Tips and tools for filing /setting saws ?

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Yep. Well worked out. Actually I've had the saw for about 15 years and now it has become my dedicated saw for that purpose. Quite a fancy saw for cutting a few slots in a fretboard but I haven't be overly impressed with some of the commercial offerings.
 
ivan":2688e9jd said:
Most helpful advice I ever found was in an early FW mag. Make a handle for the point (far end) of the file, and do it thus:

Cut yourself a matchbox sized slip of wood, but a bit thinner. Drill a hole in the middle of the striking surface (if it was a matchbox) small enough to hold the point of the file firmly. Cut through the block making sure you clip off 20% of the hole, at an angle (more later) Glue block back together; X section of hole now looks something like this C/ . When you push in the file, one flat of the file is aligned by the flat side of the hole. Arrange to cut the block at the correct angle so that when block is held horizontally, file cuts tooth at correct angle.

Yes - that's on Pete Taran's site.

Never got on with it, myself, which led to my "pointer thingy", derived from Robert Wearing's design.

BugBear
 
MIGNAL":1fsmh1i3 said:
Quite a fancy saw for cutting a few slots in a fretboard but I haven't be overly impressed with some of the commercial offerings.
Agree. I have more than a couple of DT saws and so should really do the same. I'm using a resharpened LMI at the mo, but when Master Wenzloff eventually reaches somewhere near the bottom of his custom orders pile, there'll be something rather nicer.
Cheers
 
Right - read the review of good service on another thread so thought I'd try Workshop heaven for saw files (and a few other things...). Got a couple but it seems like it is hard to find ones above 5tpi - what would you use for 3 tpi rip saw for example ?

Anyway - when they come I'll give it a go.

Also found vallorbe and nicholson saw files on Axminster but thought that the WSHeaven ones by Bahco looked a little better ?!

Anyone got any other places to get saw files from ?
Ed
 
D112_P1010040.jpg


No one told me they bred.... Was going to use the one at the top of the picture for a rip (6 tpi) and the one at the bottom (D7) for a cross cut (8 tpi).

Any thoughts on how best to use the middle one ? It's a S&J 7 tpi. Cross or rip ? Leave it at 7 tpi or re-profile it to another tpi ? What would be most useful ?

Think that's me with saws now. Best get on with the rest of the plumbing....

Ed
 
Sharpening saws and especially those over 15 TPI is not easy.
It takes a lot of practise and skill to get it right and to look right.

I made the Brent Beach tool which turned out to be more trouble than its worth:
Saw-sharp-3.jpg
.

I even tried using hacksaw blades as a template but that was not entirely successful too

Saw-sharp-2.jpg


In the end I am afraid I sent it to Ian at Dragon Saws who made a lovely job

Willey-Saw-Ren.jpg


This is what is was like before a bit of TLC:

willey2.jpg


Have not given up on sharpening but going to practise on some old 8TPI Handsaws first before I touch my Gramercys or Wenzloffs!! :)

Rod
 
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