if I just handled it compared to the usual arrangement with a handle straight through an eye, but will it still do the job? The dimensions at the join to the blade are about 12mm by 6mm.

If it is worth bending, how hot and how best to do it? Any thoughts will be appreciated.

I think what you have there it's what's described in catalogues as a "stick chopper", a cheap and basic tool for householders to split kindling with.

Googling shows that (surprisingly to me) they're still made:

http://www.woodlandcraftsupplies.co.uk/ ... cts_id=132

BugBear

 

[Noggsy]

Jacob, of course you're right and I meant froe, not adze.

One of the side-effects of a baby daughter is the inability to tell one word from another (hammer)

 

[xy mosian]

Sorry I don't recognise that as a Froe. Most that I have seen, in the flesh and in image, have a large eye instead of a tang. This will be stronger than a tang, as is needed to withstand tremendous twisting forces.
https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=image ... 80&bih=902
xy

 

[Woodchips2]

A friend of mine used to make froes out of old car leaf springs. The eye for the handle was already made and he just sharpened a rough edge and away to go. It didn't need to be very sharp because it was used on green timber and the action is about controlled splitting along the grain with the wood held in a cleaving brake (example here https://www.bodgers.org.uk/BB/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=749 if you scroll down the page). A very satisfying tool to use and one they teach you on a green woodworking course.

Regards Keith

 

[Trafalgar]

I have wanted an froe for ages, but haven't been able to justify new prices. So when Roger advertised the axe heads recently, I jumped at what looked like an froe with a straight handle. They all arrived today (thanks Roger) and I'm delighted.

Now, the froe has the handle at 90 degrees to where it would ideally be. So my question is, do I try and bend it or do I handle it as it is and just use the force of twisting to split wood? Obviously, the forces would be less if I just handled it compared to the usual arrangement with a handle straight through an eye, but will it still do the job? The dimensions at the join to the blade are about 12mm by 6mm.

If it is worth bending, how hot and how best to do it? Any thoughts will be appreciated.




Edited as I had written adze instead of froe.

I think it's nobler in the mind to suffer; slings and arrows and all that jazz. Shakespeare always has the answer.

 

[xy mosian]

Just remembered. Apparently the word Froe is derived from the old word Fromard, as in the opposite of Toward, it turns up in 'to and froe'.
Strange what sticks isn't it?
xy

 

[Noggsy]

Cheers Keith, I'll think about that.

CStanford - you can't beat the bard.

'To and froe'...who knew?

 

[Sheffield Tony]

A friend of mine used to make froes out of old car leaf springs.

It is becoming a problem that cars no longer have leaf springs !
My froe is made from an agricultural flail blade. It's a wear resisting boron steel. No particular heat treatment, butt it holds an adequate edge.

 

[swb58]

I'd call that a block billhook (not just because of where it's pictured).

 

[boggy]

Froes are available from Axminster, priced about £50.

 

[matthewwh]

It looks like the stick tang was welded on, if you can nip that off and get a bit of pipe welded on in its place, you're in business!

Might want to start off with a smaller log though...

 

[Noggsy]

Hmmm Matt, that sounds like a good idea, thanks, I'll have a think.

 

[woodfarmer]

Just seen this thread. The tang is welded on and probably too weak. The favourite steel is Mercedes van or lorry springs

I am too old for such things and use an electric fro these days.

 

[Noggsy]

Ok, you've all convinced me, straight handle it is on this one and then a trip to a scrapyard to try and get a spring - thanks for your ideas. Are the springs easy enough to detach?

 

[boggy]

Froes are also available from Dictum (www.more-than-tools.de) at about €90 called 'splitting knife'.
It might be worth posting on www.bodgers.org as someone might be selling one.

 

[AndyT]

Also, Bristol Design have a line of newly made froes as part of their green woodwork tools. I'll check the price when I'm next in there.

 

[matthewwh]

Apparently in Africa Land Cruiser leaf springs are preferred to Landrover ones for edge tool making.

Before Dodge weighs in, this is probably because the Landrover ones are all still busy in their original function.

If it starts getting near the £40 mark in terms of time and effort, it might be worth considering one of Ray's:



http://www.workshopheaven.com/tools/Froes.html

 

[Sheffield Tony]

For what it's worth, a recent thread on the bodgers forum discussed froes, and a contributer (Gavin) who has several preferred the Gransfors Bruk froe to either the Ray Iles or Bristol design ones.

A lot depends on what you want to do. If you want to just knock it into a short log of ash to split itt any will do. If you wamt to rive long bits to make hurdles or a Mike Abbot style laddernack chair, you might want a good one. A forged eye rather than a welded on bit of tube is good, and the thickness and profile help to steer a split down a long piece.

BTW, what happens to all the old froes ? Never seem to see them on eBay ?