Tips & Tricks
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Robbo3
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To blow out the shavings from a hollow form whilst keeping your eyes & nose out of the line of fire use a few inches of flexible tube which fits tightly over some solid tube.
Or make an organ blower. Basically a large bicycle pump used to blow the dust out of organ pipes in the days before electricity. Very handy for cleaning down the lathe if you haven't got a compressor. I've made several for other wood turners.
The body is 63mm rainwater down pipe with piston, piston rod, handle & end caps turned on the lathe.
The handle endcap has four entry holes for air.
The piston seal is a piece of leather. It has to have a one way valve to allow it to seal on the push stroke but allow air through on the return. It consists of a flap cut in the leather to cover a hole in the piston.
The organ blower was a tip printed in the Good Wood Working magazine (July 1994)
Or make an organ blower. Basically a large bicycle pump used to blow the dust out of organ pipes in the days before electricity. Very handy for cleaning down the lathe if you haven't got a compressor. I've made several for other wood turners.
The body is 63mm rainwater down pipe with piston, piston rod, handle & end caps turned on the lathe.
The handle endcap has four entry holes for air.
The piston seal is a piece of leather. It has to have a one way valve to allow it to seal on the push stroke but allow air through on the return. It consists of a flap cut in the leather to cover a hole in the piston.
The organ blower was a tip printed in the Good Wood Working magazine (July 1994)
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Robbo3
Established Member
Robbo3
Established Member
An easy to make holder to stop your tools rolling off the lathe. Drill a line of holes in a batten then cut down the length. A batten underneath is used as a stop - or a pair to straddle the bed.
The tool handle was made from beech taken from a kneeling stool, hence the dowel tenons. I'll bet there's not another one like it.
The tool handle was made from beech taken from a kneeling stool, hence the dowel tenons. I'll bet there's not another one like it.
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SVB
Established Member
Great post. Thanks for taking the time to put this up. Perhaps the start of a really interesting thread.
I’ll take some photos may be but my tip is to buy a couple of cheap roller blinds to mount around the lathe. Then, when roughing etc and the chips are flying everywhere, you can pull them down to make a mess space and save having to clear up the whole workshop and every surface at the end.
I’ll take some photos may be but my tip is to buy a couple of cheap roller blinds to mount around the lathe. Then, when roughing etc and the chips are flying everywhere, you can pull them down to make a mess space and save having to clear up the whole workshop and every surface at the end.
Robbo3":3p9bodlb said:An easy to make holder to stop your tools rolling off the lathe. Drill a line of holes in a batten then cut down the length. A batten underneath is used as a stop - or a pair to straddle the bed.
The tool handle was made from beech taken from a kneeling stool, hence the dowel tenons. I'll bet there's not another one like it.
I need to make one of these!
Robbo3
Established Member
That was going to be a tip for the future but now that you've brought it up, I use roller blinds attached to the front of shelves to protect them from shavings & dust.SVB":2udpe12t said:
My main protection is a shower curtain surrounding the lathe on three sides. It's a snug fit for one person because of where it's positioned but I have no other fixing points for it. One of the downsides of using a concrete sectional garage as a workshop.
There is also another roller blind further back which I can lower if there are two of us in attendance.
Robbo3
Established Member
Chuck Removal Wedges.
Although called chuck removal wedges they are ideal for many other jobs such as removing the tips from a live centre where the gap is too small even for the supplied removal tool.
Of course they are excellent for removing tight morse taper items in the lathe or pillar drill. Available in 1,2 & 3 Morse Taper sizes.
- http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue ... dges---NEW
Although called chuck removal wedges they are ideal for many other jobs such as removing the tips from a live centre where the gap is too small even for the supplied removal tool.
Of course they are excellent for removing tight morse taper items in the lathe or pillar drill. Available in 1,2 & 3 Morse Taper sizes.
- http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue ... dges---NEW
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Robbo3
Established Member
Sanding disk made from Corian (thanks Chrispy). Stepped so that it fits whichever chuck happens to be in use at the time. A self stick velcro pad enables standard 3" hook & loop disks to be used & swapped easily.
To clean the disks, laying on the bed is a tube of clear silicone which has been allowed to solidify. I use it as it is but there's no reason why it couldn't be cut into smaller pieces.
To clean the disks, laying on the bed is a tube of clear silicone which has been allowed to solidify. I use it as it is but there's no reason why it couldn't be cut into smaller pieces.
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Robbo3
Established Member
Use cling film to stop wood drying out too quickly.
I call this mini pallet wrap but it can be called various names. 10 rolls & an applicator are £14 on ebay. I've been using these for about 3 years & I'm only on my third roll.
Mini pallet wrap
I call this mini pallet wrap but it can be called various names. 10 rolls & an applicator are £14 on ebay. I've been using these for about 3 years & I'm only on my third roll.
Mini pallet wrap
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Lazurus
Established Member
I use lubricating wax on all steel surfaces and my tools and chucks to keep rust at bay over the damp months, coupled with a cheap second hand de humidifier, workshop stays damp and rust free. Cheap second hand curtains from a charity shop easily hung around work space again to catch chips and debris. A mechanics garage trolley keeps all the frequently used stuff right beside me and is easy to wheel out of the way when not required, also gives additional storage space. Old washing machine motor transformed into a 10" disk sander, been using this for 18 years and still going strong. And have just discovered Yorkshire Grit, brilliant stuff....... =D>
Robbo3
Established Member
Brushes.
