Tips for re painting walls.

[Mark18PLL]

Sorry i know its not woodworking but i just know someone on here will know more than me.

I am repainting my hallway, the walls have quite a lot of orange peel so i decided to sand them down first and fill any holes etc.

I will be re painting with Armstead Trade Durable Matt (light grey) and using Wooster Pro 3/16" short pile roller.

With the wall being sanded it has brought a few spots of plaster back (not many) and has revealed some of the darker paint underneath, would you recommend undercoating it all or just the bare plaster or just paint over and not undercoat?

I have attached a picture to give you an idea, as i mentioned most of the brown is the paint underneath.

Thanks
Mark

 

[Spectric]

You could give it all a coat of Zinsser Bin so you have a good base or if using a waterbased top then look at Zinsser 123.

 

[Cabinetman]

You could give it all a coat of Zinsser Bin so you have a good base or if using a waterbased top then look at Zinsser 123.

That stuff is quite expensive Roy, yes it’s very good I use it but I think if he just goes over with a small brush and dabs the brown bits first with the paint he’s going to be using and then go over the whole wall it will be fine.
Personally I don’t like the finish you get from a roller even a fine one, I don’t do a lot of decorating so I don’t mind it taking a little bit longer with a paint pad.Ian

 

[Spectric]

Personally I don’t like the finish you get from a roller even a fine one, I don’t do a lot of decorating so I don’t mind it taking a little bit longer with a paint pad.Ian

That is not cheap but I like to do a job once and walk away so products like Zinsser may not be cheap but they give you peace of mind and I know decorators who always use this when involved with jobs where smoking has occured.

I know the effect, orange peel and what I do is apply with a decent roller but then lay off with a brush, some call it tipping off. Need a decent roller and brush, not stuff from the sheds but brands like Wooster. Picasso and Staalmaster, I was once sceptical about expensive brushes but now fully converted and relegated Hamiltons to outdoor stuff like fences and sheds.

shows the idea although on a sheet of steel.

https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=b...DCA0&uact=5#kpvalbx=_SA6pYK_TEvPIxgPD5ZKICA53 This is same on a door.

A good lay off brush Buy Staalmmester Brushes | Staalmeester One | Staalmeester UK or

Laying-off Brush but harder to source although these list it, ANZA Elite Pro Laying-Off Brush.

 

[Mark18PLL]

Thanks for the replies, what do you think of Arroworthy rollers? been looking at the Arroworthy Classic 1/4 nap.

 

[GerryT]

Sorry i know its not woodworking but i just know someone on here will know more than me.

I am repainting my hallway, the walls have quite a lot of orange peel so i decided to sand them down first and fill any holes etc.

I will be re painting with Armstead Trade Durable Matt (light grey) and using Wooster Pro 3/16" short pile roller.

With the wall being sanded it has brought a few spots of plaster back (not many) and has revealed some of the darker paint underneath, would you recommend undercoating it all or just the bare plaster or just paint over and not undercoat?

I have attached a picture to give you an idea, as i mentioned most of the brown is the paint underneath.

Thanks
Mark

With all respect to Roy or anyone else, I wouldn’t use Zinsser BIN, as its shellac based and not meant as a primer for big walls coverage and will stink your home out for a while.

From your photo it look as if the top coat is fairly stable on the wall and the patches are just a case of over sanding the slightly loose paint that was there before.
If any of the paint is flaking or loose around the patches then you could use Zinsser Peel Stop over those patches but only if loose or flaking.
If you felt that wall needs completely covered with some form of primer/stabiliser then I’d use Zinsser Gardz as it much more suitable for larger walls and takes paint really well.
The first coat may not look pretty over the top of Gardz and it may seem strange to apply but the second paint coat will improve quite a lot.

If the patches are tight and not peeling or loose then I’d just use a very slightly watered coat of your emulsion followed by a couple of straight coats .
Or give only the patches a cover followed by a couple of full coats.
Needless to say, get the wall as clean and free from residue as you can.
wash it and wash it again.

In many ways the less “fixes” you use the less problems you can have.

 

[Ollie78]

Sugar soap and a good rinse.
Sorts out any grease etc, also slightly keys the paint for a priming coat.

If you want to cover up stains you can use Tikkurila Otex, it will stick to everything nicely and is thick and solid white.

Ollie

 

[Spectric]

I think that is due to my age, brought up with everything that stank the house out for days, oil based paint with lead and loved the smell of putty. Even the paint I used on a vehicle contains arsenic so don't sand.

 

[Setch]

Make sure any bare plaster is given a mist coat of dilute emulsion (20-30% water) or it will peel off right back to bare plaster if you recoat it in the future. DAMHIK!

 

[cowtown_eric]

My first axiom is to use more light than will be normally hitting the walls...If it looks good under bright lights, it should look good under normal light.

I also use an LED flashlight against the wall to spot defects more easily- much better to find and fix before painting than after!

For sanding walls, if it's rough I use a ROS hooked up to my shop vac---minimal dust

Remember NO ROLLER MARKS ALLOWED and I always do my finish roll in the same direction to give an even roller texture.

Eric