Timber for drawer sides and backs?

UKworkshop.co.uk

Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Come on not the Kiln vs Aired again. Do a search and we can talk about other things!

I used some AWO, but it wasn't AWO as they didn't do that but the stuff they gave me was very nice, can't remember if it was European oak now but it was lovely. Got a huge plank in the shop waiting to be planned up for a serving tray as well.
 
I agree with Jacob. I might consider finding an old 'utility-furniture' sideboard. A good source of oak you can recycle. You could rub joint strips to the bottom edges of the drawer-linings, before you size the stock. That way you will save money, but still have the durability of oak against oak. But is a 100 years long enough? I think so.

Also try to plan for English oak next time. Even when sawn through and through, it's by far the better timber, works well and the scent of it is a bit intoxicating to me. (I always was a bit wide of the norm though!) .

Regards
John :D
 
Chems":2kloaaf2 said:
Come on not the Kiln vs Aired again. Do a search and we can talk about other things!

Oddly enough Chems, I was sort of thinking, "Oh no, not the drawer side material debate yet again".

I'm interested to see how eoin sets out his argument for air dried material always being superior to kiln dried material for drawer parts.

I already know all the options regarding drawer side material choices, in the same way that I probably already know all the pluses and minuses regarding air dried versus kiln dried wood; I am still interested to see how other woodworkers justify a bald statement that initially lacks any reason to support it. Slainte.
 
Sgian Dubh":2ohf2ku7 said:
I already know all the options regarding drawer side material choices, in the same way that I probably already know all the pluses and minuses regarding air dried versus kiln dried wood; I am still interested to see how other woodworkers justify a bald statement that initially lacks any reason to support it. Slainte.
Richard, I can't put an objective slant to this as I'm not party to all the technicalities of KvsA dried timber. For me, and this ia a personal view, air dried timber is just more pleasant to us. It's very difficult to quantify for me...it is just better. I'm doing a couple of projects at the moment in air dried oak (I know as I saw it in stick outside) which is fabulous stuff to use, it has none of the 'carrotyness' that you sometimes find with kilned material.
That said, I've probably done stuff in kilned material (and not realised it's been kilned) which has also been good to use (American Cherry is decent when kilned) but my view has probably been jaded by using kilned AWO which I don't like :evil: - Rob
 
Definately oak for the drawer sides. Something I've been doing to get round the inevitable cupping(not to mention the wastage) when reduceing stock down from 25mm to 8 to 12mm for sides is a Robert Inghram technique. Using 2 inch stock(PAR), rip off strips of approx 14mm thickness and then edgejoint them to produce your drawer side. The growth rings will be more or less in a quartersawn fashion and the width of the drawer is constructed of narrow pieces of wood so movement will be minimal. Once edge jointed you can resurface and thickness the timber down to your final thickness. More timeconsuming I know but the result is a very stable drawer side.
 
Quite recently I finished up a fabulous supply of QS oak drawer side material I got a few years ago from one of those architectural salvage places. It was said to be some ancient Belgian skirting board. Apart from a few nail holes, it couldn't have been better. It was thick enough to resaw and it didn't move at all when sliced in half.

I'm not sure if the yard knew it was oak even but as it was covered in a heavy varnish with nails sticking out of it, it looked awful. Mind you, the fact that they were cut square nails ought to have provoked a bit of curiosity I reckon!
 
waterhead37":4t1zoz08 said:
Quite recently I finished up a fabulous supply of QS oak drawer side material I got a few years ago from one of those architectural salvage places. It was said to be some ancient Belgian skirting board. Apart from a few nail holes, it couldn't have been better. It was thick enough to resaw and it didn't move at all when sliced in half.

I'm not sure if the yard knew it was oak even but as it was covered in a heavy varnish with nails sticking out of it, it looked awful. Mind you, the fact that they were cut square nails ought to have provoked a bit of curiosity I reckon!
If you were using it for drawer sides Chris, my guess is that you only needed shortish lengths and so could work round the nail holes - Rob
 
Sgian Dubh":2556t5h8 said:
I probably already know all the pluses and minuses regarding air dried versus kiln dried wood

It would be helpful if you could give us a few pointers, Richard. I've certainly had problems with kiln dried wood - case hardening and splits developing (which only tend to show up when you start working the wood).

For me it's a case of once bitten twice shy. I think the problem for us hobby woodworkers is that we have no way of knowing how well the kiln drying process has been carried out. I've also found that some woodyards sell kiln dried wood which they've stored in damp conditions, which rather defeats the object. Whenever possible I try to use air dried or reclaimed wood as that seems to result in fewer problems.

Cheers :wink:

Paul
 
Sgian Dubh":2qt7w96v said:
Chems":2qt7w96v said:
Come on not the Kiln vs Aired again. Do a search and we can talk about other things!