I've started using synthetic brushes for applying sanding sealer, whether acrylic, cellulose or shellac, mainly because I've found that not only are they are easier to clean than other types but they are usable between sessions & of course they are cheap.
If I used lots of sanding sealer, I would hot melt glue a brush into the lid of the container.
I've started using synthetic brushes for applying sanding sealer, whether acrylic, cellulose or shellac, mainly because I've found that not only are they are easier to clean than other types but they are usable between sessions & of course they are cheap.
If I used lots of sanding sealer, I would hot melt glue a brush into the lid of the container.
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Robbo3
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Magnets
I use magnets all over the workshop. On the tail stock are a 150mm rule, a set of dial calipers, (they require a larger magnet because of their weight). A paintbrush with embedded magnets in both sides of the handle, because it can be hung from anything metal & it normally lives on the drill press. Another paintbrush lives on a head stock magnet & the pencil has a countersunk magnet screwed onto its end ... so that it never gets lost in the shavings.
All the magnets are attached with a spot of superglue so that they stay put & don't come away with the tool.
I use magnets all over the workshop. On the tail stock are a 150mm rule, a set of dial calipers, (they require a larger magnet because of their weight). A paintbrush with embedded magnets in both sides of the handle, because it can be hung from anything metal & it normally lives on the drill press. Another paintbrush lives on a head stock magnet & the pencil has a countersunk magnet screwed onto its end ... so that it never gets lost in the shavings.
All the magnets are attached with a spot of superglue so that they stay put & don't come away with the tool.
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Robbo3
Established Member
Dial Calipers
Very useful for accurate measurement especially if your eyesight isn't as good as it used to be.
The bottom two measure 10mm for one turn of the needle with each small mark being one tenth of a millimetre - more than accurate enough for any type of woodwork. The nylon ones are for general use & the metal ones for use on the lathe. One word of warning, round off the sharp corners of the internal legs if you use them on rotating wood.
The top pair measure in 64ths for the odd time when I need imperial & saves making a mistake with the size conversion.
The second pair from the top measure 5mm per rotation, which although more accurate, you have to take great care to see if the needle is in the 0-5 or 6-10 range.
Very useful for accurate measurement especially if your eyesight isn't as good as it used to be.
The bottom two measure 10mm for one turn of the needle with each small mark being one tenth of a millimetre - more than accurate enough for any type of woodwork. The nylon ones are for general use & the metal ones for use on the lathe. One word of warning, round off the sharp corners of the internal legs if you use them on rotating wood.
The top pair measure in 64ths for the odd time when I need imperial & saves making a mistake with the size conversion.
The second pair from the top measure 5mm per rotation, which although more accurate, you have to take great care to see if the needle is in the 0-5 or 6-10 range.
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Robbo3
Established Member
Not so much to do with wood turning but helpful if you get stuck.
Wing nut socket.
The core of the socket has to be wide enough to accept the centre of the wingnut. I think this was 13mm. Cut the slots with a hacksaw or angle grinder.
Of course you could use a pair of pliers but sometimes there's not enough room or the nuts may be rusted solid, as toilet seat bolts sometimes are, The socket allows much more torque.
BTW, I didn't sacrifice one from my best socket set, I bought it specially.
Wing nut socket.
The core of the socket has to be wide enough to accept the centre of the wingnut. I think this was 13mm. Cut the slots with a hacksaw or angle grinder.
Of course you could use a pair of pliers but sometimes there's not enough room or the nuts may be rusted solid, as toilet seat bolts sometimes are, The socket allows much more torque.
BTW, I didn't sacrifice one from my best socket set, I bought it specially.
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Robbo3
Established Member
As I get older I no longer have the feel or the strength of grip that I used to have. To that end I have a selection of holding devices along with ordinary/long nose pliers & mole grips. Now I can grip a thread to wire brush it (wire brush fitted to grinder) or chamfer the end or even shorten it.
The third pair from the left are sold as stainless steel fishing pliers but are useful because of the narrowness of the blades & the right hand pair are for seperating split links.
I also have (not in photo) a small length of 6mm thick metal bar which has been drilled & tapped from M3 to M10. Makes holding a bolt to cut it to length so much easier. If it protrudes too far, thread a nut on first & use it to lock the bolt against the bar.
The third pair from the left are sold as stainless steel fishing pliers but are useful because of the narrowness of the blades & the right hand pair are for seperating split links.
I also have (not in photo) a small length of 6mm thick metal bar which has been drilled & tapped from M3 to M10. Makes holding a bolt to cut it to length so much easier. If it protrudes too far, thread a nut on first & use it to lock the bolt against the bar.
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gregmcateer
Established Member
Awesome set of hints and tips, R.
Thanks for sharing them
Thanks for sharing them
Robbo3
Established Member
Your welcome.
It's all about sharing knowledge.
It's all about sharing knowledge.
Kujo
New member
Post should be called Woodworking Life Hacks. Going to be following.
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