Oddly enough Chems, I was sort of thinking, "Oh no, not the drawer side material debate yet again".

I've obviously not been around long enough as I don't think I've come across that one before actually!
 
OPJ":225hk4mz said:
simuk":225hk4mz said:
Why is AWO horrible stuff & what make British better?

Well, I don't know about Jacob but I prefer the grain in English oak; it's got much more character and that can make a big difference in your work. European oak though, is quite bland and almost straight-grained at times, which makes it better suited to joinery work. I don't think American oak has as much character and, certainly, red oak isn't as durable as others.


Thanks, interesting
 
Chems":355nihym said:
I've obviously not been around long enough as I don't think I've come across that one before actually!

I don't think it was that long ago that we were debating this on the forum... I'm sure the last time was only just before Christmas! :D
 
woodbloke":ecbi9b2k said:
Richard, I can't put an objective slant to this as I'm not party to all the technicalities of KvsA dried timber. For me, and this ia a personal view, air dried timber is just more pleasant to us. It's very difficult to quantify for me...it is just better. I'm doing a couple of projects at the moment in air dried oak (I know as I saw it in stick outside) which is fabulous stuff to use, it has none of the 'carrotyness' that you sometimes find with kilned material.
That said, I've probably done stuff in kilned material (and not realised it's been kilned) which has also been good to use (American Cherry is decent when kilned) but my view has probably been jaded by using kilned AWO which I don't like - Rob

It looks like eoin isn't going to set out his reasons for saying that air dried timber is best. So I'll respond to your post Rob.

It's my experience that you can only say that one type of dried wood is better than the other in certain circumstances. For example we've just had a project go through the workshop to build furniture for outside use. Generally spreaking it makes sense to use air dried stock here because air dried stock will never dry below about 18% MC in this country unless it's dried in covered sheds, and it's not always. Outdoor furniture is never likely to get much below this sort of moisture content either, and frequently will be above 20% or 25% MC.

Similarly if you are building furniture or fittings for museum archives and storage facilities where conditions are kept particularly dry on purpose it's a sensible choice to make these items out of kiln dried stock so that shrinkage is kept to a minimum.

I have come across badly air dried wood, just as I've been sold badly kiln dried stuff. There's a myth out there that all drying problems are induced by the kilning process. They're not as I've come across case hardened air dried wood as well as case hardened kilned stock.

It's often cited that air dried stock is kinder on tools and easier to work, and generally that is the case. Secondly, many put forward the argument that air dried wood has a greater range of colour than kiln dried material, and that too is often the case. However, to set against that those colours are often fugitive and I've made pieces of furniture using, for example, various walnuts. Usually, after about a year or two years it's hard to tell the difference in colour between air dried and kiln dried material.

Air dried material is more likely to bring unwanted pests into your workshop, eg, common furniture beetle and powder post beetle. The kilning process kills these pests, but it's true that the pests could attack the wood, particularly the sapwood, later on.

Kiln drying hardens and stiffens the wood to a greater extent than air drying-- explaining why it's harder to work than air dried stuff, see above. This is a major disadvantage if you are steam bending the wood, but it is an advantage where strength is an issue. Kiln drying, because it dries the wood to a lower MC than air drying will reveal what may be unacceptable warping in wood in a finished furniture item. You can reject it before you use it whereas you won't find out the problem until after the piece is made with the air dried material. Kilning therefore helps to stabilise the wood because it causes the cells to distort as much they are going to distort.

If you have two samples of the same wood species, one air dried down to 15% MC and one kiln dried to 7% MC and they are both at, say, 15% MC you can assume the kiln dried material has gained moisture, and the air dried stuff has never been below 15%. If you were to set about conditioning both these pieces of wood to, let's say, about 8% MC, through stickering them up inside in a warm dry spot, (eg, your house) you'll find the kiln dried stuff dries out a lot quicker than the air dried material.

These are just some of the differences between air dried material and kiln dried material. It's my experience and knowledge that says to me that it's not good advice to simply say one is always better than the other. The characteristics of air dried material are somewhat different to the characteristics of kiln dried stuff. Neither is really better than the other, but there are circumstances where the use of one is a better choice than the other.

I think it's generally best to add context and reason for any advice given. At least this way it gives the reader something solid to chew on and learn from. Unsubstantiated opinion on factual subjects doesn't really add anything useful to a discussion, and may even hinder learning. Slainte.
 
waterhead37":2ps9mr7j said:
IMHO, many people make drawer sides far too thick and 10 mm is plenty for almost any piece of furniture - I tend to shoot for 8mm myself. If the drawers are wide, you will likely need muntins anyway.

I too like to have thinner drawer sides than "normal". I'm just making one with 9mm sides/back, sapele.

What depth would you put the groove for the base in this?
 

Latest posts

Back
Top